Concrete countertops that look like wood?

5 years ago

Anyone have concrete countertops that look like wood? Are you happy? I hope to find the same dark hard variety soapstone for our perimeter cabinets...but for the island, I love the look of oiled butcher block (but I don't dare!). I am not wowed by any quartz samples yet, and I'm afraid of real marble. Loved my soapstone in my former kitchen, but would like to mix in something new with a much bigger kitchen and an island (last kitchen was very small, with a peninsula, and all one countertop).

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cawaps

5 years ago

Even with a sink, I'd still choose wood over concrete. The main issue with wood around sinks is the possibility of discoloration (and eventually deterioration) if it isn't properly sealed (or you don't maintain the sealant) and/or you are sloppy about wiping up splashes and spills. But concrete will discolor from water contact as well, and from what I've read, keeping it properly sealed is more challenging than a wood counter. Hopefully some folks with direct experience with sinks in wood counters will chime in.

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Comments (14)

cawaps
5 years ago
Why don't you dare do butcher block? It can be hard to maintain if there's a sink, but otherwise it is very forgiving, as it can just be sanded down if it get stains and dings.

Concrete counters have a reputation for staining easily and I've seen a lot of posts over the years from people dissatisfied with them. In contrast, I've seen very few posts from people unhappy with butcher block. Some of that might have to do with expectations (maybe people think concrete is bullet proof, but have more realistic expectations about butcher block).

I'll admit I was puzzled by the concept of wood-look concrete counters until I googled this pic of a concrete vanity top. This is amazing, and obviously something that you could not do with real wood. There's some craftsmanship that went into that.

Source: JM Lifestyles https://jmlifestyles.com/gallery-slideshow.php?Castaway-Vanity-215
GreenDesigns
5 years ago
Concrete has no positive traits at all for a kitchen wear surface. You might as well be putting in marble. It would wear better and be prettier.
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AboutToGetDusty
Original Author
5 years ago
Cawaps, I am planning on have a prep sink in my island (so no butcher block, right?) Yes, that picture! That's the company with the beautiful pictures. I saw a similar countertop at a local mansion design show last spring. I just don't know anyone who has such a counter and can give me the real scoop.
highdesertowl
5 years ago
"Woodform Concrete countertops exclusively by JM Lifestyles Andrew Pitzer. WoodForm Concrete® is a lightweight engineered composite that looks like wood and acts like stone. It will not split, crack, splinter, stain or rot."

This product is new to me. Is it more like concrete? Or like quartz? Regardless, my general recommendation is to always let someone else have the headache of testing new and exclusive products :)
AboutToGetDusty
Original Author
5 years ago
Chocolatesnap. Exactly - which is why I posted my question here! Hoping some folks out there have tested it already and give a review.
THOR, Son of ODIN
5 years ago
Petrified wood sinks are beautiful.
highdesertowl
5 years ago
How "new" is this product? When I talk about "test" I don't just want to know that it looks good when installed--I really want to know about function/performance--especially in a kitchen. What will it look like in 5 years? 10? Look back at concrete counter tops for example--they were super exciting a few years ago--but the drawbacks began to show up over time, and several early adopters became unhappy within a few years. Concrete counters are still a great choice for some, but now they can go into it knowing the limitations of the material. Same thing happened with Dekton, great surface for some applications--but fails miserably at impact tests, and is not a forgiving material for unqualified or inexperienced installers.
artistsharonva
5 years ago
Links to concrete countertop discussions

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/concrete-countertops-need-help-is-this-normal-dsvw-vd~3219311

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/help-with-concrete-countertops-dsvw-vd~4584243

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/debating-concrete-counter-tops-dsvw-vd~4003097
artistsharonva
5 years ago
If you like the look of wood, why not wood. Wood looks like wood. Distressed or butcher block with matte finish. Make sure to use food safe materials on stains & sealant.
AboutToGetDusty
Original Author
5 years ago
Chocolatesnap, that's why I shake my head at honed quartz countertops. In 2011, when we were picking a countertop in our former home, I brought home samples of quartz and the honed marble-look quartz failed miserably against wine, tomatoes, and table knives. That said, lots of people told us not to do soapstone...but we found a great fabricator who installed a beautiful hard type of soapstone. After oiling it for a year, I stopped. The rings stopped. And I had this beautiful, no maintenance stone that seemed as close to perfect as I could hope for. If I do real wood, can friends put their wine glasses down on wood? How often would I need to seal wood counters? Will it stain from serving food on it? When we're not entertaining, I am meticulous. It's others than I worry about ;-)
highdesertowl
5 years ago
I had a wood countertop in a half bath around a bathroom sink. It was put in by the previous owners--I wouldn't have dared. It held up perfectly for the 10 years we were there. Not sure how long it was installed before that. I think there are several threads on houzz about the best way to manage and deal with real wood, including the very best sealers, and the best wood species to use. Wood is certainly beautiful on an island. And, as others have said, if something does happen, just sand and reseal.
AboutToGetDusty
Original Author
5 years ago
The company sent specs (I'll paste them) below. Thoughts?

Physical Data:

Three Layered Composite comprised of:

“Outer Shell”- Min. 8,500 psi Compressive, 1850 psi Flexural

Finished Layer – 1/8” Typ.

“Secondary Layer”-Min. 8,500 psi Compressive, 1850 psi Flexural

Impact Layer – 1⁄4” Typ.

“Tertiary Layer” – Min. 4,500 psi Compressive, 1,400 psi Flexural

Support Layer – 1⁄2” Typ.

Weight – 7 lbs/sf at 3⁄4” Thickness

Sealer and Finish Technical Data:

Material: Water Bourne Urethane/ JMU

Appearance/Finish: Matte or Gloss only

Maintenance: Furniture pens and Beeswax furniture Polish

Reseal: Sand with 320 sand paper, color as needed, roll on sealer 24 HR cure

Property Result ASTM

Water Resistance Impervious 72 hrs.

Pencil Hardness 5H D 3363

Direct Impact Resistance >160in/lbs G14-88

Indirect Impact Resistance >160in/lbs G14-88

Abrasion Resistance

Colorfastness 1.83 Delta E D2565

Stain Resistance Rating of 30 CSA B45.813 Standard

Abrasion Resistance 9,000 cycles CSA B45.813 Standard

Chemical Resistance Result ASTM

5% Ammonia No Effect D 1308-87

5% Sodium Hydroxide No Effect D 1308-87

5% Hydrochloric Acid No Effect D 1308-87

5% Sulfuric Acid No Effect D 1308-87

5% Nitric Acid No Effect D 1308-87

Xylene Softens/Recovers D 1308-87

Ethanol Softens/Recovers D 1308-87

Mineral Spirits No Effect D 1308-87

Acetone No Effect D 1308-87

Gasoline No Effect D 1308-87

Diesel Fuel No Effect D 1308-87

Kerosene No Effect D 1308-87
highdesertowl
5 years ago
The "maintenance" and "reseal" info is interesting. Is this just a sealed wood veneer over a concrete support layer? If so, you are better off with real wood IMO