In my research, I actually came across this particular article on using paint as a clear finish a few times on the web. Other than this, I haven't seen too many sources recommending this method so I am a little dubious. This is certainly something that one would have to test before committing to and I would love to hear from anyone who has tried this approach. Some concerns would be (1) does this make the wood look as good as something that was designed for the purpose? We are paying money to have a walnut door and it makes little sense to use a finish that doesn't complement the wood; (2) is the finish repairable/can it be refinished without stripping? not all products that are designed for finishing wood are, but there are certainly good choices that meet this criteria; and (3) are there issues with durability/cleanup? particularly with non-glossy finishes, standard paint is not too friendly to being wiped down so I'd be cautious about how this would perform on the door in this respect. Thank you very much for your inputs, this is certainly enlightening.

When we got our Mahogany doors, my now-ex was in his passive aggressive stage. He wanted a dark door, so I went and got different stains. He liked an Olympic something that looked absolutely chocolate. I wish he'd been even snotty and said to me, "You have to wipe stain off." Because that door looked painted for-EVEH. Fast forward several years with him gone, and me having learned enough to be very dangerous. I absolutely [insert really rude 'f' word here] the Mahogany front door. I stripped it and sanded it down (before I discovered Citristrip, sadly). I wanted a natural finish. I read and read, and ended up with Cabots Australian Timber Oil, which was supposed to bring out the grain and seal it well. O. M. G. I still HATE my yellow door. And, oil yellows. So does polyurethane, BTW. Fast forward again. I learned about Citristrip, which can suck stain right out of the wood. (I'm here to tell you with 15 antique doors as testimony! Raw wood! Digression...) I used it on the sister mahogany side door and it came out a GORGEOUS grayed wood brown. Not gray from stain, but being weathered. All that said, I'm using some white oak in my kitchen. I have discovered that special walnut doesn't have any red in it, which I really love. A single coat just gives the grain some depth without making it look man-cave-ish. I'm going to try it on the inside of the door I screwed up to see how it could look. I'm going to take the door off when its warmer and see if Citristrip can suck the yellow color out of the other side of the door and start over. So a lot more info than you might need, but you might want to check out the Minwax Special Walnut. Experiment. But Mahogany, like cherry somewhat, will oxidize and darken, so keep that in mind.

Tony, nothing matches FPoE That paint is spectacular . and no, no chip brush will do it for this paint. It's not a beginner paint. (meaning, painting a door with it your first time is prob not the best idea to brush) The Hollandlac Brilliant is oil base and has the best pigments of any paint. They are also the only company to guarantee their white will not yellow. The have a hybrid line called Eco. Goes on like oil, cleans up w/water. I've used that a few times and the finish is equally beautiful. Jane, if you are buying a mahogany door, then just do a natural spar varnish/UV protectant finish. you must get the UV varnish or oil. and yes, it will need to be done yearly if it gets full sun. Door companies will not honor warranties on wood doors unless there is a certain measure of overhead protection.

Wood is a living, breathing entity. With sunlight & moisture comes changes to the look and sizing of the door. It may have been bad material on the contractor's part, but it could simply be to the nature of the wood. Or, some combination of both. To me, it looks like sun and water damage. I work in cabinetry not doors (just to be 100% transparent), but the same concepts apply... stains and wood fade and change over time, no matter what material or product is placed on them. Better products (higher quality, or factory finishes) will last longer, but will eventually suffer the same fate. If it gets a lot of light and/or deals with regular weatherization, this is not far out of the realm of possibilities. I would call the company that restained the door and ask if this is normal this early on - but prepare yourself for the answer either way. It is hard to say whether or not this is normal, not knowing the area you are in, how much light hits the door, etc. I would reread your warranty, if they gave you one, and see if this would fall within those parameters; not knowing the specifics, a year does seem very soon to be experiencing this. Although I do not work with doors, I share an office with those that do, and for areas with harsh weather and/or a lot of sunlight, my company always suggests fiberglass doors - actually scratch that, regardless of weather or sun, my company still always suggests fiberglass doors. They can come in smooth or textured - so you can paint them, or stain them just as you could with a wood door. They look very realistic, and are able to have much better warranties. But short of replacing the door - my best suggestion would be to call the company and ask for your options. Within a year, they may agree to come out and redo for free, or split the cost for you (depending on specific warranty info, or other factors). If possible, ask for the products that they used, that way you can get a more accurate look at why this is happening. I wish you the best of luck!