I see no harm in fertilizing with a fertilizer that i slow in Nitrogen and Phosphorus,when repotting.I was a horticultur student for three years as well as having maintained a diverse collection of many plants,though admittedly,I have more to learn about citrus.The last number in a series of 3 on a fertilzer label is for Potassium.NPK is equated to those three numbers or Nitrogen(foliage)first number,Phosphorus(flowering)2nd number,and finally the last number is the Potassium,which is best for root growth.A boost to the roots during a transplant is a good idea,but you don't want to use a product high in Nitrogen or Phosphorus,as the tree needs to recover the root structure first,in order to support new growth.For organice gardners,dried or baked banana peel,that is crumbled and mixed into the soil,is a safe source of Potassium for the new plant.I did not read the labels on the bone meal I used during my myers lemons' repotting and added some in the pots.This is a product that is gentle and not a cause for alrm,but is highest in Phosphorus and not what I would have added,had I known better.My trees suffered no ill harm and are flowering now,about a month after the repotting.I also threw a sprinkling of HOLLYTONE fertilizer on the soil's surface and waited a few days to water in.This seemed to get the trees off to a good start.In short,soem things we don't need to micro-manage and really won't make the difference between success or failure,so it is left up to you what you prefer.Stress less and have more fun,I try say,when it comes to hobbies.You won't kill your trees if you want to toss in a gentle fertilizer,when you repot.

John, you are mistaken about the location of oak tree roots, at least the ones that absorb water and nutrients. Those are ALL located in the upper 12 inches of the soil surface. Some oaks send anchor roots down deep into the soil but they have nothing to do what the 'feeder' roots do. As a matter of fact, 12 inches would be deeper than any I've ever seen. The extremely wide spreading, fibrous mat of feeder roots is normal physiology for most deciduous trees. It not only sustains the trees in terms of water and nutrients, but holds the trees in place. I would fully expect that a mere twenty feet away from this oak, the soil system would be packed full of the fibrous roots of that oak. These roots extend very far beyond the reach of the (so called) drip-line. Depending upon the health of the tree, those roots may be found a hundred feet away from the trunk. So why so shallow? Because these trees need an enormous amount of water, of dissolved minerals, and...OXYGEN. All three will be found (especially 02) in the greatest quantities in the top few inches of soil. It's also something of a myth (2nd myth) that the soil under oak trees is acidic. FRESH oak leaves might be somewhat acidic, but dead ones are not. That's even true with the evergreen oaks so common to the South. Stick your shovel into the soil and tell us what you find about two or three inches down. That's about where the mat of feeder roots will start. By the way, if you can post some pictures of the leaves...even fallen leaves....I'll be able to identify it for you. Leaves AND acorns would be a plus.

I'm not sure how I would even stake them. I was considering cutting off most of the branches but I'm afraid they'd just sprout more sideways growth. Maybe they'll become more vertical as they get bigger. I'm not that concerned about the Kaffir because I use that primarily for cooking and am always pinching off leaves. Espaliered trees are beautiful but you definitely need them in the ground against a fence or wall in order to train them. I hoping that none of my plants get knocked around over the next couple days. We are predicted to be getting the remains of Ernesto tomorrow with some strong winds and rain. We sorely need the rain but could do without the wind. I tried to move most of the plants that were likely to be blown around. Karyn

It's my second year vegetable gardening as well, and I'm loving it! If only the sun would come out! Fruit Trees: *Cherries *Melrose apple *Redfree apple *Peaches *blueberries (multiple varieties) In raised beds: *Lettuce/greens: black seeded simpson, green oak leaf, red deer tongue, Australian yellowleaf, cracoviensis, rouge d'hiver, merlot, arugula, spinach *Tomatoes: black giant, black, bali, red russian, eva purple ball, russian 117, yellow peach, stupice *Peppers: gypsy, jalapeno *Winter squash: small sugar pumpkin, potimarron, musquee de provence *Summer squash: ronde de nice *Beans: vermont cranberry, rattlesnake, purple, jacob's cattle, agate soybean *Peas: green arrow *Carrots: dragon, atomic red, scarlet nantes *Onions: rossa di milano, generic white sets *Potatoes (in wine buckets): russian blue, french fingerling, alaskan sweetheart, caribe, german butterball *Cucumbers: lemon, armenian, boothby's blonde, straight eight, tondo di manduria Herbs: *greek oregano *italian parsley *lemon thyme *rosemary *mint *cilantro *garlic chives Still to go in: *Rosa bianca eggplants (under lights) *Genovese & Christmas basil (under lights) *Long Island Improved Brussel Sprouts (from seed) Beans: Rossa di Milano onion: Greens: