To answer my own question in case someone else is interested, I found this place http://fireplacesandbarbecues.com/ I spoke to them and they were very helpful. I should have my new doors in a few days.

Larson is pretty low end. When I sold them I had tons of problems with the "wood" core (particle board) delaminating rather quickly, They have a foam filled model which may be better but I am not a fan period. Look at Provia, expensive but you pay for what you get.......

The screws commonly supied with hings are woefully inadequate for the weight of most doors. Especially exterior doors. The screws need to be INCHES long to reach past the jamb and into the studs. NOT the less than one inch screws ta barely make it through the jamb. If you use brass screws, be sure to run a steel screw in first to almost full depth (1/8 to 1/16 short)) to avoid breaking off the much softer brass screws in a new hole. When I purchase a box of brass screws I ALWAYS purchase a couple steel screws of the same size (preferably with a Philips, Roberts, or other slot style) and throw them in the box.

Transnationalq- we are removing the load bearing wall on the parlor floor to have a large living/dining/kitchen space (open floorplan, for shame!) and are using a series of posts hidden in a powder room and pantry wall, plus one exposed post. Our townhouse is 21' wide, which is too wide to span without the posts. If your rooms are not as wide, you may be able to just use steel footed in the front and back. The other two floors will have posts in the same locations but hidden in bedroom walls (the current load-bearing wall is actually being completely removed, posts added top to bottom and then the walls will be built back in a slightly different space to make for wider hallways.) Our project is a complete gut plus an extension, so the whole thing is costing a fortune but the steel is not a small portion of the project. We likely could have gotten away without steel at all if our span was only 16' or less, but alas...the wide house needs the beam and the concrete footings. I don't have any pics that actually show the sagging in any capacity, but my profile picture shows the stairs which you can sort of see are pitched to the right (towards the center of the house.) We lived in the house with the current state of the floors (stadium seating) and it wasnt the worst, but it was pretty obvious in some rooms. On our top floor, the corner of one room where the rear facade is was about 2 inches higher than the middle of the room. Can't see it in pictures, but it was a very strong slope.