The only concern I would have with glass block windows would be minimum ventilation. MA Building Code does require that living spaces meet the 8% glass requirement but also that 4% of that area is able to be vented or operational. You did mention other windows in your post but without the dimensions of these windows I can't calculate the areas required but based on the room dimensions provided you would need approximately 26 s.f. of glass and 13 s.f. of that vented. If your heart is set on glass blocks Pittsburgh Corning does offer a glass block window with an operating vent in the middle but it looks a little clumsy. I would use regular Pella windows with the ScapeWel system. The ScapeWel is stepped with each step providing an area suitable for landscaping. They also offer clear covers. The ScapeWel would allow you to use all the same window manufacturer throughout the home giving you the same finished look on the inside whether you are upstairs or down in the basement. Good luck.... Cedarville Design Here is a link that might be useful: Bilco ScapeWel

Cluster flies deposit their eggs in the soil, use earthworms as a food source for the larva and emerge as adults in the fall, not mid-winter, so it's very unlikely this is what you have. Other fly species commonly deposit their eggs in animal corpses but can utilize just about any kind of decaying organic matter which serves as a food source for the larva when they emerge. Flies deposit eggs several times, not all at once, so you are probably dealing with multiple hatches. That's why they seem to disappear and then come back. Eventually they all will have emerged, lived out their short lifespans and died. What you don't want to happen is more eggs deposited in your house while they're alive.That's why identifying the species is important. So is eliminating any possible decaying organic matter, but if it's in an inaccessible place like a wall cavity it's nearly impossible.

I thank you for your comments - all good. Fred S. - thank you very much for your visual explanation of the types of basement - very helpful! chicagoans - your advice regarding lighting is great bpathome adn rrah - I will look at the craft room. Will probably make it the room on the right and re-work the layout on the left of the family area. no bunk area bry911 - appreciate your opinion. I will just have to find a way to make it more inviting. Nice challenge once we get to that point Elle - thanks for the idea and I will surely do that. We have a good amount of time until we tackle this project. Mark and Virgil - no worries. GreenDesigns and all others who remarked about the window egress and no outside door access - Greatly appreciate your insight and we shall consider ways to address before we start the build in 2018. ==================== What I appreciate about Houzz community is their willingness to assist others. Happy New Year!

If washing the roots, laying plant on some paper towels, newspaper or even cloth after will help to soak up extra moisture. Blasting them with a hose shouldn't be problem either, but swishing root ball in a dish of water is usually enough. Hydrophobic peat is difficult to get off the roots, since it dried up and hardened like a brick. It is better to use warm water in a dish, as it will re-hydrate peat faster. You'll probably loose some roots, but if plant is repotted into better conditions, it will grow many new roots, and most likely much more and stronger ones. Repotting is Spring is good idea, unless there is plants that are suffering in water-logged soil right now. Many ppl use clay-terracotta pots and swear they are best; I use mostly plastic and have np. As long as there is good drainage - drainage holes in pots and fast draining mix - plastic is ok. I have almost 200 succulents in plastic pots - some have been in same pots for few years. All tropical I have are in plastic too. And many perennials, overwintering outside, also in plastic pot. I am not sure if FG are attracted to peat - but they are certainly attracted to damp soils and also any mix with lots of organics in it. That is one of the reasons manure of any kind is not suitable for pots, especially indoors. It could work outdoors, as there are many beneficials to help, and usually better air circulation/wind. Hot, wet, humid, too much organic matter, standing water, poor air circulation = they are all contributors to what many pests like. Most could be eliminated and FG will go somewhere else :) ETA: adding to last paragraph: ...peat often stays wet for log time - and wet is attractive to FG...