solution for ugly kitchen tile
6 years ago
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- 6 years ago
- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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Help! Ugly Unfinished Underside of Cambria Quartz Countertop Solution?
Comments (74)I am a fabricator. A plywood underlayment for 2CM is typically complemented by a 4CM drop edge which masks the underlayment on the edge. the plywood is really just a spacer as it does not contribute significantly to the structural integrity of the overhang. For 3CM quartz a "fussy" fab shop will grind the underside of the overhang to remove the printed Logo's from the OEM. If requested the fabricator can polish the underside but the fab shop polish will not be of the same quality as the surface. However, it will be good enough to look finished on the underside. Polishing the underside is NOT an option typically offered by the fabricator. In my business we've learned to ask the question when the layout of the room, and particularly the stairway location, means the underside will be readily visible on a regular basis and not just when someone is on the floor looking up. Another option is to make the overhang "double thick" where 2 pieces of the engineered stone are mated back to back so a factory finish is on both sides. This is an easy option for 4CM assuming corbels are used or the double thickness is extended back over the cabinet. Finally, some natural stones that are crack prone have a fiberglass matting epoxied on to the back of the stone to help it hold together during transport, fabrication, and install. A competent fab shop will remove this backing as a matter of course. I am always annoyed at the poor quality evidenced by a job where the backing can be felt and seen on an island overhang and even on the narrow countertop overhangs. If you really want a great looking underside the best way is to double up the material back to back. It's an expensive way to do it for a variety of reasons....See MoreSolution for ugly, high maintenance marble floor
Comments (7)You will need a RIGID CORE LVP to go over the marble. And that means THICK (10mm minimum = almost 1/2"). That means you will have a STEP UP where the vinyl meets the marble. I assume this will be in the doorways. So long as you are aware that the 1/2" STEP UP is a "toe stubber" in each door way and you are OK with that (every morning = toe stubbing event before you had your coffee), then go for it. And no....it won't look much better because then you will have multiple floors in MULTIPLE materials....which is almost as bad as multiple floors in marble. With the added benefit of the toe-stubbers in doorways. Sigh....I know. You do NOT want to remove the marble.....but it is the ONE THING standing in the way of you getting the floor that you WANT/NEED (which is PORCELAIN TILE). So long as the marble stays, so will your problems with finding a solution. Remove the marble and you remove the obstacles in your path. Leave the marble and you leave the obstacles. Your decision to leave it is the decision that is preventing you from finding a solution. You obviously HATE this floor. You have multiple threads going with the same issues in them....simply looking/hoping for some sort of solution. The solution = thick/rigid core Vinyl that is STABLE in sunlight/UV light that is laid over the ENTIRE FLOOR. And then hope for the best. This "rigid" core vinyl is some of the most expensive we have on the market. The most stable stuff for heat/UV is out of Korea and is hard to locate. It is $4+ per square foot. It will work. I recommend the ENTIRE floor be covered by the thick, high end, highly stable vinyl that is MADE for heat. No toe stubbers....See MoreNeed to replace ugly deck with a modern low maintenance solution
Comments (6)You are calling the deck ugly, but I'm not so sure it is the deck. It seems more to be the edges, backgrounds beyond the deck, and possibly appointments on the deck....See MoreAdvice needed: Kitchen in new house is ugly, has an awkward layout
Comments (27)Nice kitchen, Not ugly at all ... but a bit dark. On a budget, would not add tile now; instead rip off the old but repair/smooth the wall and paint all but the 4"-6" above the countertop as backsplash, which you could tile to coordinate with the countertop. Another exception to the painted wall might be the stove niche -- you could add a stainless steel panel the width of the stove, beginning just below stove top level and covering all the visible wall above the stove top. You could always add a hood to that later. Like the stove niche suggestion of Hannah Wolfson except would want a stainless steel panel above the stove and would want the electrical wiring for the lights to stay to connect a stove hood later ... so keep lights for now even if you don't add the hood now. Would create at least a countertop level with the top of the stove on each side of the stove. What you put beneath that would depend upon what that white unit left of the stove might be; however, if that white unit is something movable, create a pair of free standing base cabinets with countertops the same height as the stove top. Your kitchen windows do not have brown trim so ... if you want white trim around all your windows and doors and doorway openings, consider scrubbing all the brown trim throughout the house really well before painting them white....See MoreRelated Professionals
Royal Palm Beach Architects & Building Designers · Wauconda Architects & Building Designers · Midland Furniture & Accessories · Bartlesville General Contractors · Leon Valley General Contractors · North Lauderdale General Contractors · Tabernacle General Contractors · Glen Burnie Flooring Contractors · Kirkland Flooring Contractors · Fargo General Contractors · Citrus Heights General Contractors · Milford General Contractors · Orlando Painters · Everett Painters · Spring Valley Painters- 6 years ago
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