Need vent hood advice for Capital Culinarian
Allan
5 years ago
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Allan
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Capital Culinarian Complex Range Venting/Ducting - Any Advice?
Comments (7)As noted above, maybe a liner (hood without a fancy exterior) would be best for wood integration. I have a Wolf Pro Island hood, and it fits my desired hood height under an 8-foot ceiling by using a 1-foot extension. A seven-foot ceiling would seem to match the hood (or its equivalent liner) without an extension. In any case, island hoods are intended to duct upward, so you either have to put a bend in where the beams are, or continue through the ceiling. It is too bad that the main beam passes close to the chimney that you want to center the hood on. A large, quasi-commercial style hood at the ceiling could provide a large enough capture zone while being perhaps less obtrusive. Besides the question on the chimney sectional area, there is a possible issue with grease transport through a normal chimney, not that it hasn't been done for centuries, but then the heat source was a hot wood fire. The cooler internal tiles or whatever are being used to line the chimney will tend to collect grease more easily than thin sheet metal ducting that will tend to warm quickly. So the same issues as with wood creosote build-up may be in play. Also, using the chimney forces you to use an internal blower at the hood, rather than an external blower on the roof or exterior wall. An internal blower will be noisier for a given blower design and flow rate. What is above the ceiling by the chimney? kas...See More36' Capital Culinarian Cooktop Purchased- Need Vent Hood!
Comments (14)The hyex is the blower? I think it's possible the silencer may not be so necessary ... I also think people who know about this may tell you that it is! Here's my experience. I just bought a 42" x 27" undercabinet hood with no blower and routed the 10" pipe up to the attic. It bent there at about, um, 80-degrees and the HVAC guy put the silencer in at that point and then added the fan. It was loud. So instead he added some more duct parallel with the ceiling which pulled the silencer further from the hood itself, if you follow. It got quiet. My HVAC guy, who is admittedly a nut, seemed to be of the opinion that the biggest reason for the improvement was simply the increased distance from the hood. I also talked him into making that extra duct run parallel to the ceiling - i.e. at a shallower angle than right-angling it straight away after it hit the attic; that may also have helped (he was a little reluctant because it was extra work but he's a really good guy and wanted very much to do a good job so when I turned around he'd done as I suggested: yeah!). So anyway, that's what this guy said - he's of the opinion that the silencer was "a waste of money" and the proximity-parameter was of biggest importance. I talked extensively with this amazingly nice guy at Tradewind and I'm pretty sure he would not agree; he'd credit the silencer more. If you have time and patience, I'd say you could try it without and if it's a problem, then get the silencer and pop it in. Just so you know, that silencer is *massive* - it's more like a jet engine than the blower itself. Good luck! BTW, I hope you don't have fussy neighbors too close. I opted not to use an outside blower because I was concerned with the noise it would impose on nearby neighbors; others have noted this problem with that blower I think. If you're miles from the next elk, it may not matter. If you have cranky neighbors 20 feet away, well...it seemed a problem worth preempting....See Morerange hood for 36" 6 burner Capital Culinarian
Comments (17)Measurements made with commercial cooktops using "side panels" along with a hood that was the same width as the cooktop revealed that the side panels were effective in keeping the plumes headed toward the hood aperture, even when a salamander was mounted on the back wall near the panel. Examples of these side panels on commercial units may be seen in the attached figure. Cabinets on each side of the cooktop can perform similarly, but less effectively due to not usually being deep enough, front-to-back. This will depend on whether the front or back burner is being evaluated. Of course, cabinet placement and size must conform to appliance manufacturer requirements for distances to inflammable materials. From: CKV_Design_Guide_2_031504.pdf by the California Energy Commission Side Panels and Overhang Side (or end) panels (as represented in Figure 12) permit a reduced exhaust rate in most cases, as they direct the replacement airflow to the front of the equip-ment. They are a relatively inexpensive way to improve capture and containment and reduce the total exhaust rate. In fact, one of the greatest benefits of end panels is to mitigate the negative effect of cross drafts. It is important to know that partial side panels can provide almost the same benefit as full panels.Bottom line: Don't panic if your cabinets preclude the hood width that would be otherwise desirable. You might consider a partial panel with your hood to augment the cabinets. The panel partially obscured by the cabinet shouldn't look too obtrusive....See Morewhat range hoods are you using for your capital culinarian?
Comments (3)In some commercial settings, the requirements for grease removal from the vented air stream are apparently more stringent than for regular home or even restaurant ventilation. For these cases, there are various combinations of baffle, mesh, ball bearing, and no doubt other schemes to capture not only the large end of the grease particle spectrum, but also more of the small end of the grease particle spectrum. Even intense UV is used to disassociate the grease molecules. I don't think that there is anything intrinsically wrong with mesh+baffle filters, so long as the baffles are constructed conventionally and the air flow on high is sufficient for centrifugal grease separation, and when the air flow is lower the mesh is effective. However, cleaning cannot be put off as with baffles alone....See MoreAllan
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