Andres, Zone 6 gardener in southern Indiana here. I'm fairly new to gingers, but no one else has given you a reply, so I'll see if I can at least intiate some discussion. Gingers aren't hardy here, so I do all my growing in pots. I have had good luck with globba winitii. I let it get down to 50 degrees in the winter and it goes totally dormant and is slow to 'wake up' in the spring, but grows quickly and blooms every year. Unfortunately, no fragrance, but really cool blooms. I also have several hedychiums in five-gallon pots. They stay green at 50 degrees in the winter, but you can let them go completely dormant, too. The challenge in a short growing season like yours, will be bringing them from complete dormancy and into bloom before fall. I would try keeping them cool and alive (green) all winter, which speeds up the new shoots in the spring. The old shoots don't have to grow to keep the plant 'awake' and ready to go. I would recommend a rich potting soil, a big pot, and lots of heat and water in the sunniest place you have to get them to bloom. From what I have read, they don't like to be planted out and re-dug every season like cannas will tolerate, so I'd keep them in pots. I'd also start with big plants, if possible. Mail order sources vary from dry, very small rhizomes, to huge, growing plants. Small ones may take a whole extra year to bloom. It's hard to find a 'short' hedychium for a pot. My first one was 'Vanilla Ice', the more variegated form of 'Dr. Moy'. It was supposed to get 3' tall, but it got 6' tall in a pot and still had plenty of time to bloom before frost here. Our last frost is around April 15th and our first frost is around October 15th. I want to get 'Daniel Weeks' since it's supposed to be one of the earliest to flower, and that's the key for cold-weather growers. I have flowered Tai Monarch and Anne Bishop, also. I have several other new ones, but haven't grown them big enough to bloom yet. As far as alpinias, they are a challenge since they don't bloom on the current year's shoots. You have to grow the shoots tall one season and keep them healthy, happy, and growing, to bloom the next spring. I have bloomed alpinia zerumbet variegata (once!), but really just grow it for its foliage. I'd love to be able to grow some of the other alpinias, but am tight on space and it's hard to justify something that never blooms for me. Hope some of this helps. Hoping for a HOT summer here for lots of quick growth. Best of luck with your plants! Bob

I have two very good products you can try, Oakley. First, my go to cleaner is a Woolite oxyclean hybrid that works on almost anything. It’s called Woolote instant spot remover with Oxyclean. Spray unril the spot is really wet, wait a few min, rub in and then put a folded towel or microfiber cloth over the spot and put a really heavy book on it (or several books) weighing at least 15 or 20 lbs. Then stand on the book for a minute and leave the whole thing there for a couple of days. Then remove the book(s) and cloth and vacuum because the nap will need that after being smushed so. Honestly that works almost always. The other product I have is an aerosol spray cream called Spot Shot. Try it out on an inconspicuous area. It works a different way. I like the first method best for cleaning /removing stains. But if you have an old stain you’ve already tried to clean the Spot Shot is the one to try. My experience has been that two highly patterned or colored rugs in the same room haven’t worked for me. More pleasing is a combination of one very “loud” rug and one that is quieter, both in pattern and color. Regardless of how big a room is, two very distinctive rugs will suck all the oxygen out of the room—- unless by chance you find two that work so well they transcend that “rule.” I never did! Good luck, rugs are tough. i’ve always used them as the starting point of a design because I either already owned them or was struck by lightning and found one out of the blue without really looking. 😎 ETA both cleaning products available on Amazon.

The amount of work you need to get that area 'ready' for indoor flooring (other than carpet) is going to be big. To get anything down (other than carpet) you will need to make that 'flat and level'. So a good scrub (chemical + mechanical scrub) then allow to dry (what's the material used for the grout?). Then you can prime it and then go over that with some sort of cementatious material. Once that has gone down, you let it cure (1 day per 1mm of thickness). So long as you have a good cure and no spalting, you should be good to go for a thin floor. Of course carpet works really really well.

Here's some ideas https://www.lightingdirect.com/minka-lavery-ml-6767-1-light-wall-sconce-from-the-tofino-collection/p347788 https://www.lightingdirect.com/kichler-11310led-single-light-12-tall-led-outdoor-wall-sconce/p3706702 https://www.lightingdirect.com/kichler-6520-single-light-6-wide-bathroom-sconce-ada-compliant/p844450 https://www.lightingdirect.com/miseno-ml99484-led-outdoor-wall-sconce/p4027351 You need to look at the backplate width to see if it works in the space. I wouldn't worry about the stucco adding texture. They don't have to fit closely on the wall as they are not outside.