Thanks, is that about a two gallon can? The majority of the foliage which has yellowed seems older leaves, mostly lower on the plant and toward the interior of the bush. That is normal. Foliage requires good light exposure to produce more food than they require. Older foliage is continually shed after the plant reabsorbs the nutrients from it (turning it yellow) to push new growth. Your flowers have only recently shattered. It's too soon to expect that pot bound plant to push any new growth or flowers. The spotted foliage I can tell from the photo is that which has turned yellow. "Yellow" means the plant has sucked the sap from them. That reduces their immune system ability to resist diseases. If that bugs you, pick off all the yellowed foliage. Pinch off the spent flowers, leaving all the green leaves in place. Don't cut down the canes to remove those spent flowers. Leave all the wood and green foliage the plant already has. Plant it. There is nothing I see in that photo to indicate there is anything wrong with the plant other than: Stressed from being in the can too long. Stressed from having temperature, light, watering, etc., change from where it WAS to where it IS. Probably stressed from having the fertilizers the growers push into the plants to get them retail ready (so you'll buy them), mostly washed from the soil due to the frequent watering required to keep that size plant salable in that size pot. Ready to push out new growth once it gets some root room, more nutrients and probably more consistent soil temperature and moisture instead of more widely fluctuating moisture and temps being stuffed into that can subject it to. The foliage just under the flowers (the newest, youngest foliage and growth) appears just fine. It's the oldest and that which is shaded from the best sun exposure which appear to be yellowing. Expect that as that is what happens with ALL plants as they grow. Just provide for this one as you have the others you've grown for years, remembering this one is more "juvenile", more of a "baby" than the adults already in your garden. So, it's going to require a bit more attention and patience as the others did at that "age". Have fun! Kim

Faron, Thank you so much for writing back right away. You are so knowledgeable and generous with your time. I just want my walls to look nice and I was afraid if I skipped the primer, the paint may not stick. These forums (especially Michael) has taught me how important it is to prep the walls before painting and I can see how nice my other walls look by following this advice and making sure my painter did what I told him to do. But my bathroom was just painted and I am not changing the color much at all. I guess it is my fault for taking a shower too soon in the room and not putting the fan on in the room after each shower since I have no windows and that is why the paint is now streaking. All the other rooms look great and the other bathrooms have no problems that are rarely used. I do have the guest bathroom that I can take showers in for one week. I rarely use it since I like taking showers in my master bathroom with the glass doors than in a tub with a shower curtain. I only use that bathroom for guests or to wash my little doggies. I guess for one week, I can use the guest bathroom to shower in despite a little smell from my doggie's puppy pads in there. I guess I should feel blessed that my townhouse has 2 1/2 baths and has a lot of room. I just keep the puppy pads in there since in the winter time my spoiled little 5.8 lb Maltese, Sassy does not like to go outside. My other little doggies will go outside in my fenced in backyard on the stones but not the little Miss Princess Sassy who has always been like this knowing her cuteness will win out. I am just changing the color slightly since the BM Navajo White is only slightly less yellow than the Deep Cream and the Navajo White which I feel will go better with the bone colored Jacuzzi and the two bone colored sinks and the bone colored toilet, as well as the taupe tiles up the sides of the Jacuzzi and shower stall. The extra gray in the Navajo White surprisingly does not look gray to me in that room but warms the walls up and takes away the lemon cast that to me just did not look right against the taupe tiles. They are so similar in color and the formulas show it (Navajo White has 4 Less Units of Oxide Yellow and 4 more units of Gray and 1/2 extra unit of Orange than the deep cream color but otherwise they are so much alike in formula) but the room will then appear less lemon but still happy and bright and be semi-gloss like I wanted since I have no windows in it and I want to be able to clean it easily when I brush my teeth and get my walls dirty. I love my new pictures and my new olive towels and new olive rug and I feel they will go better with walls that do not have that lemon cast to them. I guess I should ask the paint store for a "liquid deglosser" and they will know what I mean? I can degloss part of the bathroom except for the tallest walls I will not be able to reach even with a tall ladder since I am not quite 5 feet. Maybe I can do what I can before painter arrives and he can do the rest. I think he is not that tall either (but much taller than me) but has tall ladders and long poles for his rollers. I had the painter tint the primer deep cream last time for the deep cream room and bone white tinted for the bone white room. I guess that was not really necessary since the colors are so light. The painter used the Deep Cream tinted primer for the Philadelphia Painted room telling me it was not worth going out to buy new primer. I wonder if this is why that room turned out more yellow than I had thought it would be.

Hi everyone, I was so excited when we decided to get pavers and now it has been a month and I have still not picked a color. I just want it to be done...and love it!! I also liked the white/tan/charcoal and found it to start to look pink to me after staring at it for a few days. I love the C/B/C when I see it in all your pictures but the sample I brought home seems to have alot of orange or rust in it? And the charcoal on my sample seems to look bluish at times. Did you find the same thing when you looked at yours at home. Got pool, I am curious do you love your pavers? Can anyone tell me where I can see a driveway or large area with the CBC? I live in Pasco county and would love to drive to take a look before I make my decision. Thanks! Battistafamily@aol.com

Is there something above that would tell me if it leans gray. You are correct. Chroma tells you how close to a neutral white, gray or black (the grayscale) a color is. It's called the whiteness, grayness or blackness characteristic of a color. MT's Chroma is 1.48 and Jute is 1.42. So Jute is just a snidge more grayed than MT. Or you could reverse it and say MT is just a snidge more colorful than Jute. Sometimes when people perceive a characteristic of grayness they'll call it a "gray undertone". When they perceive a characteristic of whiteness, they'll sometimes call it "chalky". Whiteness, grayness, blackness is not only technically correct, I think it's a lot more specific and simpler. As far as warm and cool, every color in context of its color system can be categorized as inherently warm or cool. In the example above, once you get to the 5Y mark in the yellow hue family, the colors start to shift to the cool side. Every color in a color system has a warm side and a cool side. With color temperature, odds are the inherent color temperature of a color will hold true. But context matters, the light matters. In situ with other contents of a room, a color that's warm in context of its color system could take on a cool role - or vice versa a color that's inherently cool could take on a warm role. Here's the Colorography for Manchester Tan. Puts the color in context of its hue family and illustrates chroma; maybe makes the whiteness, grayness, blackness scale I'm talking about easier to see/understand.