Take a needleless syringe and fill it with water. Coat the deworming tablet with butter and put it in a pet piller. Sit down with the cat between your knees and grab him by the scruff. Lift only his front feet off the floor an inch or two. Squirt a few drops of water into the side of his mouth. This will wet his throat and make swallowing easier. Using the piller, immediately place the wormer as far back in his mouth as possible. Immediately follow that with more water (a few drops at a time) from the syringe. The water will force swallowing before the cat has time to spit the pill out. Keep giving a few drops of water at a time until you are certain the pill has been swallowed. ONLY AFTER THE PILL IS SWALLOWED, lower the cat's front feet back down to the ground. I, personally, don't usually use a piller when using this technique. I wrap the pill in a Pill Pocket and place it in his mouth after the "pre-wetting" drops of water, then immediately chase it down with more water. I find that if the pill is in a Pill Pocket, the cat won't generally fight as hard to spit it out. BUT, it is easier to get bitten when not using a piller, which is why I described its use above. The water and holding the cat's front end off the floor an inch or two are the real keys to the success of this method. Laurie

If you are able to keep her out of your sleep area altogether do so. I had an elderly cat that started peeing in a walkway. I tried everything else and finally placed a litterbox over the spot--which luckily worked. Possibly if you moved your bed away from the area a bit and placed a litterbox right there it would help, but imo this cat has found a way to get your immediate attention with some other aim in mind, such as going outside or being fed. You could also try placing him or her in a crate, with a tiny litterbox into which you place the cleanup materials from his or her recent "accident" to see if that would get the message across, but it has to be done instantly after the transgression. Additionally, if the cat is allowed to go outside, you could give it tasty cat treats each time it signals a desire to go outside to you. It is highly possible that cat has been sending you signals that you have not been picking up on, and it is treating you like Helen Keller was by her teacher. Read up a bit on cat communication strategies and see if that will help.

Thanks for keeping us updated. It's good to read he's starting to feel better!! One of our members gave me this link about canned food when I thought I was having trouble with crystals in my cat. It was a great wealth of reliable information for me. It took me a long time to find a canned my cat would eat (and it's junk canned that she settled on) but the article said that even junk canned is better than dry food. I still leave dry food out as a back-up but my indoor cats primarily eat the wet as the main source of their diet. Here's the link below that you might want to read for further information. Here is a link that might be useful: Cat Info. Org

Several comments: 1) unless your cat is old, has diabetes, renal failure or some other degenerative condition, it is unlikely your cat has a urinary tract infection (very rare in young cats, but not unheard of). Most of these cats with bladder issues that are uncomfortable and have blood in the urine have cystitis, but that does not necessarily mean infection, too. The causes of cystitis are many, from stress, diet, stones to 'idiopathic' (i.e.. no obvious identifying cause). It is such a common problem in feline medicine, it has its own name: FIC (Feline idiopathic cystitis), or the old name was FLUDT (Feline lower urinary tract disease). 2) but one things is for sure, your cat is uncomfortable. ONe of the main things that should be considered in any cat that is urinating blood, straining, crying when urinating, or urinating inappropriately is the potential pain issue. Pain relief alone can make many of these cats better. You might ask your vet for some help in this area. 3) Diet is a big area of concern and should always be addressed. Canned food is a FAR better choice for any cat with bladder issues for several reasons. One is canned food is mostly water, so cats that eat only canned food urinate more, and urinating more empties the bladder more, and emptying the bladder more can result in emptying it of irritating substances such as crystals and mucus (often the cause OR result of straining and bleeding). But possibly more importantly is the carbohydrate issue, which many specialists are considering to be a big deal when it comes to 'happy bladders' in cats. Canned food (MOST canned foods, not all) are lower in carbohydrates- significantly lower. Dry foods all have carbs with a minimum of around 22%... But carbs are really not part of a cat's natural diet and a diet of maybe 7% or less would be far better. So I suggest if your cat is amenable to this, feed her a pate canned food only- no dry. Many cats in my practice have been made symptom free by just switching to canned food.. and my own cat was 'cured' this way when my professor in vet school told me to do the same thing despite my arguing with him that I was sure she had a bladder infection (of course I turned out to be wrong). 4) the 'stress' issue is a bit harder to resolve or diagnose, but stress alone can cause cats to pee blood and be uncomfortable. Your cat's loss of another cat, or having fleas, could have stressed her out some... but most of the time, we humans really have no idea what is stressing a cat. But adding more litter boxes, giving meds to reduce stress and using pheromone diffusers can all help resolve or at least improve these kittie's stress. 5) and I mentioned stones up above... sometimes bladder stones can result from either a dietary issue (most common cause), infection (rare in young cats) or a genetic metabolic issue (not much to be done about that last one other than keep cat on canned food). But without an x-ray, this possibility cannot be ruled in or out. I know rads are costly, but they are one time only cost and worth it to diagnose some cats properly. Discuss these things with your vet and see what they say.