Mastic or Duct-Seal for outdoor duct?
dbtothadb
5 years ago
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ci_lantro
5 years agodbtothadb
5 years agoRelated Discussions
duct taping joints of ducting from furnace throughout
Comments (11)I would use mastic and a chip brush to apply. I would seal all of the returns and supply vents. The time you waste will pay you back in $$$$ and comfort. The more you seal other things like pipe runs and where wires come up into the house and into the attic area the less air you will not waste time heating and cooling. I would have to say for the average builder if you spent an extra $1,000.00 in sealants and time (yours or the builder's) it would probably pay itself back in less than 5yrs. This is talking going beyond what quite a few other builders do. I have a quote in front of me for sealing things that I am doing myself after the 'builder thought it was a waste' home was built. If these things were done at the time of building it might have cost an extra weeks labor and less than $1,000.00 materials. Seal returns in walls and floor joists $400.00 seal around baseboard trim (remove and reinstall and paint) on outside walls $3,000.00 wrap and seal supply ducts $1,840.00 Seal recessed lights $75ea x14 add one 6x30 return in hall wall $800.00 Doing this after the home is completed is a total pain in the rear compared to taking a little time and doing it at the time of the build. It might seem to be a waste of his time or money but he isn't the one that will be paying the utilities. I would say from the sounds of this guy that you might be best to do some research on the net and ask us and others what to do and how to do it cause I doubt he cares to do it right. Best of luck,...See MoreSealing leaky air ducts in crawlspace w/mastic - DIY?
Comments (10)had to google ptcs Performance Tested Comfort Systems PTCS Certification is an important qualification for contractors working on HVAC systems such as furnaces, air conditioners, heat pumps, and ventilation ducts. PTCS certified contractors are trained � and held accountable through third-party inspections � to evaluate your entire house as a system when installing a new HVAC system. In many cases, you may be able to replace your existing furnace, air conditioner or heat pump with a smaller (and cheaper) unit if the installation is accompanied by air sealing, insulation, duct sealing and other efficiency measures. The program is limited to the Pacific Northwest, including Washington, Oregon, Montana and Idaho. If you live in one of those four states, you should look for the PTCS Certification when evaluating a contractor to do any HVAC work for your house. ___________________________________________________________ ok enough of that pic by pic comments: Pic 1 hard pipe supply plenum (silver) with black flex suppy duct see the failure of the duct tape? the duct tape should be removed. black jacket and insulation folded back and take off mastic sealed to hard pipe plenum. not only the take off but also the inner liner of duct to take off. let dry. insulation and jacket pulled to plenum in full contact and mastic sealed. I would use paint on mastic for the seal to the plenum and mastic tape to secure jacket to ductwrap of plenum. pic 2 & 3 see above pic 4 your vapor barrier should extend up on the walls of the crawlspace and be sealed to walls pic 4 this is where the hard duct plenum reduces to smaller size..the joints here leak also. but opening the duct wrap and mastic sealing these areas would be a LOT of work. you may want to seal major leaks first and see if performance improves before tackling the sealing of hard pipe. It is curious that the pipes seem to be insulated with batt insulation rather than pipe insulation see pink insulation wrap on pipe going thru block wall. this may be to condensing unit? so do you think you may take this job on or sub it out? if you sub it out make sure that you have duct leakage numbers before and test to get reduction numbers afte sealing. also take a look at the job in progress to make sure that mastic or mastic tapes are used. best of luck....See MoreMastic for leaky ducts?
Comments (4)the liquid mastic will stick to just about anything - at most, you might wipe the area down with a wet cloth to remove any dirt & dust, then let it dry before applying the mastic. As for the possible asbestos exposure - you've already been exposed to whatever it was when you cut the duct. You can buy "n95" respirators at the depot, and it isn't a bad idea to wear one when you're working a a 50 year old house....See MoreCan I seal vent to drywall with Duct Tape?
Comments (7)you are welcome. Hardcast 1402 is not sold at box stores it is a hvac supply product. foil tapes won't adhere to the sheetrock and the metal flange. mastic tape will. as you can see in pic it is silver with red writing. box stores may carry Nashua brand mastic tape an inferior product in my experience. mastic is thin, adhesion is not as strong. not worth the labor to replace when it fails IMO. here is an ebay link..not where I purchase from... but quick google search of product: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HVAC-Hardcast-AFG-1402-Rolled-Mastic-Duct-Sealant-Tape-3-x100-Topmost-Quality-/321032199173 take a look at the link..so you'll have an idea of what the roll looks like. not silver with blue writing...red writing.. other types do not seal long term pricy, but worth it as it lasts...according to johnston supply specs for 40 years. I can only vouch for 15 years when I first started using Hardcast. I have a real problem with having to go back & re-work previous work..thus the use of this specific brand of specific tape. if surfaces are clean & dry...it will seal to just about everything, stucco, cement & dirt excepted. once you use this product...you'll use it for lots of things. best of luck....See MoreDavidR
5 years agodbtothadb
5 years agokudzu9
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSteve J
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agodbtothadb
5 years ago
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