Well, I was afraid it might be something like that. I had looked online at photos of different tomato problems but none matched exactly. The whole park's whopper plant looks like that so I guess I will have to pull it. I will also check the other plants thoroughly and remove anything that looks like it and follow up with Daconil. How often do you have to spray it? It is just so unusual for around here, usually we don't have any problems with things like that, that are caused from humid conditions. Is moisture the only cause of these diseases? I spent a little time reading about them and it seemed like everything I saw said it was caused by hot, humid conditions. Do you have any suggestions or tips on how I could prevent this from taking hold in the first place? I did everything that I have always read to do to prevent problems. I have all the tomatoes caged and up off the ground, I do not overhead water, and the ground is covered with mulch, I try to rotate my veggies as best as I can. We live in an extremely hot, dry climate and have had very little rain. I usually have more problems with spider mites than anything else, lol! Also what fertilizer would you recommend? I have read about so many different fertilizers and ways to do it that it makes my head spin! I need to get my soil tested this year, but is there anything that is just a general fertilizer that I can use until I get it tested? Thanks for your help!! Carly

Ugh - this is a 7 yr old thread and I'm having this exact issue. Sears has been out over 10 times and replaced almost every part and still the same problem. The DW does not make it past the wash cycle. Breaker has also been replaced so I'm not sure if this is really time for a new DW. Last thing I want is to purchase a new DW and the problem still persists.

I never liked Penofin but used Messmer's quite often. I no longer represent any product except for Wood Protect. This is a brand new technology that PENETRATES ANY specie of wood, specifically designed for Ipe, (I know the chemist.) It is water-based sealer and contains zero VOC's (exempt and non-exempt.) Penofin or any conventional "coatings" prevent water from getting into the substrate but they also prevent water from exiting, consequently allowing wood to rot from the inside (like cedar or pine) and dense species of wood to check and move (like ipe or cumaru.) The "black" you are experiencing is basically a cooked resin on your wood. If what is recommended to remove works, please advise, as I have yet to have any good results with traditional strippers. I've normally had to sand.

Yes but its not just the desired look. If cost is not a factor, anything is possible. But if you have not done a lot of remodeling, you may not be aware of all the associated costs with changing all this. The ceiling, the lighting, framing out the window and wall, matching and replacing the existing exterior. While maintaining the exterior design balance. Moving plumbing, gas and electrical. Your house was built for this kitchen so everything you are considering has major expense to change. You might be better off as far as function and design to bump out the back and redo the whole thing.