Unless youre trying to attract iron, magnets are a con. Hard water is caused from dissolved lime and calcium, last I checked neither lime nor calcium are magnetic. 1. Softeners are not installed without customer input. 2 Rain Soft service techs likely don't know squat about metal U.V. light condensating. Come to think of it, I have never heard of it either. I chose to delete a third point, no need in being rude. Go buy your own softener, install and maintain it yourself. You've likely heard what must be done if you want something done right.. DOUBLE the emphasis on that statement for those who are always faultless victims of everyone else, despite actual knowledge.

Most people opt for the wrapping on a window to eliminated the necessity for paint or trim work. There is some functional benefit in that it helps divert the water away from the window as well as protect the trim.

I see few 'problems' that will likely cause/contribute to decline: 1. overpotted - pot is too large, wide & deep. was it repotted recently? 2. water retaining soil - looks like lots of peat and little perlite; well draining, gritty mix is much better 3. light - where do you keep it? how much light is it receiving? First 2 points are important, plant may be rotting.

We already know we have very hard water - we're on ground water in the San Jose, CA area: https://www.sjwater.com/sites/default/files/2019-04/CCR-2018.pdf The existing unit was set for 330 ppm (~19 grains), higher than the average value of hardness in the water company's report. We'll use the test kit to fine-tune the settings. We ordered this one which basically matches the old softener's capability: AFWFilters 5600SXT Water Softener, 48k, Black, Bypass with 3/4" Connection: Resin volume: new: 1.5 cu ft old: 1.25 Softening capacity: new 48k grains, old 45k