Home Design Philosophy
Kathy Evans
5 years ago
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kriii
5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
Methodology of Design: Both Philosophy and Application
Comments (18)Flower is fleeting! There are some great workhorse plants, but for the most part, blooms are a nice spice that come--then go. You can design different parts of a garden to have a peak season--a month to 6 weeks where they are glorious, then fade into the background. Or you can put a bunch of workhorses in a garden and get pretty constant solid bloom from late March until September or later--but then you're relying on some spring ephemerals plus some very, very familiar perennials and annuals. For someone who clearly wants a BLOOMING border, this is often the best solution. Or you can mix in a foundation of workhorses and a number of more seasonal plants, so that you don't a riot of bloom, necessarily, but there's always something going on. This is what I tend to do. In my personal gardens, flowers are the flourish, or the spice--not even the icing, really, because they just aren't that dominant. (Most of my house is in shade, so I don't really have a choice...) For the most part, I concentrate on the FOLIAGE. Sometimes, I don't even care what color things bloom, especially in my shade gardens, because the blooms will so often be so far apart and inconspicuous compared to the foliage! I like to concentrate on 1) COLOR of foliage, not bloom. The color of foliage plays an enormous role in the rhythm of a bed. I've found that most beds can support 3 major colors. The most common colors are green (obviously)--from almost black to a light true green, chartreuse, purple (only works in shade directly against another color), silver/white, peach/red/orange, and blue. One color will be green--the other two depend on the situation! I started with a Japanese painted fern under my tree bed that I'm starting this year. Purple heurchera looks GREAT, and so do the pale-edged hostas (which are more white than gold). But the true chartreuse citronelle heuchera that I tried looks HORRIFIC, and it's going to have to make room for a more silvery heurchera to set off the purple one (purple with nothing around it disappears in shade and just looks drab). 2) The FORM of the plants--are they spiky? Mounding? Flat-topped groundcovers? Climbing? You can get a LOT of mileage out of conscious repetition and contrast, both. 4) The TEXTURE of the leaves--not the whole plant, but the individual leaves. Big, fat round leaves can be echoed in big, fat strappy leaves and contrasted against ferny leaves, etc. If you pay attention to everything BUT the flowers, you can actually get some pretty awesome results. If you pay attention to just the flowers, the result usually disappoint. My front bed I started right after I moved here. I wasn't familiar with growing ANYTHING in this region (seriously, it was the first time I ever saw blooming azaleas and hydrangeas), so I took the "buy what's on clearance, throw it in the ground, see what the deer don't eat to the ground, and learn about the plants" approach. :-) For my main curb garden, which is only 35' wide (pie-shaped lot), I wanted an informal mixed shrub border to screen the house from all the cars--and headlights--that turn around in the cul-de-sac. I was completely unfamiliar with MOST of the shrubs here at that time, so I just bought stuff that looked nice and was under $5 and looked like it'd get the right size. My rules were about form and color. I got 1/2 green (with some with chartreuse accents), 1/4 chartreuse, and 1/4 purple. I put tiny leaves next to big leaves, blobs next to spikes, and I'm still in the process of figuring out what other workhorse perennials I can fill the bare spaces with (in amongst the shrubs). Sand cherries by themselves are boring and tend to get leggy--as an accent in front of a wall of green behind a chartreuse-tinged arb, they really look great. People keep asking me what they are, and no one believes me that they're the same plants as you see all the time next to the highway. Between the *yawn* spireas, the cliched knockout rose, and the altheas, I actually do have *something in bloom all the time, pretty much by accident, but it's the colors and shapes of the foliage that are arresting. I let it go for a few years, to see how it would fill out, and now I REALLY need to do some refining at various points, but I've had tons of people in the neighborhood tell me how much they love the garden and how happy it makes them to see it at the end of the street. I've had people ask me to design things for them, and a few people have said that I should be designing professionally. (Um, NO. Not up to that! I STILL don't have a good grasp on what really does and doesn't do well here--I've tried 5 different plants in one spot on the back, and they all die or get eaten within the year--and I can't quite think as clearly in all four dimensions as I'd want to be able to before setting out a shingle. And I'm terrified of pruning most bushes wrong. But it's flattering, nevertheless.)...See MoreLeonardo's philosophy- willing to pay for thinking
Comments (25)As for the treasure hunt, we've done that including finding Miss Ethel, our best find. At 99 years old she is our best resource. Our county did not exist as such when the farm was built and where the records were kept - of course it burned at some point....We talk to Miss E often and record all conversations to help OUR memory! This was once a dairy farm where the barn and milk house were the priority. The house has a symmetrical Georgian layout and is large for the time, 3500 Square feet. As in the sexist thread: the floorplan resembles male parts- 2 turrets with a rectangle porch between and a rectangle going straight back...!!Funny though, like true to form farmers, the upstairs had flat plain molding and lower ceilings. Anyway, it was a working farm without slaves so it may never have had much in the way of formal plantings but I want to be repectful. DH is ordering Saypoints reccomendations as we speak!! They sound wonderful. I know the trees may not have been the right decisions, but the 'tree hugger' in me as the DH refers too, just can't cut something down that old unless it is diseased....plus it's 75' away from the house! This is a learning process and I thank you for letting me 'guinea pig' you. Now I'll be more prepared!! So I call it a *base plan*-guess that does make more sense. Here's a picture. The Georgian floor plans has Victorian details. The Big addition was done by one of the area's freed slaves around turn of the century. Here is a link that might be useful:...See MorePhilosophy of Cold Frame
Comments (2)I currently have tomatoes and peppers in a cold frame. The seeds started indoors, and they moved out after about a week of development. They did not yet have their first set of true leaves when I did this. The ambient outdoor temp is around 45-60 degrees during the day. On sunny days with a higher temp, I open the cold frame up and let them soak in the sun...on colder days I keep the lids (old storm windows) down all the way. On moderate days or cloudy days, I open the windows just a crack (about 2 inches). My plants have been spending the days outside, and the nights in my laundry room, roughly 55-60 degrees at night, as nighttime temps have been dropping into the 30's still, and a few nights in the mid-20s. My plants are short and stocky, having been exposed to such cool temps, their growth rate is slow. They all have their first set of leaves, but none have a second yet. In the next few days the overnight low is not expected to be below 40, so they will spend the night outdoors for the next week, but still inside the cold frame. Cold frame philosophy, daytime temps are warm enough to keep the plants happy with the sunlight. Nighttime temps can fall to just a few degrees above the outside ambient temp. Unless you do a great job of insulating the frame, you will lose a lot of heat gained during the day, and you won't want to keep your plants outside at night. This in and out can get tedious, but if you love your plants, it's worth it! Cold frame construction: I used a wood pallet as the base, and a deconstructed wood pallet for scrap wood for the sides. The top (about a 30 degree angle downward) is two old storm windows. You can use just about any clear material as the top. Make sure that you can open it up though, as it can bake the plants on a sunny day!...See MoreCottage Gardening philosophy?
Comments (12)In reference to floweryearth's question, I wish I was that cool, but no. My real name is Darlene and my childhood best friend was trying to rhyme something with my name-mind you we were 8 at the time. I have realized that I would prefer a stroll through my garden to see what is in bloom instead of avoiding areas entirely. I have a pretty good sized lot (1/4 acre), so I have some room to be creative. I've been dreaming of this garden I am planning for 6 years. I started out with a little porch garden on a postage stamp slab outside my first apartment, then later had a rental house where I just filled in the holes. I learned so much from that house, so it makes me that much more intensive about planning. Practical things, like how to get a wheel barrel successfully across a yard without going through an obstacle course. As for time, energy, and money--I don't have any children and I've just graduated from college after 7 years studying for my horticulture degree, I've got nothing but time now...finally! I'm one of those gardening nuts who is in their garden nearly everday, if just to deadhead or whatever, so that's not a problem. The money issue is interesting because recently I was hired by a top retail mail-order nursery and I get a 50% discount, so that helps. Having said all that, it makes my possibilities endless, but difficult to narrow down. I constantly become overwhelmed by the choices I have. It's great to have advice from all of you to help make these decisions. So thank you....See MoreMark Bischak, Architect
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