Thinking of building a Craftsman style home on farmland.
Kathleen Woods
5 years ago
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5 years agoPPF.
5 years agoRelated Discussions
building a landscape on farmland - soil issues?
Comments (12)Penn State does soil testing through the Cooperative Extension Service offices so that would be where to go for soil pH and major nutrients. They may also do other testing for contaminants for higher fees. In addition these simple soil tests may be of some help, although you may not be able to do them until you purchase the property. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Some sources of information that may be of some use would be the CES office, the Natural Resources Conservation Service office, and if there is one the county drain commissioner....See MoreLights for Craftsman/Prairie style home?
Comments (8)Thanks I'll check out the book. I want a more authentic interior and floorplan. I really like bungalow company/christian gladu designs but to get a custom plan for him is probably out of our budget since he wants 10-15% of the construction budget. There are a couple of other people I'm looking at too. I'd love to see your build as it goes along:) Oh! I have no idea if this will be helpful to you at all but heart of oak workshop will do trim based on your plans and then you just have to get someone to install it. I want dark trim so I'm trying to find good options....See MoreHouse elevation/style... craftsman/farmhouse?
Comments (33)CamG, I really like he latest rendition with only one gable. I agree with using taller windows. Will you have divided lites? I think this is similar to what virgilcarter is suggesting: We used 8x8 . The columns were slightly off the ground so we put in trim pieces. I would reconsider the stone on the front of the porch. I didn't realize this needed to be specified in advance. We didn't have a brick or stone ledge so it was too late by the time I decided to put stone. Maybe just put in the stone ledge just in case you change your mind....See MoreEnergy Efficient Exterior Door for Craftsman-Style Home
Comments (2)A single door, even if it is installed in the thermal envelope of a conditioned building, will have marginal effect on the overall energy performance of the structure. Fenestration (ie. doors and windows) are energy rated based on their U-factor rating. U-factor rating is the measure of thermal transmittance of energy through the door or window assembly. The lower the U-rating the less energy is lost or gained through the door assembly. For southern Ohio, energy codes require a minimum of U-.34 or U-.40 depending on location. U-factor is the inverse of R-value. R-value is the measure of thermal resistance. If you divide 1 by the U-factor, you get the R-value. A door rated with a U-factor of .35 has an R-value of 2.86. A door with a U-factor of .40 has an R-value of 2.5. The significance to the overall performance of the structure is miniscule or non-important. That said, changing to a door with an R-factor of R-2 will yield a U-value of .50. While this isn't very good by most standards, it will be barely noticeable to your energy consumption or comfort. The bottom line is: Get the door you want. And make your home more energy efficient by other means such as sealing gaps and cracks where air can get in and out, and cost you some serious money in lost energy dollars....See Morecpartist
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
5 years agobluesanne
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMrs Pete
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoUser
5 years agoVirgil Carter Fine Art
5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoH B
5 years agoK H
5 years agoHolly Stockley
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5 years agocpartist
5 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
5 years agoUser
5 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHolly Stockley
5 years agoUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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