Concave or convex?

Just got the pic up! Thanks for any input.

Is the molding pulled away from the wall, or is it actually too short to cover the gap (vertically)?

Hello Mimi - Do you mean if we used a "taller" molding, would it cover the gap? This is the only spot like that, not sure if that is an option, it would be inappropriately high. The molding here isn't nailed down yet. There are small gaps in other places, but a thin line of paint (dear husband hopes, lol) will cover.

Yes, just trying to figure out if there is a gap vertically (molding too short) or a gap between the molding and the wall, where the molding won't stay against the wall, because of a curve in the drywall... you mentioned "warp" so I assumed it was just pulled out from the wall and you are trying to get it to adhere back against the wall somehow.

In the picture it is difficult for me to tell which situation you have.

Gotcha! It's the drywall that is "warped".

O.K. so, an additional nail or construction adhesive. Then caulk and paint. Choose good adhesive if you decide to use it. There is one that grabs fast and well... Loctite?

Hope this helps.

Thanks for that caulk suggestion! In sitting here looking at it, we were wondering if using a short piece of molding through this area might work? Would it be visible to picky wife?

Do you mean cutting a piece out and putting a short piece in between the two ends? I really wouldn't do that.

I'm pretty picky myself :) What is the trim made of? Is it the original trim? Wood, one of the plastic composite types? It doesn't look very thick or tall.

So here's the thing. When my home was built I thought all my trim was perfect. Then I realized nothing is perfect. Go look at painter's caulk. It's used to go along the top edge and fill in the crack between wallboard and trim. If that crack is around an 1/8" and you caulk it and paint it, you will never notice it again. See Sambah006 comment above.

Hi Mimi - Yes, a short piece of molding in that spot. The (new) trim is wood. Previously there was wainscoting which covered up the problem (see below, "in progress"). I like the superglue solution!

Is it perhaps the studs under the drywall that has a bow in it? Drywall will often simply follow the shape of the structure.

Wood studs are often not straight and have to be shaved before the drywall is applied.

O.K. I see. Well, nothing is perfect (hard to believe, I know). I don't think a short piece of molding is a good idea- I think it will show more than just caulking the gap, and you may have a bigger issue trying to get a short piece of trim to stay firm against the wall. I would yry the caulking first if it's a narrow gap. If it's a larger gap, I would try the adhesive/nail then the caulking. Then paint the trim / touch-up the wall as needed. It will just disappear.

Really, this kind of gap happens all the time because walls aren't perfect.

I put a chair rail up years ago and was astounded to see how the wall was "wavy"!

Is there a reason you are using quarter round for a moulding, instead of regular base board ?

@Tony Stevens - unfortunately that's above our paygrade!! Thanks everyone for your suggestions, this is baseboard (not 1/4 round) and we're going to give the glue and nail option a try. Hopefully this is the worst problem in our update to the house!!

Irresponsible speculation: it may be that your house's original builder specified the wainscot, so the drywall finishers didn't sweat the area under it so much.

I have to say, I like the wainscot in the second photo. But then, I'm kind of traditional about such matters. Your house, your choice.

If, it is part of the wall. Why not just fill and skim it with compound until it is flat with the rest of the wall? You will need a wide 12" drywall knife.

It is too skimpy looking for a base molding in any scenario, Look into replacing entirely, finish nails....caulk, paint, the works : )

You need actual baseboard .

@DavidR - not "irresponsible", most likely correct, we are 3rd owners and bought the home when it was ~12 years old. . .the wainscoting looks very good with the Stickley cherry set, we're "updating". . .

The baseboard is 2 1/4 inch hemlock, it looks shorter because of camera angle, this photo is in another room where we've used it. We had drywall repair/texturing done after pulling wallpaper and wainscoting in nook (and kitchen), unfortunately drywall/texturing/etc. is not our bailiwick. Husband is most concerned about nailing into drywall to hold curved wood to wall, I would assume glue would help. A thin piece of shimmed wood between molding and drywall also?

Thanks again everyone for your comments! Even if we don't apply it here, ideas and information are part of the educational process.

You can use hot glue. There are hot glue rated for permanent adhesion. Dries in minutes.

G&S, thanks for the tip on hot glue! I am going to look into that as it may come in handy one day. Nice that you have Stickley furniture Laura,... lovely stuff.

Yes, thanks G&S!!!

Mimi - Craigslist is my friend. . . :)