You can attack it from a couple of different angles... If the crown is all the same, then you can consider it all "room crown", and you can then paint it all creamy white. I have seen instances where the crown is all the same and the color simply transitions to blue at the soffit-to-cabinet crown miters. Your choice. I prefer to make the two crowns different though, making the cabinet crown smaller than the room crown. With the cabinet crown minor to the more major room crown, cope the cabinet crown to butt into the room crown. Paint the room crown white and the cabinet crown blue. Much depends on the size and styles of the crowns, etc, how they meet up, how they relate, etc. But it really boils down to your personal preference. The good news? It's only paint. Easy to change if you decide to change your mind.

Thank you all. I suggested to my wife to continue it on the beam but she voted against it. I shall simply butt it to the beam. While I have your attention, I have another room where part of the ceiling follows the roof contour, thus the ceiling slants down at this point to a bookshelf wall. I think it would look odd to bring the crown down to the bookshelf which is only ~5' high. Thus I want to end the crown at the ceiling point where the wall/ceiling line begins to descend. How to end at this point? I could put in a return or I could do a more complex cut so that crown met all three surfaces. Maybe I should repost this since the title is off focus now?

ffjunk, of course it's a personal choice, but thought I should add, we have a situation similar to yours, with a pass-through window between painted cabinets, as well as a pocket door between a cabinet and a cabinet pantry. Our cabinet crown molding, and our whole house crown molding are the same heights, but different cuts, so the choice was easier for us - keep the same crown molding throughout the kitchen, though it is open concept. We are using stop blocks at the pocket door crown as the pantry is a stained along with the crown molding above it, and the cabinet adjacent is painted, along with the crown above that. The trim around the door will be painted the same as the cabinet/cabinet crown molding. Our ceilings are 9'. We are also using a stop block where the whole house crown meets the kitchen cabinetry crown - it would be very difficult to both cope and scribe the crowns to match and we prefer the stop blocks. I don't have photos as we are still in the midst of remodeling and our cabinet maker has yet to bring and install the stop blocks.

Since you have crown identical to your existing, and the existing runs right into the adjacent wall, do a youtube search for "coping crown inside corners". Simplistically, you'll cut the crown at an inside 45 degree angle. Then use a coping saw to cut a slight back cut right right along the cut line made when you did the 45. The coped edge of the new crown will butt right into the profile of the existing crown as long as they have the same profile. If you're not familiar with the basics of cutting crown, do a search for "cutting crown upside down and backwards". You can miter the outside corners and miter or cope the inside corners. Coping inside corners works well if the inside corner angle is slightly off of a perfect 90 degrees. If your new crown has a different profile, you can scribe the end of the new crown to fit the profile of the existing crown. Enjoy!