dale - "Now, ...... you're implying that the idea of documenting re-usable patterns does not exist in the cabinet making field.... well, actually, we both know that isn't true, right? ......... I bet you have a drawn out plan for just about every size of standard cabinet made. I guarantee you that the big companies do. I was just asking if anyone had ever found such plans available on the Internet. " of course the plans EXIST ! But, this is exactly what I'm talking about - there being as many set of these as there are cabinetmakers. They also don't want those practices in the public domain so not to give a leg up to new cabinet makers or competitors. You mentioned dadoes, If I were building cabinets I would not have a dado anywhere near my cabinets, and ditto for the Euro vendors we deal with. Would you like a set of their plans for a sink base? The dimensions will all be in millimeters, won't have a face frame and you'll still have to size the doors because they change depending on the exact style that is chosen - so are not on the CAD drawing for a 900mm sink base. You are just going to have to come to grips with the fact that YOU are going to have to do the grunt work (shop drawings) associated with whatever style and construction method you choose for YOUR product. It'll be a one time affair AFTER you choose your construction method. This METHOD can be arrived at if you'll go get the books and or magazines that have been mentioned here and then decide. FWIW - frameless is the fastest and easiest to construct with the least amount of tooling. Before you do anything, do you have a kitchen plan designed for your space and functional needs yet? If not forget all else till you get one as this is the most important thing no matter whether you buy cabinets have them built by someone or whip em up yourself. Which reminds me - why is it you can't find something to fit your needs in the marketplace already? If you're really keen on the build it yourself route - get the New Yankee video before you jump in. He is making framed cabinets , but you'll get a real view of everything entailed in manufacturing a complete kitchen. More advice: if you really are a detail guy , why not just "assemble" your project? Take that kitchen design and order up some carcass boxes from one of the many firms that specialize in this, order doors and drawer fronts and drawer boxes from the numerous companies that specialize in this area and put them all together in your garage. Manage the "outsource parade". You can specify what you want - let's say a 34" sink base in maple plywood and let someone else worry about whether it will be doweled together or dadoed, or screwed or biscuited or framed ect, and whether the bottom and back need to be 32.5" or 32.75" wide. Most will even provide you with the exact door/drawer sizes for the particular cabinet they send. Go to the library, bookstore, New Yankee Workshop site and get yourself a kitchen design before you expend any more energy on looking for a shortcut to a full construction drawing of a 21" base cabinet. YOU NEED TO STEP BACK AND DEVELOP A BROAD PICTURE before you flesh out the Details you like dealing with.

HI Everyone, I wanted to update on my bay window in the eating area. It was installed yesterday and is beautiful, what a difference it makes to have the bumpout and the larger window! My previously planned kitchen expansion has contracted to just this but I am super pleased with it. I found online that Sunrise windows are well regarded and has a "projected frame" window that is made at the factory, so emailed them. They put me in touch with their local contractor. Many emails and two meetings later (I also had a door replaced and a new exterior door placed), the window part was constructed in one day. I asked for foam insulation to be added all around and then covered with Azek to be sure that the window stayed warm. Sunrise only offered this type of bay with the windows going all the way down. My next project is to create a flip up wood shelf that can sit on the seat when closed and act as a back support when opened. Total cost for the window, extra insulation, trimming with Azek,and installation is about $5000 all told and they considered the corbels sufficient support, so no torsion box needed. Some electrical had to be moved down also. The header and window width is unchanged. Absolutely worth it and it's amazing how easy the new windows and doors are to operate. My patio door went from a two handed, full body planted heaving opening effort to single finger opening. The new windows in the bay move with a few fingers. When they are closed up the garden sounds completely disappear, unlike our old windows . Super low air infiltration. Next is the kitchen remodel in the existing space, finally! Before After This post was edited by scrappy25 on Wed, May 14, 14 at 9:33

If you are site-building the cabinets, I think the french cleat is a wasted effort. You can bolt a continuous 2x6 to the wall studs at cabinet height, then attach the cabinet boxes to it with either metal plates or dadoes and notches with screws. The 2x6 would get a 3/4" notch halfway deep at each partition site, and the partition would get a corresponding 5.5"x3/4" notch to give the joint. Add glue and 3 16d nails and that's stronger and more stable than the cleats; that system is only applicable if you want the cabinets to be easily removable, and install ready-made boxes quickly. The bottom cleat adds little, as the bottom of the cabinets is being naturally pushed into the wall anyway. The top attachment is where the cabinets are being pulled away from the wall, so concentrate your strengthening efforts there. If you're clever you can build these cabinets in with a greatly-reduced amount of sheet goods. 3/4 ply all around is best, because it allows you to use single partitions between segments. Work in a 2x4 for a continuous front edge rail, and you will have the foundation for a strong workbench top. I would fit the bottom shelf into dadoes in the partitions, since there is no base for support; perhaps even add a 1x2 cleat down below for more strength. A rear 1x4 (instead of the upper 2x6) will give a place to secure the bottom shelf all along that edge, and if you add a faceframe, that will help the front edge. You need to think through the spans and the load for the bottom to avoid sagging. You can get hinges that allow doors to be mounted to both sides of a single partition, or you could add a continuous faceframe to the unit and hang doors from it. Casey

I used the 'EZ Level' system when I installed my cabinets by myself. I was putting in stone counter tops and was worried about my 95 year old wavy floor, and how to get everything level enough for the soapstone. Since my kitchen remodel was 100% DIY, and I had never done a kitchen remodel, I wanted to use every option I could find to get things right, without too much stress. This was totally the way to go! Yes, they are expensive, but fortunately I only needed 2 sets for my small kitchen. they were sooooo easy to use. You can level the front and the back using a basic cordless drill. I think it took me about 5 minutes to level the front and back of each cabinet, so they also save time. But, I think the most important thing for me was that it gave me piece of mind that I truly leveled the cabinets well. I somehow didn't trust those little shims. And, on their website, they show how these lift the cabinet bases off the floor, so if you ever have a flood, the cabinets aren't ruined by the water. Of course I hope to never have a flood, but it is a nice benefit. I looked at other options, but this seemed to be a no brainer for me. Here is a link that might be useful: EZ Level