Is this floor too busy? SPC Flooring
HU-245329674
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Homebody
5 years agoBarnes Custom Builders
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Pictures of SuperCore SPC Flooring?
Comments (96)I would like to get feedback on the Supercore Basics line. I am looking at Solitude for around 1,000 sf. I have an old wood subfloor that I am going to need to do a lot of leveling on. Where do you draw the line for telling someone that a 4.5mm floor is not for them? I know I only get a 12mil wear layer, but the fact that it is still Aluminum Oxide and has a stone composite core makes me feel it will be ok. Is there any difference in the locking system? The lock does not seem as hefty on the samples for the basics line. I get concerned that with an old pier and beam supported floor that has settled, even if I level the floor, will the less hardy locking system fail if I get slight movement with any further settling?...See MoreSPC Flooring - Clicking/Hollow
Comments (4)A well installed floating floor can and will feel 'solid'. Ahem...well installed. There are SOOOO many ways a floating floor can BECOME 'bouncy'...it is hard to determine with a single photo. Here are some of the links I have found for your flooring (you didn't say WHICH SPC so I'm including ALL links): https://www.republicfloor.com/copy-of-laminate-installation-instr https://www.republicfloor.com/copy-of-spc-installation-instruc Here are my thoughts with the quick description of your project (I used to sell floating cork flooring and it could have the same 'bounce' when the subfloor prep wasn't done). Carpet....sigh. Dearest carpet. How thee hidethe the worst of the worst. I'm not kidding. Carpets HIDE some of the WORST subfloors on the planet. That's why builders LOVE to use carpet. They hide every thing 'wrong' with a build. If this is over concrete, then carpet will hide dips, lumps, bumps, hollows, massive cracks, crumbling concrete, etc. If this is over 'wood joist' system then the carpet will hide height variations between underlayment sheets (yes...we've seen builders 'fudge' underlayment thickness because they ran out of one thickness so they throw down another and do a light sand on the edge to cover it up). Carpets hide slopes. They hide wavy subfloors (or subfloors that are too thin for the joist distance = warping of the subfloor). Carpets hide EVERYTHING. Once the carpets are gone, the CONTRACTOR must FIX everything. Must. Fix. Everything. All the humps, bumps, hollows, hieght variations, etc MUST be fixed before rigid floors are installed. For that reason, your contractor's QUOTE would have included subfloor prep. And it would look like a range of money: $1-$4/sf for subfloor preparation based on conditions found upon carpet removal. Please check your quote. If it ins't mentioned, it MAY NOT exist. If the subfloor prep was NOT done...then we have our FIRST suspect. Yep. First of MANY. Second thing that throws up red flags for me: the installation instructions do NOT mention "underpad" of any sort. That means it is NOT allowed. Please check to see if your installer used 'underpad' (like the stuff found underneath laminate flooring). An example of this is the 'laminate' floor installation instructions SPECIFICALLY MENTION the use of underpad...but the SPC/vinyl does NOT. Now we get onto the EXPANSION gap (the thing hidden behind the baseboards). It needs to be a minimum of 10mm thick (7/16" or so). It must be MORE if the long run is MORE than 20 ft. Now for the door areas. Do you have t-molding through EACH and EVERY DOOR? A photo will confirm that. And the MAXIMUM RUN (ie. down a hallway, into the living room, around a corner into the dining room and out the laundry room) is 40 ft. Do you have a maximum run that is MORE than 40ft? If you do, is there a t-molding SOMEWHERE in that run? If not, then the installation is wrong. The Uniclic system (the click edge system) is very good but it has limitations as to how much it can handle if the floor has long runs. The numbers I've shown above are NORMAL for Uniclic. Uniclic MUST HAVE t-moldings in doorways. The expansion gap MUST be observed. The 'flatness' rating of the floor MUST be observed (it cannot be wavy, lumpy or bumpy). If you have runs that are more than 40ft long, you must have 'in-field expansion gaps' inserted to REDUCE the length of a continuous run. These things can cause movement or bouncing of a floor. Which is why you need to have a look at the preparation (should have cost you $2-$4/sf depending on how BAD the subfloor was underneath the carpet). You then have to look whether or not an underpad was used under the floor. And then you have to look to see if the expansion gaps (at the walls) were maintained as well as t-moldings through doorways. My guess: the subfloor prep was skipped. But you still have to check all of the above. Because if things were missed, you have no warranty due to 'installer error'....See Morechoosing floors-knots verus grains-too busy/too plain? bevels vs none
Comments (47)Flooring was finished yesterday and baseboards go in tomorrow. What terrible luck. I don't think we've had one job go perfectly with any profession so far. We can feel a dip in front of fridge area, the most walked in area in the center of the house. I remembered that in my contract for it says "Concrete or any other approved substrate must be flat to within 3/16" in 10 linear feet to achieve best finished appearance of flooring." I measured and it's a 4/16" dip/valley. When I have my son step on it I can see the floor in that area go up and down. I really thought I hired a top notch company and they did a lot of work grinding and adding cement. The installer told me a story of having to go in and fix someone's floor that was professionally installed because slab wasn't level. I trusted them completely-I haven't learned yet. :( I mentioned it to the guy who's doing the job and there is a langauge barrier but he was saying the 3/16" rule was from the whole length of the 10' metal bar he's using and he immediatly said "where, I don't feel anything" and when I told him to get his bar he got it but looked at a different part of the kitchen. I asked him if it could void warranty and showed him my pic of the gap measuring 1`/4" and he said it's a floating floor and the 3/16 was across 10'. I posted here and got a couple responses that the click planks could break later and if not laid correctly I'm out of luck with the warranty co. They need to install baseboards tomorrow and I'm thinking of waiting until the end to tell the boss while I do more research here and call manufacturer to see what they say. Anyone ever have something like this come up? 1 click planks I'm not sure how they could fix this without tearing out the planks in the whole house which sounds like a nightmare, but having probs down the road and being on our own sounds worse. thx!...See Moreis this flooring too busy for an entire apartment?
Comments (8)You have in-floor heating which means you need a product that conducts the heat nicely. For me that means tile. Even a GREAT vinyl won't have the same conduction as tile. Korea is known for it's in-floor heating systems so tile is often used. I like the tile you have chosen. It is different from the run of the mill wood-look tiles (which are quite dated in N. America). It sounds like your household is pretty tough on floors which makes tile the best option. Go for tile. It suits the situation the best = tough and excellent heat conductor....See MorePatricia Colwell Consulting
5 years agoJAN MOYER
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHU-245329674
5 years agoTania Gonzaga
5 years agogroveraxle
5 years agoTania Gonzaga
5 years agoSammie J
5 years agoK Laurence
5 years agoHU-245329674
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agonuppal
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5 years ago
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