This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

My $.02: I don't think picture-frame wainscoting is stylistically appropriate or practical for a bathroom. Also, painted MDF could seem cheap, especially in a home with solid wood wainscoting in other rooms, and I'm not sure how it would hold up it in a room/climate that is subject to mold. While I like true beadboard in vintage baths, it's often used just because it's trendy, fast, and cheap (if you use any of the various imitation beadboard products). Beadboard would look good with your Memoirs toilet and pedestal sink, but may seem too cottage-y for the rest of your house. My first preference would be for tile wainscoting, which need not be expensive in a small space if you shop around and do the tiling yourself. Are you really sure you can't use it? Unless the seasonal movement is really extreme (in which case you must have problems with all of your walls and wainscoting), you should be able to use tile as long as you have the proper surface, use small tiles, and flexible grout. (I'm no expert, but that's what I've been told.) Another option would be to simply install a chair rail around the perimeter of the room. You could then use different colors for the upper and lower walls, or paint the lower wall and use wallpaper or stenciling on the upper part (although extreme house movement could sabotage wallpaper).

@MongoCT I was considering throwing a piece of drywall over the wall right wall but after thinking about it, i decided to just repaint the upper half and cover the bottom half with beadboard. Ultimately, we are planning to turn it into a full bath by taking down the right wall (probably won't happen for a few yrs as we are looking to do much more extensive work on the 2nd floor) so i didn't want to make the demolition harder than it needs to be when the time comes. Thx for the suggestions.

Hi Sophie, I have seen the "wrap" you link above. This is not a option for me. It would cover the window. And it is very flimsy. But the replacing the plumbing is a great idea when I do the other walls. But I can only focus on the back wall right now due to budgeting issues. Safety first, looks laters. BTW the laminate on the wall was put in by the original builder did remolding in the late 60's. I have alway used a back shower curtain to protect the back wall, The whole bathroom walls are covered from floor to 4 ft with this same color laminate/Formica. I know ---I need to get you guys better pictures. Also the original builder was a farmer who built it for his son- in- law. Not a professional. He cut corners and did not spend any money to do things correctly. I have over the years correct some major mistakes, but now I can not. All I can do is simple stuff.