I need a runner in my kitchen to protect wood floors? Any thoughts?
Wendy Halsey
5 years ago
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Wendy Halsey
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Protecting a wood floor in kitchen
Comments (10)After using the self-sticking felt pads for years, when we did our kitchen Reno I tried something different because I was tired of the felt pads always coming off. I bought a product from Amazon.ca called "chair socks). I'm not sure that Amazon.com actually carries them -- I don't think so). Mine are solid colour ( I got some black ones got my island stools, and brown ones for my dining chairs). I've had them since Christmas and so far they are great! You must follow their sizing instructions however, but that too is on the Amazon site. I'll try to attach a picture.The only complaint I have is they are expensive . . .but I like them enough that I think the investment is worth it. (My younger self, however, would probably have been too frugal to spend the money. they are about $15 CDN plus shipping for 8 socks (2 chairs)....See MoreNeed some thoughts/help with my kitchen
Comments (2)with a new backsplash and new uppers with glass doors you can really transform the space. I might leave the base cabinets with the current stain and get new white or light colored uppers-evaluate painting the wall cabinet boxes and source new doors with glass fronts. It can be a good kitchen for a two toned scheme. Have you thought about a backsplash?...looking at some tile might get you inspired about how to handle the cabinets as well....See MoreAny thoughts on my proposed changes to this Main/Upper floor plans?
Comments (20)Jon first thank you for realizing what I was saying was not to be snarky but to show you that some things can be different. From your comments, I feel you might be "settling". Yes some points are personal taste but most of it is not. 1) Front facing garage is the only option in this development due to the lot size/HOA restrictions and so most homes have the "garage heavy layout". I personally like that look as do many of the folks living there apparently. Most the houses in my neighborhood are on 5000-6000 square foot lots. Yes the garages are front facing but not the first thing you see because they are not allowed to have snout garages. Zoning says that a front facing garage must be set back a minimum of 15' from the absolute front of the house and must be set back 25' from the front of the lot. And believe it or not, some of these houses are over 3000 square feet. It takes someone with vision and skill to do something like that. Not just plopping a house on the property. How large is your lot? 2) Agree about the irregular shaped island and walls. I will be going with a different approach - rectangular islands as someone had previously suggested. All walls and the island should be straight and not angled. When I see angled walls, I figure the draftsman is untalented and couldn't figure out a better way to lay out the rooms, Also I figure they needed a way to "wow" the unsuspecting buyer. The problem is while it looks cool in 2D plans, it lives very awkwardly. 3) I'm using a smaller round table in that dinette area and it will fit just fine. The other is a formal dining area for when we have the friends over. Our island will probably have junk on it and so I guess no eating there ever :) Do you really need 3 eating areas? Wouldn't the island and one larger eating area work better than 2 small areas? How often will the dining room actually be used? If it will be used quite regularly then yes keep it, but if it's at most 1x a month, think how much that space is costing you. And even if you have a small table do you really want to squeeze into the space? And how small a round table? 4) About the pantry - funny enough when I wanted to move it away into another room a few folks recommended I keep it within the kitchen area. So I think this is personal choice. I agree counter space should be maximized though. You can have a pantry in a kitchen that works well with a well thought out kitchen design. This is not it. A pantry doesn't need to be in the corner. There are lots of other options. In fact corner pantries are about the least efficient. If you insist on keeping this plan, please send your kitchen to the kitchen forum to get a kitchen that will work well and be a pleasure to work in. 4) J & J bathrooms inherently require coordination between the occupants of the two rooms and so I think the current user will anyway have their door open, That said, I agree, move sinks into the bathroom and keep sink away from closets. Again if you design a house that works for you and your family you could create a bathroom that opens to the hallway that doesn't mean arguments when one or the other leaves a door locked in the middle of the night. 5) Bedside lights will easily solve that issue. How will bedside lights help when your partner needs to use the bathroom at 3AM? Are you saying they should turn on the bedside lights? 6) Is it a fire code violation to have dryers not in an external room? I've seen some designs where the laundry room was close to the master bedroom - even accessible from the master closet, so just curious. Code says you can't have a dryer hose longer than I believe it's 25' and that's for a straight run. You want one that can be periodically cleaned out. 7) Good point about not having two windows in the master bedroom. The windows in this design are pretty big - the link here shows some images and that is what is appears to be: Floor plan Wow even the photos make the house dark. Now imagine if they didn't use flood lights to show the house at its best? Big windows don't make a house brighter if there are only windows on some of the public rooms and only on one wall. Again: You really want every public room and every bedroom to ideally have windows on 2 walls. While you can maybe give up windows on a wall in a guest bedroom, I absolutely would never give up windows on at least two walls in the public rooms. That includes the kitchen, living room, and dining area. I would include the study in that too. The house above still have over 7' of wasted space in front of the stairway. Wouldn't you prefer not to have wasted space but instead have that space be useful? Why build and pay for useless space? I also repeat about the closet on an outside corner. Honestly, you can do so much better if you're willing to work with someone to create something that will truly work well for you and have a great layout....See MoreNeed advise for best hard wood floor finish for longevity/protection.
Comments (6)Sigh...it sounds like a low-end finish to begin with. A duration of 5 years is abysmal. Do you have photos? I prefer a HIGH END 2 part European finish. The toughest of the tough come with serious protection. The gold standard is Bona Traffic HD (the HD is SUPER important). It is easy to find (harder to finance...but you want tough/durable not cheap/useless). One that I worked with on CORK (yes... the softest most difficult hardwood to live with) is Loba 2K Supra AT (the AT is SERIOUSLY IMPORTANT). It is harder to find and even harder to finance but SOOOO worth it. It has a velvety silky feel to it, it is extremely tough and it has some of the best 'low slip' ratings in the industry. No matter which high-end 2 part European product you work with (should be $150 - $220/gallon...) you really want to work with 3 coats of FINISH. A sealant coat can be used...but the TOUGH stuff is the finish = the expensive part = 3 coats to get you a commercial grade finish....See MoreWendy Halsey
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