I ordered two of the Exclamation planetrees from Advanced Tree Technology. The total of the order including shipping was $64.50. The trees were roughly 4-5 ft tall. They were not bare root. They are shipped in a plastic wrapping that is in the shape of a pot. The trees were essentially potted with a good amount of soil around them and best of all the soil in each "pot" was still quite moist. I expected the trees to be dormant given the time of year that I ordered them but each still had a decent amount of green leaves. They were beginning to go dormant though because each had a few brown leaves as well. Neither tree was root bound when I took the plastic "pot" off to plant them. However, each had a nice root system that looked very healthy. I took some pics of the shipment and I've included them to give you a better idea of how the trees look. BTW, Advanced Tree has some errors on their website. If you poke around, you will find Bloodgood listed a few times as the Planetree that they sell. I talked with a company representative over the phone and she said that they used to sell Bloodgood but they switched over to Exclamation exclusively. This was confirmed by each tree having a tag from Chicagoland Grows that discovered and markets this cultivar. Advanced Tree Technology hasn't updated parts of the website yet to reflect this change. You can't see the prices of anything on their website unless you click on the "Order online" link. You can also request a catalog that has all of the prices. Here is the box that I received: Here are the two trees in the box: Here are the two trees out of the box: Here is a closeup of the leaves:

Counselor, You have spider mites for the fungus use hydrogen peroxide (H2o2) 3% from the drugstore see link: http://www.kimisplumeria.com/Faqs-PDF/F-7-Hydrogen%20Peroxide.pdf Because this is the time of year many new growers and some that are not so new get introduced to the world of the spider mite. I thought it would be good to give a commercial Plumeria growers view of the issue. When one gets an infestation of spider mites immediate actions should be taken in order to prevent a out of control situation. First the grower needs to select an insecticide appropriate for this particular insect. Second it is VERY important to know the life cycle of the mite you are targeting. The next is to have the proper application (and protective wear equipment) and knowledge of how to spray for effective control of the insect. And remember for eradication more than one application of spray will be necessary. The following is a list of control agents: These will work to some degree; Malathion* ("Malathion is an insecticide of relatively low human toxicity"), Horticultural Oil*, Neem Oil, Broad spectrum systemic sprays (Orthine - Isotox), Insecticidal soaps. (Most agricultural colleges do not recommend any of the above see links at bottom of page.) *1.25-2.5 oz. for 1gal. Water for summer application, reduce for greenhouse conditions. To add Malathion use at recommended dose for both products. Do not use if temps will exceed 85 degrees the day of spray you will kill both the mites and your plants LOL. These will work better; Floramite, Avid, Akari, TetraSan 5 WDG, Forbid, Hexygon DF and the addition of Stirrup M (sex attractant pheromone). And lastly, hosing off plant with a fine but powerful water spray will work in certain environments. Before proceeding, use good judgment by wearing the appropriate protective gear, then choose the best sprayer for the particular task. Do not use a hose end sprayer for safety and the environments sake. Make sure to follow manufactures directions and precautions for the spray material. Read the entire label for the product. Spraying method should include spraying the entire plant: This means special attention to the undersides of the leaves, the tips of the apical and lateral stems**. Make sure you do appropriate follow-up applications. Follow the manufactures directions in all cases for repeat applications. Jack http:www.kimisplumeria.com **Plants have two different types of stems, the main stem, called the apical stem, and the side stems, called lateral stems. The apical stem extends all the way from the roots to the tip of the plant. The lateral stems branch off from the main stem in regular intervals. On a tree, the apical stem would be the trunk, while the lateral stems would be the branches. PS These are a few educational links for spider mites; http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html http://www.fmcprosolutions.com/Portals/pest/Content/Docs/BMP/pest_bmp_t1spidermite.pdf http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2012.html http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef438.asp

I found this link that might help: Posted by gardenguru1950 SunsetZ16 (My Page) on Sat, Aug 8, 09 at 13:06 The most common "eater" of rose leaves in California is the Bristly Rose Slug, the larvae of the Rose Sawfly. The sawfly is a pudgy little wasp. It lays its eggs on the UNDERSIDES of the leaves and the caterpillars feed on the UNDERSIDES of the leaves. The rose slug is tiny, no more than 1/4-inch long and very slender, and it's the exact same pale green as the undersides of the leaves. Talk about hard to see and find! It's the critter that "skelotinizes" rose leaves. It's pretty easy to get rid of, actually. Almost any good spray will do the job: insecticidal soap, Neem, pyrethrum. The trick is to spray thoroughly UNDER the leaves. Not stand back and spray all over. You have to get UNDER the leaves. By the way, a commonly suggested spray for rose sawfly is BT. It doesn't work. It doesn't work because it's meant for the caterpillars of moths and butterflies. The rose slug is the larvae of a wasp. And I'm not sure of any beneficial insect that preys upon it. As for your rose buds, Applenut has a good idea. Go outside late at night with a flashlight. The critter most likely is an earwig, sowbug or pillbug. It also might be a slug or snail. Joe Here is a link that might be useful: Bugs that eat roses' leaves

Here is an explanation for the name 'pissants' from the web. Diana Odorous Ants, Piss Ants, Sugar Ants In the United States, any small or tiny ant that infests a home is often labeled as a Pissant or piss ant. An actual Pissant is an ant that lives in certain European forests and gets its name from the odor produce by its nesting material - pine straw and pine needles. Middle English pissemyre : pisse, urine (from the smell of the formic acid that ants secrete); piss + mire, ant (probably of Scandinavian origin; akin to Danish myre). Small indoor ant infestations (those commonly called piss ants, sugar ants) can be any of a variety of small ants. Pharaoh Ants, Ghost Ants, White-Footed Ants, Odorous House Ants, Crazy Ants and other small ants are often the number one pest control problem in certain areas of the country. On the west coast of the United States, Argentine Ants are a major concern. Each ant species has different characteristics that must be examined before deciding on pest control methods. Ant baits are very attractive pest control tools to many people for various reasons. If an ant population will accept a bait, insecticide sprays and dusts are not always necessary.