Winter protection time
bklyn citrus (zone 7B)
5 years ago
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Comments (41)
bklyn citrus (zone 7B)
5 years agoRelated Discussions
? for those who have wrapped their trees for winter protection
Comments (3)There isn't a consensus amongst the community of horticultural gurus about wrapping trees to help with winter sunscald. Around here we do recommend wrapping thin-barked trees like linden, honeylocust, and especially red maple because we have such a great fluctuation in winter temperatures. A logical explanation (one of several) is that the low south and west winter sun warms bark and tends to create a false break in dormancy in the cells on those sides of the tree during warmer spells. Then when hard cold weather returns the cells are damaged, often killed. The WHITE geotextile wrap makes the most sense to me. Its light color doestn't heat the trunk as much and it dries out quickly after receiving moisture. Ken is correct in that it is better to wrap late vs. too soon. It is not the cold, but as he says, the warmth in winter that hurts the bark. If you wrap your trees, be sure to start at the bottom and wrap to the top so that the overlap sheds as much moisture as possible. Do not use tree wrap over damaged areas that are already exposing dead wood as this can promote fungal activity. Three or four turns of electrical tape at the top and bottom works pretty well to hold the wrap until the tree leafs out the following spring, when the wrap should be removed to prevent harboring insects. Hope this helps... hortster...See Morewinter pics!!! post them!!!!!! especially winter protected ones
Comments (99)Wow! If anyone says we are having a greenhouse affect, I will, blank my pants! lol Those temps are just ridiculous! Whhat gives? I can't beleive the snow you had Mike and for that area. Good golly! looks like you are just about to engulf your greenhouse into an igloo very soon as I did..lol Now, what's next, tornados? I is such a good feeling to ee the temps in there that warm right, those lucky trees. I lost my heat last night, ran out of oil. It was 55 in my home this am and it was 68 in the greenhouse. I almost slept in there this am.. Mike: The one thing that ALWAYS scares me, especially this time of the year is loosing the electricty while asleep or not home! Luckily, that is the one thing I can be grateful for. Pgde!!!! Now that is a bad dream you had! Oh wait, is that the real Macoy? Ice hanging from the fountain way down there in Tuscon? Your kidding, right?... What about your trees? How are they doing? Wow, and yet beautiful.. Unbeleivable... I will come back and show a few shots of my snow too, since it hasn't stopped for over a month. A snow storm about every two days! Mike...See MoreHelp with winter protection for newly planted 6 foot emerald cedars!!
Comments (19)Hello ! So I am in the simcoe county area in Wasaga Beach ontario. I have 17 beautiful now 3 year old emerald cedars at 7 ft now. I back onto forest and get crazy wind from the bay. I COVER MY CEDARS and in 3 moves in 8 years with this being my 3rd hedge I’ll tell you why ...... WIND + animals. All the cedars in my area are brown, bare in the bottom or bare throughout. Rabbits go after the base, deer everything else. The wind here almost gives the cedars a wind burn. I never believed in tightly burlaping anything. I string up the cedars incase of freezing rain or in the case of this year lots of heavy snow, I then stake a wall front and back, then burlap the wall. I use a steel gaged fence tied to the post and burlap over too. Yes it’s excessive but I see the damage of uncovered, half eaten cedars. When I lived closer to Toronto I only saw damage from cedars out in the open exposed to our winter winds. At this point with how full and tall my cedars are I’m not about to start swapping out ones that die. Not to mention my neighbour who works at 4am (I still live in a subdivision) see’s deer stalking my cedar ‘Berlin wall’ a few times a week. It’s not attractive, neighbours don’t mind one bit and come spring I have no issues. My other neighbours had issues and did the same after replacing 6/9. You can use other materials other then steel gaged fence it is pricer I did it because the winter winds here are nuts and COLD the burlap without the support just caves in, I do it come November and no touch ups or issues until End of March / early April I take it down then reuse the same materials come fall. At this point the steel fence costs less then having to replace each tree. I also in the fall but those fertilizer spikes you hammer into the ground and put one for each tree/shrub it seems to do wonders. I water up until end of October. They are established but like anything else hot days - dry streaks I do my best and water everything. In our area the nurseries all agreed to cover the area around the trees but not cover completely allowing them to adjust to the temperature and as well snow won’t hurt them one bit just keep them twined incase of freezing rain etc...See MoreWinter protection in zone 6 or lower... Seil, I'm looking at you!
Comments (8)I agree that wrapping climbers is more work than it's worth and can backfire by not helping much. In my zone 5 Nebraska windy windy climate with little snow cover, I do provide wind breaks at the edge of all my rose beds and around any roses that I've discovered are finicky. My method is a lazy one - I pinch the filled leaf bags from the curbs of folks in my neighborhood and stand them up around the more tender roses on the windy side or all around if feasible (not as likely for climbers). This creates effective "down coats" for the more tender roses and can buy me a zone's worth of protection without any moisture remaining next to the canes for risk of canker. In spring, I dump the leaves in the beds to replace the mulch that disintegrated over the winter, or pull the bags to a side spot for use later in the summer. Lazy mulching and weed protection too... Ameri2nal is right that you need to wait for this till the ground is frozen solid so that you don't get critters taking over your protection. For me, this is usually around Christmas. Don't worry about the cold leading up to that - you want them to go as dormant as they'll get, and you're mostly creating a windbreak. For your climbers, I've grown them all and by far the hardiest is Westerland. That one doesn't really need much protection, but as Seil says if you can keep surviving cane on a climber that's just more growth for the spring. Mel's Heritage is touchy at surviving even in zone 7, and it's a long shot even in a virtual zone 6 where I had mine (it died without even pretending to survive an average winter). If you protect only one, I'd try that one. Bleu Magenta has never gotten big enough to climb for me, and it also has died on me twice over the winter. Aschermittwoch has also died once, but I've got it in a different spot and we'll see. The goofy colored lavender and grey roses tend to be less hardy than other colors on average, so again you may be looking at some protection or replacing them with more reliable climbers for our zone. Hope this helps - it's worth a try regardless of whether you protect or not. Cynthia...See Moremyermike_1micha
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5 years agoTheyCallMeDave
5 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
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5 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
5 years agosocalnolympia
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
5 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
5 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
5 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
5 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agobklyn citrus (zone 7B)
5 years ago
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