Thanks jruter and oylchick ! On the curtain. The rods I had they are tension rods. I just moved them to the ceiling. My ceiling is about 8.5 feet. The outer curtain is a set from ikea. Mostly decorative but if someone needed in the bathroom while someone was in the shower/bath they would provide privacy if closed. The inner is an 84 inch clear shower curtain. For me that was perfect it hits inside the 20/21 inch( cant remember which it is right now) about 6/7 inches in. Since this is a jetted tub it has an air intake that I didn't want it to cover so it wouldn't get caught if jets where on. This one is from bed bath and beyond. But I found a 96 inch online then measured an realized that covered the air intake so I didn't order it. Honestly, I googled 96 inch clear shower liner and extra long shower curtain liner to find it. The fan over the tub is also a light so I wasn't worried about light. I have hung all my curtains at the ceiling in the house and love the look. Tip most ikea curtains are 96 inches or 110 and they come with hem tape so they are a great source for full length curtains. But they didn't have a long shower liner. I will try to grab a picture later.

Thanks brickeyee & airsome. This is a rowhouse with a flat roof, and in our neighborhood pretty much everyone's condensor goes on the roof, b/c the backyards are small & you can't stick the noisy condensor right under your neighbor's window. That being said, not many have central A/C. Are condensors the same size for Unico as for conventional? So if my architect says we need steel beams to support the condensor in traditional model (I'm assuming both for weight & vibration?), would you expect we also need the steel for Unico? Regarding efficiency, I would have thought that the bigger vents of conventional systems would have wasted more cooling, vs. smaller tubes. Why the lesser efficiency from Unico? BTW, regarding the ground floor question from the OP, our architect is designing most cooling on the 3rd & 4th floors, some on the second (parlor) floor, and none on the garden level, which is slightly below ground. His experience is that the lower floor will stay comfortable if there's some cross-breeze. Thanks again.

Before you consider removing the tile, go to a reputable source and get facts. I don't think it is ever advisable to do it yourself. It will take10- 20-30-40 years to know if you've caused yourself harm, and many people never get sick. Not worth the risk! I was bothered that there was carpeting over hardwood in my living room when we moved in. Pulled it up, discovered the floor could not be restored. Perhaps you can think of your floor that way, that it cannot be restored. And, also, we had beautiful hardwood installed over asbestos lino in our kitchen and dining room. It is fine to do that. Cover, do not remove asbestos flooring.

So funny you should say that fuzzywuzzer. My main impetus for change is that blue gray clashes with the garden in summer. I love it in the winter against the mounds of white snow, but in summer - hate it. I'll get a sample of the Tudor. I'm sure I'll be getting a lot of samples. Last time, the front of the house looked like a patchwork quilt. Cyn427 - yes, I don't like the busy-ness either. By painting out the trim, I meant paint it the same colour as the body of the house. I'd love to change the trim colour to something creamier, but that would unfortuanately escalate the cost. trailrunner and lesterd, thank you so much for the links. They provide much inspiration. Even though I'm hoping for a slightly more modern look than the lovely painted ladies, it is wonderful to see what the colours look like on a house with siding. I'm on vacation this week and think I'll spend some time driving around the city looking for inspiration. Such a huge investment, I want to get it right this time.