Some foods from the store come with one-piece lids in a mason size and thread shape. For example, coconut oil and some kinds of spaghetti sauce. I can with those lids, and I use them multiple times. They have much thicker seal than the flat lids sold for canning. Thicker even than the one-piece lids that used to be sold for canning back in the 80s. I wouldn't use them for low acid pressure canned stuff, of course. I don't think I've ever reused a flat lid, but I would consider it if I just needed one or two more lids for a low acid product like applesauce. I would pick through all my old lids and choose the ones with the best looking seals, the shallowest grooves from old canning. I posted a question here a while back, about some new jars with lids that had been stored on a warm porch where they sealed and unsealed themselves many times. When I pried the lids off, they had visible grooves. But I was advised to go ahead and simmer them and use them, and I didn't have any trouble with them. Again, high acid, BWB only. Edit: I mean, the one piece Lids from the 80s were marketed as reusable. Up to four times, if I remember correctly.

Your set up sounds like my original bin. It worked great and I have since bought a commercial set-up that doesn't really work much better, just has a few added convenience factors. I'll pass along some things I learned through trial and error. I found that newpaper works well but works even better as a bedding when mixed with some other matter. A handful or two of dirt gives the worms some grit that help them break down the food scraps. Be careful if you add compost (no commercial stuff! it has chemicals and will kill your worms) and unfinished compost will generate heat, also bad for the worms. I also added some Coconut Coir to my bin. It helps keep the beds moist, but not wet and I found a cheap source locally at a pet shop at about $5.00 for three bricks. If you go this route add no more than 1/2 brick at a time because this stuff really expands when you soak it. You may not notice much activity for a while, 50 worms is a relatively small number. The nice thing is the food will break down if they can't keep up and actually will help increase the feeding pace as it rots. So be careful with overfeeding. After a few weeks you will begin to see little balls that look like tiny BB's. These are eggs, a good sign you have happy worms, and will soon have many more worms. Moisture is a must but too much water will cause your bin to get funky. I had this experience first hand and had to dump my bin on a tarp. The bottom chunk came out like a lump of wet clay and smelled like raw sewage. No surprise, considering I was dealing with poop. I saved the worms, rebedded and now add very little water if any. Last thing is I started my bin with some "trout and panfish" worms from Walmart. They worked really well and are thriving 3 months later. A friend gave me a handfull of red-wrigglers, I added them and they are thriving as well. No turf wars between the two. I tried nightcrawlers, they all died off, and I tried worms from my yard. The yard worms really hated the bin and we had nightly "jail breaks". I would wake up in the morning to worms crawling across my kitchen floor. Found out later from others that free range worms will not stay in the bin. A good rule of thumb is, if you find more than a couple outside of the bin, you have a problem. Check inside the bottom of your outer bin from time to time for escapees as well. Hope this helps.

NSCHLOSS - I installed (18 months ago) similar to the pictures above, EXCEPT I went one step further. Where she has the blank panel above the two drawers, I had my cabinet maker do a third drawer there. It was tight, and we weren't sure if it would end up being a fake drawer or a working drawer until we did the actual install. But, I really wanted a utensil drawer there if at all possible. And I got one... when you pull the drawer open, the actual drawer behind it is only 2" or so deep, the front makes it look like the normal 6-7" deep. Just deep enough to put non-combustible turners, tongs, large spoons, etc. for cooking. I don't keep rubber scrapers or even wooden spoons in there just to be safe. So, hows this been working in reality? I would defintely still do it for the handiness of having the utensils there. Every once in a great while, the jumbled utensils catch briefly beneath - but a quick jiggle and that addresses that. And sometimes, when I have three burners or more going, I will open up this drawer to aid in ventilation - not that it needs it necessarily - but, just to be cautious. It never seems to get very hot beneath the cooktop. Other than that, it's perfect. I'd definitely do it again... Although, I will caution - should you have a problem with the cooktop within the warranty period, I suppose they could argue that you have an improper install and deny any warranty claim....I decided to take that risk. Hope this helps you....

jerseegitl: "We did buy new cookware (Tramontina all clad) and there is absolutely no buzzing. I have been washing it in the sink rather than the dishwasher because I read somewhere that the transition from hot to cold is what warps the metal and this warpage is what causes the buzz. If only I could find the perfect machinetta for espresso that is induction friendly...." The hottest water in the "sanitize" cycle of even the hottest NSF-certified dishwasher will not be hot enough to threaten warpage of any pot that can survive cooking on the cooktop. Some clad cookeare, however, is not perfectly sealed at all of the edges, so the makers recommend against putting them in the dishwasher lest water get between the layers. We have been throwing Demeyere stainless pots into our dishwasher for a dozen years, with no ill effects. What causes buzzing usually is the frequency of the oscillation of the induction inverter at a specific power level exciting a resonance within the pot. It is affected by the level of liquid in the pot as well, as that can change or dampen the resonant frequencies of the pot as a whole. As for the moka pot (stovetop espresso or machinetta), Vev Vigano (Italian, of course) makes several models that are induction compatible, which you can find with an online search on induction AND "Vev Vigano". If you can reconcile with the blasphemy of a non-Italian moka pot that is induction compatible, you might want to look into the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: Valira Atlantic moka pot