It occurred to me just now that you may not be familiar with even the basic guidelines set out by the NKBA (National Kitchen & Bath Association) for kitchen planning. These guidelines help create a starting point for kitchen planning. They are guidelines so they can be bent (or sometimes broken) but it may be helpful to know what they are. These are minimums, not maximums, and in some instances aren't always adequate. For instance, they recommend 12" to one side of a range or cook top and 15" on the other but that doesn't take into account today's larger sizes of everything from plates to pans. I understand your goal with your latest plan but I'm confused why you'd suggest modifying an existing lean-to when you seem to remain opposed to making any changes to existing windows. The latter will certainly be cheaper than the former and it likely won't require any permits, provided you use the existing headers. Rebuilding an existing structure and raising its roof will most certainly require that the structure be brought up to current code, necessitating additional costs and permitting. Your remodeling dollars will stretch farther with my Plans C and D than they would in your latest plan. Here's another to consider: This one does not require exterior changes and quite possibly won't need any changes to the existing walls between kitchen/dining area and hallway/living room. (I'm suggesting a wider entry into the dining area but that's not necessary to make this plan work.) I swapped the location of the sink and range so that you can keep the large opening between kitchen and LR. It will be similar to the photo you posted Thu, Mar 13, 14 at 15:07. I eliminated the extra cabs at the peninsula to give more room to the dining area and to provide an ample aisle between basement, back door and front hall. What is it about the PB Shayne table that you like? Is it its size, style or price? Have you sat at one like this? It's a great concept for small spaces because it provides additional storage but you sacrifice leg room. Not sure if you realize that. I designed the above with a 42" round table (seats 4) that extends to 60" (seats 6). That's a fairly common size so you should be able to find one that size that you like. I wouldn't go wider than that. While the space can accommodate a larger diameter round table, that's not the case when it's extended. You asked, "...how small of a table would be needed to also have peninsula seating?" Recommended minimum aisle width for back to back seating is 60". People do bend that guideline but even if you bent it to the point of breaking, I still don't think you have enough room for the Shayne table and peninsula seating. Here's why: Your proposed dining area is 10' 6' or 126" (wall to peninsula counter edge). I added 3" to the peninsula overhang to give you the recommended 15" seating overhang for a 36" counter. Yes, you can get by with less, but you don't gain much in the long run. I have yet to find stools shallow enough to go completely under a 12" overhang so the legs will stick out into the aisle. And that's assuming you go with backless stools. 126" - 36" aisle between wall & table (room to edge behind seated diners) - 49" Shayne table ----- 41" To get closer to the suggested 60" aisle width, you'd need to shrink your table width to 36" to 38" wide by 60" long. That would give you a 52" to 54" aisle between table and peninsula. Narrower than that and there isn't sufficient leg room for diners facing each other to sit comfortably, IMO. The only way I think that you have enough room for the Shayne table and peninsula seating is to go with a banquette bench along the window wall. 126" - 20" bench (table overlaps 24" deep bench by 4") - 49" -------- 57" All that said, I have to say that I'm not a fan of your latest plan. I'd hate not having any counter to the right of my sink. Heck, my oldest son's apartment has a larger kitchen - more counter and storage - than you've proposed in any of your plans for your home and it's a good bet that his place is much smaller than your house. I don't think you are maximizing your home's potential for a decent sized kitchen. Sorry if I sound scattered in my post. I'm recuperating from a bad head cold and my brain cells are still sluggish. Here is a link that might be useful: NKBA recommendations

With a French door, the landing space is best across the aisle, and your island will serve you well. We have trim around our fridge will helps it look more built in, which you'll have nice room for with the 40"...and I like having a bit of room so it's not such a tight fit to get in and out. The prep sink's existence makes a big difference in this layout, so it might be good to, not start a whole new post, but just post another image in this thread of the layout WITH the prep sink, so everyone will readily know what you intend. When you said 'on the end of the island opposite the stove,' I hope you meant across the aisle from the stove, and not at the opposite end of the island from the stove. I don't know what type of prep sink you plan, but with the narrow island, you might consider one that takes up the whole width across from the stove, and has the cutting board over part, so you get sink and prep space in one.

Since most of us on GW are from the USA, let's start by converting your measurements: 1 meter = 3.28' or 39.37" So, 8.3m = 27.23' or 326.77" 6m = 19.68' or 236.22" Other measurements: 1.3m = 51.18" 1.5m = 59.06" 2.4m = 94.49" 2.5m = 98.43" Sofa: 2.5m x 2.5m Pool Table: 2.4m x 1.3m +++ A few questions for you. Could you please provide additional information: Please post a sketch of the entire floor (unless this is the entire floor...if so, there must be stairs somewhere leading up and/or down to bedrooms, bathrooms, etc.). The sketch will help us see how the Kitchen relates to the rest of the home as well as how traffic flows in, around, and through the Kitchen and, in your case, the Dining and Family Rooms. It would be very helpful if you labeled all the dimensions in the room. The widths of each wall/window/door/doorway and the distances between each wall/window/door/doorway. Counting boxes can be prone to error, both counting the tiny boxes as well as estimating partial boxes. It's really better to provide the actual measurements. I'm posting a picture at the end of a sample layout that we usually ask for. Where are you flexible? What can/cannot change? If something cannot be changed, please tell us why (we may come up with ideas you hadn't thought of). Can walls/windows/doors/doorways be changed? If something cannot be changed, please locate it precisely on the layout (see the sample below). What appliances are you planning? Sizes? Where is your family entrance? In particular, where do you bring groceries into the home? What other doors & windows are there? Where are the bedrooms, etc.? Could you tell us about you and your family? It helps us understand what the space has to handle. E.g., is this an all-adult household (1 or 2 or more?) or do you also have children (or plan to have children)? If all adults, how many cook? Cleanup? Does cooking & cleaning up ever take place at the same time? . All of this and more is included in our Layout Help FAQ: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5500789/faq-how-do-i-ask-for-layout-help-what-information-should-i-include Also helpful: Ice.Water.Stone.Fire: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2699918/looking-for-layout-help-memorize-this-first Work Zones, What Are They Aisles Widths, Seating Overhangs, etc. Storage Planning

thank you @Jennifer K We don't have a door to the basement stairs now, so I suspect it's not code. That hall closet you see jutting into the laundry room is actually a "drop zone." I'm thinking something along the lines of the photo below. That's more valuable to me than a laundry sink. I have a slop sink in the basement, so while a laundry sink is a nice-to-have, I'm willing to sacrifice it, I think. I was worried about the lack of any kind of drop zone in the previous iterations. I do wonder if there's a more efficient laundry room layout, especially if we get rid of the window. I was having similar thoughts about the small walls against what's marked as the playroom and will look at that again. I agree with your point that the playroom is unlikely to stay that way. I give it another two years before it becomes an "adult" space. (Fingers crossed!) We'll never use it as a dining room because it's too small, though that's what it was when we bought the house. The fireplace can't be killed because our ancient steam heat uses the chimney. To your point on the foyer closet under the stairs: The floorplan is deceiving! It's actually a large, really useful closet with lots of coat hanging space on the right and shelves for winter gear. So that will stay as-is. Thank you!