John here are two closeups. The first picture shows the corners of the grates and the rolled edges. The cover is actually level to the edge. In the second picture you can see the top edge of the trough part of the drain is a finished edge, as you can step on this edge you wouldn't want to cut it down. The gap between the cover and the trough is predetermined in manufacturing. What probably should have been done to make sure it drained even better is for our first row of tile to be set at a slightly steeper angle. Then each row set after that would have continued on the upward slope. It's almost flat to the drain so the water can pool/collect just a little at this edge after the shower is shut off. The entire shower is sloped though so it drains really well while you're using the shower. I just use a squeegee and push the little pooling into the drain. You can see a bit of water marks in the bottom picture, typically I rub a bit of Turtle Wax on the grate covers when I clean them, buff them off, to prevent build up - also spray after each shower with a daily shower cleaner.

Sorry to tag on to the end of this thread, it's already a bit messy to say the least. I have spent countless hours researching linear drains and am at my wits end! Bathroom floor is dropped by 1-5/8" from floorboards (2-7/8" below wood floor in adjacent room) in a 56-1/4" x 90" area ready for this project. I need to place the drain as a barrier by the entry way spanning the entire 90". Cannot go against back wall easily because of joist limitation.Tile will be sloped in from 14" outside of the shower including capilliary break then up to the back wall, drawing NOT to scale! I will have wedge wire grate and two 2" ABS outlets in to a 3" ABS drain, so not overly concerned about flooding the bathroom. I am aware of the 3" drop and wet room requirements. My main dilemma is how to terminate the linear at each side wall. I saw photos in another forum where the wall tile 'tabs' in to the drain channel, drain channel extends under wall tile at each end. In order to do this could the entire floor and drain be finished first with channel extended about 3/4" past the intended plane of the finished wall? Silicone caulk the drain at each end. Then the walls could be floated in and the tab cut on the bottom of the two opposite tiles that would sit in the channel. Floor will be hot mopped (I'm in California), walls lath and mortar, and the floor also floated outside of shower area. I'm on a wooden sub floor obviously. Finally, I have narrowed my options down to site sizable QM Delmar or the DERA-Line. Both have pros and cons, does anyone have any advice as in 'stay away from' or any pointers re these two drains? I realise the DERA is cheaper, 304 S/S as opposed to 316. The DERA is custom made to exact length rather than site sizable as in the QM or I may not even be asking the question about the walls. I'm leaning in the DERA direction because price is getting high and the wife is pushing to avoid linear, which would pain me after getting this close. The Dera is coming in around $1100 vs $1500. I thoroughly appreciate any advice or guidance anyone can give. Btw, i am not doing the job personally, just due diligence to be 100% certain nothing is compromised or overlooked. Thanks very much in advance.

seems like it could be a tough one since smell is subjective (although there's probably something out there that can measure smell) plus if more than 1 of u can smell it that'll help. I'm just thinking ahead if u need to file a complain with the licensing board. How long has it been since u texted him? was a good with texts before? i hope he's getting in touch with who he will and then get back to u but would be nice if he let u know he got your msg and will deal with it. I have a very sensitive nose so this problem would be a big one for me. I just got a bunch of air purifiers and have been learning more about pure air. your nose is telling u something. glad u r listening to your body

I have a handicapped accessible shower floor that is 37 3/4 x 63 inches with a shallow trench drain at the point where it connects to the room floor. I put a second shower floor system outside of the shower, sloped to a drain. It consists of a set of sloped floor foam forms, drain, and uncoupling membrane by Kerdi. I am so glad that I put in the floor drain! In three years I have flooded the bathroom about three or four times with overflow from the shower drain. Twice were due to having a ridiculous amount of hair shedding during a shower, slowing the 4” square drain in the trench drain. Once may be due to not using my shower heads one at a time. Too much water for it to handle. My shower floor is solid surface (similar to Corian) and the manufacturer even designed in a 1/2 inch high dam that directs the water to the 4” drain. My trench is only 1/2 inch deep, due to it being part of the shower floor pan and not a metal drain that hangs down below the floor surface. I am sure that contributes to my need for my floor drain. You must make sure that your drain system can handle all the water you are giving it! Listen to the professionals who posted above.