Please help me decide - natural red oak vs. natural white oak.
B Merrit
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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red oak vs. swamp white oak
Comments (32)I planted a swamp white oak 18 months ago. Was just under 5' tall container, mail order from Forest Farm. I had read that swamp whites are slow growers, but mine has been very vigorous. I think buying small is a good strategy because the 10' B&B's at the garden centers will stare at your for a couple years before taking off and require a lot more watering. This guy will catch up with the bigger ones. I just watered mine weekly during the first summer, but did not water at all the second year. Generously mulched w/ leaf compost. Grew like crazy. I had to re-establish the central leader due to heavy deer browsing. After protecting, it easily put on 2-3 feet in height and a ton of density in the second summer. The trunk really bulked up quickly too. Looks like a winner. Fall color is better than expected, kind of a pale orange. In an area like NE Ohio, which is often pretty wet but also goes through some dry spells, swamp whites seem to thrive. Unlike a lot of oaks, they can supposedly handle wet or dry. Northern reds seem to prefer somewhat drier sites. Of course, Northern Reds are still very good trees. If you are dealing with wetness and/or clay soils, an alternative is the Nuttalli. They have the best form of the reds from what I have seen around here and are starting to gain traction. Guy Sternberg developed a nice cultivar (New Madrid) that you can buy mail-order. Just got one of those too....See MoreRecommendations for Engineered Red Oak Natural please
Comments (3)"The best "stick with something 5/8 or 3/4" thickness for a better wear layer. I like to work with Owens and Graff, quality materials. I'm sure if you call them they can suggest distributors in your area. good luck...See MoreBlue/orange/green/charcoal decor + natural red oak flooring
Comments (7)what forums would you like to add to your OP next time you post? say "Conversations" wouldn't appear in your list..one has to go there, open a thread there, then add another forum (say this one) before posting Other forums should be listed as options for you to add (I usually choose patterns like this..first, I fall in love..then,I make sure I am in love indeed-which would be me constantly looking at the pattern/pallette, or having it on my mind for a long enough time(the time can vary..if it's a throw pillow I alot less time to it than whether it's something big and expensiive)..then I try to analyze whether my love will work with what a house would love too..usually I'm able to sneak it in..if no, I let the house win. Then there's budget. That's how I don't have a rug..)) Well, not a big, important one. I find that the more colors one has-the easier is it to incorporate one more. But it demands certain preferences of course..and minding things like fresh, bright, clean colors vs more muted versions, or cooler temperature colors vs warmer vesrions ..and repetition, which can come in many subtle forms. Depends on a person..the amount of colors they're comfortable with in their houses. I don't like going by the strict rules here..I mean it's important to read what others think and to know it, because then it gives one more confidence to break it if he's so inclined. He knows his "why" better so to say. It takes some time to build this confidence. Add pictures..recently became a bit of an arduous process as pictures, because of this site's glitches, often don't upload in the opening post..but usually one can upload them in the comment section....See MoreHelp- Natural or brown tone finish on white oak floor using MINWAX
Comments (3)LIve wire oak mentions many things...the biggest red flag is the 'professional' (ahem...) using a low-grade DIY product such as Minwax. Minwax stains are OIL based. They take time to cure (72 hours anyone?) before a product such as Loba can be applied (water based product out of Germany). And just like oil and water NOT mixing, Loba and Minwax do NOT mix. Loba has their own line of water based stains. They are expensive, but beautiful. A SOLVENT (aka oil based) based finish (like Minwax) turns ORANGE. Not just 'yellow' but ORANGE!!!!! So...you can kick Minwax to the curb IMMEDIATELY!!! Like YESTERDAY! Water based polyurethanes (such as Loba 2K Supra AT; Loba WS 2K Supra; Bona Traffic HD; Bona Traffic; etc) do NOT TURN YELLOW! They are referred to as "clear coats" by many. White Oak NEEDS a sealant (Loba Easyprime = Loba sealant) when working with water based polyurethane. If you do NOT use the sealant (because you are using a WATER BASED polyurethane) then you will find the White Oak tannins (the stuff that gives wood its colour) will move to the surface of the wood and sit there = turn yellowish over time. Whew! So first things first: find ANOTHER refinisher. Water based stains are a B!tch to work with if you DO NOT have the training. And NO, you do NOT WANT to be the 'project' they floor dude uses to learn the product. Water based polyurethanes are ANOTHER issue all together. As easy as Loba is to work with....it still takes PLENTY of practice to 'figure out'. Especially if you are an 'oil guy' for 20+ years. Please find the nearest professional: www.nwfa.org An NWFA Certified Flooring Sander/Refinisher is going to charge $5+ per square foot to work with the high end stuff. But it is TOTALLY worth it. And that $5/sf is JUST the staining/finishing. The TOTAL cost for installation is going to add a few more $$ per square foot for the labour to cut/install the wood floor itself....See MoreB Merrit
5 years agoDiana Bier Interiors, LLC
5 years agoJamie Ludwig
5 years agomissenigma
5 years agoB Merrit
5 years agoB Merrit
5 years agoB Merrit
5 years agoB Merrit
5 years agoB Merrit
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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