Hi All, I used Penn State extension calculator to determine the sq ft i would need to accept the downspout water based on roof size, soil type and average rainfall - that was how I came up with the initial plan of a 10 ft wide recessed area. Phase 1 - Goal - Stop melting roof snow from creating icy pond on walkway and street sidewalk as first step in overall plan redirect downspout and improve curb appeal. We dug a 50ft x 4ft x 6 in recessed area, 0.6 in rain tested it. The troth was filled, with overflow onto the lawn, a bit over the sidewalk and ponding between it and the berm. Prior to the troth overflow the sidewalk to the berm was not ponding. Pointing to this as the source of the icy problem. Phase 2 Based on reactions to prior mock ups, i wanted dark stone or mulch to ground the bldg, a subtle safe walkway from the emergency door (the back of the building faces the street), a rain garden to be part dryriver bed, part plants and part graded lawn. Below is a draft, not shown isgrading from dry river bed out 6 additional ft across from left to right. The software I used has limited colors, river rock will be lighted than shown. Additional plants will be added. For Phase 1 I would do the river rock and gravel right around it, and revamp the downspouts. All and any advise welcome!

awm, thank you! Our house isn't Architectually Important or anything, but I really love it. And I totally agree about split-levels. They get a bad rap, but when they're done right, they're very interesting. I'm so thankful that the previous owners did such a nice job on the addition - it really works with the flow of the house in a very seamless way. Although the cosmetic details aren't my thing, the overall flow really enhances the house. So it sounds like the consensus is to not do flagstone in the breakfast room, and to use the same flooring in the LR/DR, kitchen, entry and breakfast room - perhaps with the exception of a stone area in the entry. Any votes for trying to recreate the original flooring in the kitchen and entry - a mosaic tile? These are the original tiles that I've dug out from under the edges of the existing flooring. (yes, I go on "fact-finding" missions in my own house. I think of it as domestic archaeology!): To be clear - I wouldn't do the same colors - I'd use a mosaic tile but in a different colorway. I'm pretty sure I don't want to do this, but the purist in me thinks it could be interesting. Thoughts? Too weird? Too impractical?

I think it looks nice the way it is.

erika,,,light sand w/a 220-320 grit. wipe clean. use the shellac OR another wood sealer. You want to close off the pores. and, should the time come when you want to strip the paint, it will come off easily and not damage the wood. after the sealer or shellac is dry, lightly sand again w/the fine sandpaper to knock down any nibs. use your hand to feel it. wipe clean with mineral spirits. blow away any other dust particles with a shop vac or brush, wipe again w/tack cloth. you don't want any dust particles. lay the door on a sawhorse in a clean area. I always wet the floor where I' m painting so the little particles don't float up as you move. use a spray bottle mister and really dampen the area. buy the best brush. purdy or wooster,,,one meant for trim painting. you can get the budget pack w/the 3" and the angle 1.5" and save money. as for the paint, the color is on their paint chip. Classic Collection 1043D-chartreuse. they will also match any BM paint color. Here is my can for reference. also check to see if they have the Front Door Paint. I believe they do. check their website for that. and they will ship the paint. after the first coat, I use a wet/dry very fine grit sandpaper. wet it, and light go over the dry first coat. just enough to smooth out any brush marks. wipe w/wet paper towel or rag and dry. now you're ready for 2nd coat.