Please help with closet layout

Gennadiy Baturin

4 years ago

My master bedroom closet is mess!

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To make things worse, there is a heater pipe enclosure in the middle of it.

Perhaps, I can make it a little smaller and still be within the code, but it will save me 8 or 10 inches.

And this is the plan:

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I like the idea to make shelves on one side only, something like this one:

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but in this case I will loose about 30 in wide of the storage place.

Not sure if I want to build the shelves the same way they are now, in L-shape, because the corner is not really useful behind pipe enclosure.

Also I do not think that building the shelves on the same side with the door is a good idea, will the place be too much cramped?

This is the plan that I have, but I am afraid it is not enough space for me and Mrs. for our closes

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What is the best way for my closet shelves?

Thanks!

Featured Answer

bhoorame

4 years ago

Neat Design! Could you move the door or close the area besides pipe enclosure. If so, you could have shelves both sides.

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Comments (7)

Gennadiy Baturin
Original Author
4 years ago
I did not think about moving the door, but it is an option I can look at
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If I were you'd I'd pose this question to Bevangel--often found in the building forum (you can locate a post by her, click her name, then email her through GW to ask her to post on this). She is very knowledgable about accessible homes/baths, etc. From another post she commented on: "Any room or closet that you want to make wheelchair accessible needs to have a wide enough door (32" minimum) for a wheelchair to get thru. Accessible bathrooms need to have a 5' diameter circle of clear floor space so that a wheel-chair can get turned around in them." So, I worry, right off the bat, that your bathroom isn't wide enough. Plus, having a glass shower front means you won't be able to put in a grab bar on that wall for use for a weaker person to get on/off the toilet.... I think that wall needs to be solid, at least from the half-way point down. If you cannot, under any circumstances move the shower's location, then I would make the closet narrower--at 4' wide only, and give the rest to the bathroom. If you can afford to cut the slab for a shower drain only (this won't be that expensive, in the grand scheme of things...), I'd try moving the shower to across from the sink/toilet and all the way "down" to the wall. Then, have your closet run across the right wall. If you draw that out, you might find you can get a wider area in the center of the bathroom for accessibility. Or, since it is a fairly square space (10x11) you might find that extra expense isn't worth it. Finally, I'd consider making the whole 10x11 space bathroom/linen closet, and building a closet on the door side of the bedroom (just a reach in). Bathroom space would look like a long bath, with lots of space in the "front"/bottom of it. And, along the bottom wall could be a reach in closet or cabinetry set up. This would give you the turning radius needed as well.
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This is kind of a "walk in but then don't move" closet. That's OK - I have one of those too.....mine is a touch wider (5.5'), but shorter. I agree that putting a hanging rack against the long wall will leave you with just under 3' of space between the racks and the wall (with the doorway), but that's still enough to stand there and choose what you're looking for; I know, because I've been doing exactly that for 12 years. However, it means you can't really put any storage furniture along the wall with the doorway.......So now you've got the back wall for hanging racks (you can do multi levels), and a very small amount of depth for shelves or a set of drawers at each short end. If you make the shelves on the short sides too deep (even where it won't bump into the doorway), it will conflict with the hanging clothes - either you won't be able to get to the shelves, or you wont' be able to get to the hanging things. (Of course, you could use a corner under a hanging rack for seasonal storage, only getting in there two or three times a year to switch out swimsuits and sandals for sweaters and thermal underwear.) You can still get creative with some of the space along the wall with the archway, using it for things that really have no depth to storing them -- a rack for belts or scarves, for instance, or maybe hanging jewelry storage. Also, remember to think about YOUR (collective) personal clothing storage needs, which aren't the same for everyone. I have very little need for full-length hanging space, for instance, as I wear almost no dresses. That means I can use half-height hanging space, and still have space for drawers and/or shelves beneath them......all my jeans and casual pants hanging over a chest of drawers.
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Patricia, I usually pick out my clothes the night before - saves me the mad dash of what to wear in the morning, before I'm fully awake. I recently did an overhaul of our closets (DH and I have separate ones). We have a chest of drawers in the bedroom, so I was OK for drawers, but I added shelving for both of us. I use mine for jeans, shorts, sweatpants, shoes (not nearly as many as you show), heavy fleece tops (that take up too much room if they hang). I have a double rod. My few dresses are on a rack that hangs on the back of the closet door. The high shelf above my clothes is for out of season stuff. We live in North Dakota, so there is a big difference between summer and winter wardrobe.
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PRO
BeverlyFLADeziner
4 years ago
I find this the easiest and least expensive system out there. It is available through a number of retailers. You don't want anything that sits on your floor in case you ever change the flooring.

purge purge purge your closet of items that have not been worn in the last year.

http://www.easytrack.com/

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Easy-Track-RB1460-4-To-8-Deluxe-Closet-Starter-Kit-White/23086584

https://www.wayfair.com/brand/bnd/easy-track-b18171.html?&experiencetype=1
Gennadiy Baturin
Original Author
4 years ago
Thanks, Beverly! I am going to install new hardwood floors there. It will be a long term solution. In this case DIY custom made shelves will be more flexible option.

Cleaning the closet is a good option too :) Thanks!
jpp221
4 years ago
You are learning why the much heralded walk in closet (the must have of the 2010s) is not all it’s made out to be. Unless the closet is very deep, it’s no better than the strip closet that you otherwise would have gotten; it’s a strip close with a hallway in front (but a hallway that is too narrow to do much besides stand in). With that said, it seems to me that you have to inventory your needs. Right now, your closets look full, but not overly so, while at the same time, at just about capacity. Other than the empty shelf above the hangers, there’s really no empty space. So, where’s the problem? Do you need more shelves (are you hanging things you’d rather put on a shelf)? Do you need drawers (for socks or underclothing)? How much of that stuff do you have? (Do you have dressers in the presumably adjoining bedroom, or is this it?) I think you have to go through all that first. But ultimately, if a box is “x” cubic square feet, and you have used up all “x” of it (with no air space), you won’t get more in there by rearranging the shape and order of things. It’s like trying to be taller by chopping off your head and standing on it.
AnnKH
4 years ago
I am not a fan of wire shelving int he closet - especially the kind you have, where you can't slide hangers from one side to the other. as long as you are replacing, I would install separate rods, with shelves as needed.

Having 2 rods in the left-hand side seems to make sense - it looks like you have more need for short hanging than long (dresses). Perhaps you could move the rods down a bit, so you can use the shelf up above - looks like your suitcase could fit up there, if you had a little more room.

On the right side, perhaps put a rod for long hanging along the back wall, if 21" is enough. Position the rod to maximize shelving above or below - whichever you find more useful. In my DH's closet, I put his clothes rod as high as I can reach, with shelves below - it's very efficient use of space.

On the right wall, you can install shelves 36" wide - that should give you room to easily access the hanging clothes. I would use boxes or something to determine how much access space is needed, so you can have shelves as wide and deep as possible.

When installing shelves, make sure you put in enough shelves so you don't have to stack a lot of things. I have shelves that are just far enough apart for shoes; others are spaced far enough apart to stack a few pairs of jeans or sweaters.

Have fun with your project, and be sure to come back with "after" photos!
PRO
Ronna Rosenberg
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Hi speaking as a closet designer I would approach the following BEFORE buying a system

1) Take your inventory of long hang/short hang

2) Follow advice from the pro who mentioned purge!

3) Do your shoe math: measure the width of a pair of shoes and use that as your "x" to determine the width of the shelf. For example if your pair of shoes are 8" wide across you want a shoe shelf that is either 16" W , or 25" or 32"

4) Once you determine the above inventory get a closet system that will fit the widths

Please help with closet layout

bhoorame

Comments (7)

Gennadiy Baturin
Original Author

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Please help with closet layout

bhoorame

Comments (7)

Gennadiy BaturinOriginal Author

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Gennadiy BaturinOriginal Author

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Gennadiy Baturin
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Gennadiy Baturin
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