Real Photos + Cost$$ : IKEA Cabinets + Scherr's Solid Shaker Doors
Renov8or
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Scherrs vs Ikea vs Kraftmaid or other
Comments (33)Ikea uses metal boxes. My guess is that it is the lower grade of Tandembox from Blum since Ikea uses Blumotion for drawer runners. Tandemboxes come in lacqured metal or stainless steel. Tandemboxes can be used with their Orgaline of drawer inserts that look very much like Ikea drawer inserts. I am not sure if Blum makes the ones that Ikea uses or not. But... If you wanted to change the standard dovetail hardwood drawers with Tandembox from Blum, a typical custom cabinet maker considers that an upgrade and charges quite a bit for the Tandemboxes. So what you are getting with the Ikea is an upgrade from the standard drawers. HOWEVER, you do get the MDF boxes which is considered "less" durable than plywood. (I am just quoting the industry saying.) So Ikea boxes/drawers are a mixed bag in terms of "perceived" quality... Having said that, I really like the Tandembox drawers and I only looked at custom cabinet makers that offered that option. I think it is a HUGE functional improvement from the standard dovetail boxes because the accessories are so well designed and easy to use. I would say to go for it with the Ikea boxes with custom fronts. Let us know how it turns out. (I considered that option seriously for us. I actually picked the custom route for myself.) http://www.blum.com/pdf/BUS/3063_tbx_fb/3063_tbx_fb.pdf...See Moreshaker style- 5 piece drawer door or solid?
Comments (17)I go with cloud_swift's idea. Although my eye is anal, so I'd have the line of 5-panel going straight across. There are drawers that are just too short to warrant the stiles and rails. Those, I'd go with slab. The larger drawers, where you could actually see the recessed panel, would be where I'd go 5-panel. It's the same with tall, skinny cabinets. 9" cabinets wouldn't show the detail! The rails and stiles would be right next to each other! The detail does show, even with darker cabinets. A pure slab is very much more modern -- unless they're inset. But you haven't mentioned which. As much as you talk about your handles and pulls, they're still going on a door or drawer. The detail behind them -- or lack thereof -- will change how the jewelery is showcased. I'd suggest just being consistent. Maybe all the top, skinny drawers slab, with the larger, lower drawers being detailed. You chose this because you liked it in the first place. Are you settling?...See MoreCost/benefit analysis of Ikea cabinets
Comments (73)So we went to Ikea yesterday and love the bjorket, which matches the existing wood in the house pretty well (and it doesn't have to be an exact match as no cabinets will be installed right next to the door). I don't remember if anyone already told me this, but the smallest drawer fronts are plain, so I wouldn't have to have *all* shaker drawers. Also found out it's being discontinued, which sucks. They said they have plenty right now, but who knows how long that's going to last. I'm frustrated because I can't imagine starting this until the fall at the very earliest, and now I feel pressured to make a decision on the cabinets. I think I have narrowed my options down to two, both of which would use Ikea boxes (which we would probably assemble ourselves): 1) buy bjorket doors and drawer fronts, having the uppers treated and painted white, and accepting that some of my drawers will be shaker; save money or 2) buy shaker doors and plain drawer fronts from a cabinet company, having the uppers painted white and the lowers stained birch; spend more *we bought a drawer front and it says it was, in fact, made in China...See MoreNatural walnut shaker kitchen cabinets - solid vs veneer?
Comments (3)Walnut can certainly show a good deal of variance in grain structure and color/tone. Mahogany is notoriously bad for this as well. A lot of times, when a cabinet shop purchases material, that solid wood may not be coming from the same trees or forest as the veneers are. This is where "Standard", "Select", and "Premium" grades usually come in. There needs to be a selection process prior to assembly to ensure that the grain structure or colors are going to match in the end. This slows down the process, ergo + labor, + lost opportunity cost in the shop -BUT- a more uniform product in the end. With veneers, you may be paying extra for grain matching, book matching, or slip matching—which can get very expensive, very fast. All of these things drastically increase the amount of attention needed in manufacturing and it caters the entire assembly/milling process to whatever the end-goal is. As for finding or making frame-and-panel doors that are entirely veneered... We can't speak to that since it's something we don't do. The only benefits I can imagine this has is driving price down, speeding up production, and allowing greater control for a uniform color/tone. All of this at the cost of a product that looks real, but... isn't. EDIT: I realize I never answered the last part of that question. If a person has the mindset that when a door gets scratched or dented then it needs to get replaced then a veneer door will last just as long as a solid wood door, with the exception being water damage. More specifically, what I'm talking about here is a door's ability to remain looking presentable until it needs to be addressed. In this case, veneered doors and solid doors will last a similar amount of time. When talking about durability, a door's ability to "hold up over time", IF you have the mindset to fix or refinish a door, is where a solid wood door will shine. Because the veneer on a veneered panel is so thin (industry standard in the US is about 0.6mm, premium veneers can get thicker), we're talkin' less than a 1/32", it becomes incredibly difficult to sand through a finish and stop at the veneer in a repeatable, time-efficient manner. With solid wood, you can work a little bit past your finish and sand into the surface of the wood and there will still be more wood... because it's 100% solid wood! Solid wood doors, if they're made from a nice species of wood will likely be worth the time and effort to refinish, thereby increasing their lifespan. A decent finish should last at least 8-10 years. A great finish will last 15+ years, depending how they're handled. Keep in mind, completely refinishing doors isn't cheap. Many times, a good finish can be 75%-100% the total cost of the unfinished doors themselves. If cabinet doors get refinished professionally, you will get charged for the normal cost of a good quality finish, PLUS the time/labor of sanding through the old finish and making repairs. All of that will cost maybe 75% the total value of the original doors (including their original finish) but should cost less than buying new solid wood doors. If you're a DIY-er or you "know a guy", many times you can get this done cheaper. Be warned though, good finishing requires a lot of experience, talent, and quality products....See MoreRenov8or
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