I realize I'm late for this party but feel I needed to add info for similar questions in the future. I've been an HVAC licensed contractor since 1979 and now support 3 equipment manufactures with onsite consulting and training. This is a very common question easily answered. What are your needs? How long will you be in your home? I'll start with the difference in 80% and 95% (condensing) furnaces. With an 80%, every dollar you pay the gas company 20 cents goes up the flue. With 95% only 5 cents goes up the flue. So basically you save 15 cents on every dollar previously spent. Now for single vs. 2 stage. Your home has an average heat loss figured for anywhere in the US. A competent contractor will do a Manual J calculation to determine the load of your home (more on this later). This load will provide enough heat for your average lowest temperatures in your area. But how often do you hit these lowest temperatures. Generally only a few hours a day or a few days every month. Which means you actually burn more gas than you need to and your furnace cuts on and off often (short cycles). Basically it's oversized for most of the winter. With a 2 stage furnace the furnace fires at a lower rate when demand is lower then bumps up too second stage if the demand becomes greater. This creates far more comfort in the home by reducing the hot and cold spots in rooms which are more prevalent when a furnace short cycles. So efficiency (80 or 90+%) reduces your money up the flue and staging reduces your money spent on comfort. Here's a problem I run into often. A contractor sells you a 95% efficient furnace and removes your 80%. After a month or 2 you see your gas bills go up! What happened? Furnaces have an Input and Output (or bonnet) rating. A 100,000 btuh 80% puts out 80,000 btuh. A 100,000 95% puts out 95,000. Some contractors just look at your old furnaces input rating and goes "like for like" rather than a proper Manual J calculation because it's easier. So if you remove your 80% 100,000 btuh furnace for a 95% 100,000 btuh furnace as you can see from the example above you would burn 95,000 - 80,000 = 15,000 btuh's more of gas than you did with your old furnace. Choose a dealer wisely and ask to see the Manual J of your home (also shows cooling needs). Hope this helps....

Talia -- I'm so glad you decided against the firm! I didn't want to offer an opinion before as I have no experience with a kitchen reno in your budget. Mine was a relatively modest $20k - no structural work but I replaced every single thing. The one thing we do have in common though is that I didn't have time to manage my project either -- but I didn't have a choice, having a "more than full time" job/career. Yet when I fantasized about having a GC, I realized, "who am I kidding? I'm gonna be all over this no matter who is in charge! It's my home!" I did luck out though, finding the best licensed, insured, experienced carpenter, contractor -- George -- I could have found through asking around a LOT. Amazing, really. As the "GC" I hired the electrician, plumber and floor tile guy, (all referrals) but not without consulting George, my carpenter first who had a ton of experience and knowledge of other trades who checked their costs first for me, helped me tweak and negotiate, etc. George helped me with my lighting plan, a rather extensive one, for me and then he came here with me and "supervised" to make sure it was done right and according to plan. When I couldn't get out of a work meeting and get home for my granite install, George jumped in and then fielded a major problem with the island -- cut wrong size -- fabricator error. He called the fab and quickly resolved the problem and a new island top was put in the following week. And George? He removed and demo'd old cabs, installed the new ones and moldings and trim, cleared all trash and did cleanup, made me a second pantry with new door and shelves, put in new sink and faucet, new range and micro, new dishwasher and fridge, moved a misplaced chandelier (my fault) and patched/painted ceiling hole, kicked out the sloppy painter and found me a new one, patched kitchen floor after I decided to move a radiator a month after floor had been done, added new saddles... and I'm sure I missed a few things... which came to about $2,500. I gave him an additional $500.00 which he finally did take... not just for his extra supervision of others (that he throughly enjoyed doing and did so well with a very gentle touch) and jumping over here when I needed him and answering my 1,000+ questions about everything, but for caring about this job as if it were his own home. (I also gave him a like-new circular saw that I used only once some months ago and have been too scared to use again.) I also gave him 2 referrals that have turned into good jobs for him. Really, I feel like I owe him so much more! I think there are some real GEMS out there at reasonable cost that just need to be found. Of course with your budget and plans, you need more than a lone super-dedicated carpenter, but I'm hoping you'll find a firm or KD or GC or all three that will be your "George!" Note to Lovestocook -- I found 2 great Mauviel pieces at Home Goods! More great gems at...

I haven't been following your range-wall discussion close enough. Did you consider putting three uppers of the same height on either side of the hood (clearing the beam on the left) and putting your pottery above the cabinets? Before you commit to hanging your uppers high with a shallow shelf below, I'd sort out what you plan to store on that shallow open shelf so you know how much clearance you need. Id probably hang the uppers so the bottom is standard height (18-20" above counter) or level with the hood. I think it was jillius who posted in the recent rule-breaking thread about her choice and the benefits of hanging her uppers at exhaust hood height. eta: are you giving the exhaust hood a few inches on each side or are the uppers right up next to the hood? I think it looks much better when there's space around the hood. Also, did folks already encourage you to get a hood wider than your range? That's a lesson I learned too late, after our kitchen was roughed in and kind of wished I would have done.

I have to wonder if the costs for materials will ever come down...I’m in the middle of a remodel right now. Everything is delayed, subs are busy, everything takes longer. Luckily I’m fine with that- I appreciate the extra time I had to choose finishes and make decisions. I agree with those who suggest you start by getting quotes from a few GCs. That would give you some ballpark figures at least, even if you ultimately decide to be your own GC. Like Aprilneverends, I sourced my lighting fixtures (and many other things for the project) from vintage stores, FB Marketplace, eBay, Etsy and Craigslist. I’m a big believer in buying secondhand- you can get better quality for less money.