While a full walk-in is nice to have, if you only have room for a step-in or even just a reach-in pantry, I think they are fine...IMHO better than pantry cabinets. Mine is really a step-in and while I sometimes wish it were bigger, I didn't have the room for a bigger one w/o sacrificing counterspace and/or the appliances I wanted. 24" deep shelves are just too deep to keep well organized and to keep track of things. Even 18", IMO, are too deep. My step-in pantry is in the corner and is 41" on one side & 52" on the wall perpendicular to the first wall. I have a 24" wide door into the pantry. For a "straight" reach-in, I suggest a 5' wide x 2' deep with shelving 12" to 15" deep and one or two doors equal to 36" to 42" wide. For a "straight" step-in, I suggest a 5' wide x 4' deep with shelving 12" on the long side & 15" deep on one of the walls perpendicular to the first wall. That would give you some variety of shelf depth as well as leave some broom & hanging room. I suggest a door 30" or so wide and have the door be offset so it's closer to the short wall w/shelving to maximize the room on the other walls for brooms, mops, etc. Here are some useful threads. There may be additional/different recommendations so read all the threads and take what you think will work best for you. Good luck! My pantry: Sharb-inspired Pantry Done! Pantry thread in the Gallery: Pantry photos/pics of pantries Another, similar, thread: What size should a step-in corner pantry be?

My pantry /laundry room combination is 13' wide and 7' deep ... which sounds great, but in reality it's a study in inefficiency. The door is in the middle, which means 50% of my storage is behind the door -- so I have to walk around the door to reach things. I have a second door to the outside, which is not necessary. And with the washer/dryer and a freezer against the long wall, the walkway is too narrow. My pantry in my new house will be smaller ... but better laid out. The door will open against a flat wall (brooms will be stored behind the door). I'll have shelves against two walls ... one set of shelves will be to the ceiling, while the other set of shelves will have pegboard above them. Since I'm short, I'm leaving a spot by the door for my library-style kick stool. And the laundry will be elsewhere.

"I think the premise is to have pulls be *no more than* 1/3 the drawer length." I think designers invent "rules" like this just to have rules. I have never paid much attention to such nonsense. There is a limit, of course, to how wide pulls can be. You don't want them to interfere with drawer operation. Other than that, anything that looks good to you is just fine. As for variations in length, don't worry about it. There is no rule that all pulls have to be the same size, although the same general design is good. One thing about pantry pulls. You are probably going to be opening pantry doors with arms full of groceries, so a pull you can operate with an elbow, wrist, knee, or one pinky finger is a good choice.

@Sena01, yes that type of storage is exactly what I was thinking about for cookie sheets, but do you happen to have a vertical dimension for any of them? I wanted to see if I could fit them under the wall oven without its being too high. The mixer lift…I think probably not; it’s not that big a deal for me to lift it up on the island, as long as I have a cabinet there to store it in. If I add up all the numbers on the south wall, I get 209, at least if I added correctly. There are a couple of places where I sort of randomly put in 2” (like around the fridge) because I wasn’t sure if those sidewalls would need extra reinforcing. @Joseph Babcock, you are probably right about the position of the sink, but I really dislike them in islands (I know this is a personal foible.) plus I truly use all the available space on the island when I am baking, especially Christmas cookies and I can see the back yard from the sink’s current position.. When the oven door is down & I’m taking something out of the oven, I just have to pívot to my left and the island is right there for hot things. Same applies to the microwave, situated above the oven. Since the front door is on the same side of the house as the garage door/back hall and we have no young children at home, that “back” opening to the kitchen only gets used when Mike and I are bringing in groceries, but I can see how it might be a problem if more people lived here. @Patricia Colwell Consulting: thank you for your advice. I did not realize that Houzzers such as yourself would think that my previous specific questions on lighting placement and vent adaptation to a vaulted ceiling would be considered as the same subject as the oven height and cabinet layout, although you are certainly correct in that it is the same kitchen. My apologies. I perhaps erroneously assumed that the title of the former posts would prevent anyone from reading a separate question further down in the comments. I created the drawings posted, not a cabinet designer, so if you want to blame someone for faulty design, please feel free to blame me. This is only the second time in my life that I have done it. I realize that some people prefer their spices in drawers; I prefer mine at eye level in an upper cabinet. I used to have my oils in a narrow upper cabinet by the cooktop, but with the larger hood, I’m not sure that’s possible; I’ll look again. I think I allowed 4” between the hood & upper cabinets, but I would have liked 2”. I’m not sure how narrow cabinets or drawers can be before they look “off”. As it is, the difference in height between the uppers and lowers seems off-balance me, although that seems to be the style. The space in the middle of the kitchen has worked well for me when I have had multiple people cooking or setting out, as in community Christmas cookie baking and potluck dinners. I would probably feel differently were I the only cook in the kitchen or if I had’t lived with U-shaped kitchens most of my life. I thought I had drawn mostly drawers on the lowers, but perhaps that wasn’t clear or I got confused at the end about how many drawers versus cabinets to have. I need at least a couple of lower cabinets for the tall stand mixer, iced tea jar, and tall dry dog food containers. And maybe for the slow cooker and the tall stock pot? The induction cooktop specified no drawers under it…seemed weird to me. I don’t know if I drew the drawer under the oven tall enough for cookie sheets (14 x 17) but I know that I want the oven high enough so that I don’t have to bend over for the middle rack. Finally, although you are undoubtedly right about the wisdom of hiring a kitchen designer, between the contractor charging triple what insurance allows, having had to replace my car (totaled by Ian’s flooding) and a failed (but unfortunately very expensive) contract with a designer—not a cabinet salesperson, by the way—I don’t feel that I can risk any more. Right now, we have just gotten drywall. I need to come up with a kitchen plan because even if I turn it in tomorrow, we won’t get it until mid-June. I understand that what I end up with may not be a kitchen designer’s ideal, but I am working under constraints—on a slab that local plumbers have advised not to rip up for plumbing changes, with a basic layout that should its footprint change much would involve ripping out and replacing the tile throughout most of the open-plan house, and I’m trying to get back in our house before the next hurricane season starts at the end of June. Any help in doing that is much appreciated.