Hi Angie -- that's right! I'd forgotten about that underside runnel ... and I haven't seen it (though I might not have noticed) in a residential setting. Funny... It's a great idea though. I'd do it if I were you. I'm not sure there is a "Standard" overhang -- I think it depends where you live and whom you talk with. I think it must have been here that I read 1.5" was "Standard" and when it came time for me to discuss this with fabricators and the like, they all acted like I'd crawled in from Mars. And they charged me extra for the "extra" overhang. I do believe, though, it is nevertheless "standard" for some, despite the protestations I happened to receive. But I wouldn't assume anything! This was totally confusing to me so I'll try to spell it out. Please ignore if it's patently obvious to you: I'll call it a mini-treatise on overhang. (i) There is no standard overhang (ii) over hang is measured from the cabinet box ... or at least it can be. And hence the possibility for confusion. (iii) If you choose drawer fronts that do not "inset" right inside the cabinet box, then they will set on top of the front of that box, and add extra thickness. This comes out of the "overhang" measurement. Thus, if you have, say, frameless cabinets with 5/8" drawer fronts, and your fabricator says "Sure, sure, 1.5", standard overhang..." what that translates to, functionally, is (1.5" - 5/8" = 7/8") overhang. That's less than an inch. Thus it is possible for everyone to do as you specified, sort of, and still wind up with less overhang than you'd anticipated. I had them cut "2" overhangs", from which the 5/8" was subtracted resulting in a little less than 1.5" overhangs. It's enough. But it was a fight! And one that I'm glad I put up. And also, remember that your drawer fronts usually have a little cushion they will sit on on top of the cabinet box, a pad or something -- that takes away a teensy bit more depth too. However, it was never clear to me during the skirmish why there was all this miscommunication. But I understand now; it depends where you're measuring from. As a homeowner/user, I don't care about the box at all; I don't pay attention to it. It's the drawer's front panel that matters to me, where it ends. But the contractors sometimes don't even *see* those drawer fronts so they completely ignore the issue. A real miscommunication. My experience at least. One more thing. I've whined about this a bunch but I just spent several moments ruing my ogee edges all over again. A day never goes by when I don't at least once, usually several times. I hate em. Lots of folks on here love em; I don't. This time it was bits of eggshell -- can't sweep it into the compost bucket. They get stuck, hide, on the little swoopy edge. Someone mentioned that also not-standard may be the angle of the ogee. Another had probably tighter curves and loved theirs very much; it could be that mine are very "lazy" and better catch stuff. It is the one thing I regret the most about my kitchen (which means I'm overall as happy as a clam; I admit this is not exactly calamitous). But I do want to mention, that I felt this, dunno, "glamour-pressure" to sex up the counter edges and yet, function is the most important thing to me and for some reason I just glazed over that consideration. If you're a stickler for function, you might want to consider skipping the whole countertop edge thing. Wish I had! Oh -- except I would, given the ability to choose again, ask for mitred edges, as opposed to standard. Both wind up straight but the mitred blends the swirls of the stone's pattern and the sandwich has a random-looking join - with very happening stone it can make quite the lightening streaks. Not sure whether this was depicted in the posted options.

Thank you all for your input. The installer came back out and showed me were the imperfection is with the sink. The side were it looks crooked, or uneven, is almost concave in the center of the side of the sink, so it's almost impossible to cut a piece so that it looks straight. He said that if he cut it to size, then the center of that piece would be a lot smaller in width than the rest of it, and it will be even more obvious of a flaw if it is changed. He did give me the option to re-install a new piece, but now I think it will look even more obvious if it's changed. It never even crossed my mind that this would even be a problem. All of the kinks in the road that have popped up are driving me slightly bonkers. :) So, now it seems as if I have to live with a crooked looking piece of countertop, or a crooked looking piece of countertop. In other words, it's a win-win situation.

I have a slight positive reveal on my sink and I really like it. I looked at displays with all three and decided I liked this the best. I did not want to lose any of the sink area with counter overhang and wanted the sides of the sink to show. I have clear caulking and it doesn't show at all. The sink is very easy to keep clean, I use Bar Keepers Friend, and the sink edges just don't get dirty. Once the kitchen is done and you are working in it, you won't notice these little items at all. Enjoy your new kitchen.

I wouldn't say there is a Right Way, or a Wrong Way (barring incompetence, of course!). But you need to decide: 1. undermount vs upmount (undermount is far more common). 2. How proud (forward) will it sit (i.e. hang off the cabinet). 3. What reveal? Positive reveal (some of the lip showing, as in the photo above), neutral reveal (counter edge lines up with sink), or negative reveal (counter overhangs sink). GW'ers have different opinions here on which reveal looks best and works best for them. 4. Finally, there is the caulk. What color? Here are my personal biases: undermount (easier to sweep stuff into sink, and protects top rim of sink from getting damaged), very slight negative reveal--about a sixteenth (I just like the look of this--sink is sort of nestled in, and you don't see the caulk. I just don't like caulk). Sitting proud a couple inches. Clear caulk--less visible than white. Again, those are just my opinions. The "proud" issue was the only one I kept waffling on. I kept schooching the sink forward and backward for several days to decide exactly where I wanted it. Oh--almost forgot! Related to the "proud issue" is how you want the counter to sit on the front edge of the sink. I obsessed about that one for WEEKS. But I'm very obsessive... I'll provide some pictures and commentary, and you can shake your head over how obsessive I am! Here are some of my photos after installation. Note: the caulk looks white b/c it was fresh. It turned clear, and is invisible. In this photo, you can see how the negative reveal looks. Also, this is where I fussed over the alignment of the front edge of the counter with the lip of the sink. I ended up having the counter line up with the inner lip line of the sink. This is a common positioning, but I tried pulling the sink farther forward as well. I also tried pusing the sink back toward the wall more, because one might have less of a "gunk catcher" on the corner of the counter. Here you see white caulk, which is now clear, and just looks like it isn't even there (just a dark "line" that looks like a tight gap): It sits proud about 2.5 inches, and is shimmed up about 1/4 on the left side, because the front lip was very slanted. As a result, the sink doesn't drain! But oh well. I chose form over function! Trying to figure out how proud to make her. You can see my crayon lines on the sink. The photo is very proud. I ended up opting for that first line that you see.: Trying to figure out where the counter should line up, along with how proud to make her (connected issues): Hey--get outa my sink! Hope that helps a bit! :-) francy