Thank you for all the responses, I feel so much better! I wasn't sure if the floor would end up looking too busy. Our vanity will be stained a medium brown, so perhaps it makes it a unique focal point and therefore the marble on the counter is okay if it's softer than the tile on the floors. The people we bought the tiles from actually sorted our floor tiles from the lot, to keep them as consistent to each other as possible. They had shown me other lots of Calacatta and they varied just as Bill and others had described. They had one lot with the softer veining, but unfortunately didn't have enough for our master bathroom. Marlene - I love your bathroom and you have a beautiful, peaceful marble on your counter, so I'm happy to know that you also like the busier veining on some of your tiles. Zeebee - please post pics when you get your samples. I'd love to see them!! I'm so happy that we've been able to incorporate Calacatta in our home as I've loved seeing it in others' kitchens. I'm super happy with our Bianco Antico kitchen counters, but Calacatta had an allure that I just could not ignore. Here is the layout of our master bath. The 18x18 Calacatta floor tiles will be on the floor, while the 5/8x5/8 mosaics will border an area on the floor, and go on the shower floor. The bathroom walls will have a half wall of subway tile, and the subway tiles are carried over into the shower walls and ceiling. The slab of course, will go on the vanity counter, as well as the marble jambs and thresholds.

I'm glad to see this post because I've been agonizing over our granite selection for weeks. We will have cherry cabinets quite similar to jillsee's and natural red oak flooring. As attested to by all of the sample photos and responses from others who've done that, the combination can work. We've looked at countless granite slabs at many of the local vendors. Although my original inclination was to go with something like Typhoon Bordeaux or the sample that jillsee posted, I think we've decided that we prefer something that includes more black for contrast. We found some great titanium granite slabs. They are mostly shades of black, white, and gray, but contain speckles/splotches of a rust/chestnut color that match the cabinets. It has a lot of movement, but we really like the pattern of the movement. We're almost ready to make our final decision. We've also seen Magma and Magma Gold, which also have a lot of movement and similar colors, but include more of the rust/chestnut color. Good luck, jillsee. I'm interested to hear what you select.

ML, we are looking at Angle World/ Durato's V-Evo in the color called Bean Town. It is 12 mils. It's between that and Flooret's "base" in the color called Kingswood. Both are 12 mils. I have read in many reviews that anything more is overkill. I'm happy to see you have Angle World/Durato and you like it. Please let me know if it's the V-Evo or something different. (It's all very confusing with these names and sub-names and product lines being ever so different within the manufacturer. The more we look, the more confused we become.) Thank you!

A well installed floating floor can and will feel 'solid'. Ahem...well installed. There are SOOOO many ways a floating floor can BECOME 'bouncy'...it is hard to determine with a single photo. Here are some of the links I have found for your flooring (you didn't say WHICH SPC so I'm including ALL links): https://www.republicfloor.com/copy-of-laminate-installation-instr https://www.republicfloor.com/copy-of-spc-installation-instruc Here are my thoughts with the quick description of your project (I used to sell floating cork flooring and it could have the same 'bounce' when the subfloor prep wasn't done). Carpet....sigh. Dearest carpet. How thee hidethe the worst of the worst. I'm not kidding. Carpets HIDE some of the WORST subfloors on the planet. That's why builders LOVE to use carpet. They hide every thing 'wrong' with a build. If this is over concrete, then carpet will hide dips, lumps, bumps, hollows, massive cracks, crumbling concrete, etc. If this is over 'wood joist' system then the carpet will hide height variations between underlayment sheets (yes...we've seen builders 'fudge' underlayment thickness because they ran out of one thickness so they throw down another and do a light sand on the edge to cover it up). Carpets hide slopes. They hide wavy subfloors (or subfloors that are too thin for the joist distance = warping of the subfloor). Carpets hide EVERYTHING. Once the carpets are gone, the CONTRACTOR must FIX everything. Must. Fix. Everything. All the humps, bumps, hollows, hieght variations, etc MUST be fixed before rigid floors are installed. For that reason, your contractor's QUOTE would have included subfloor prep. And it would look like a range of money: $1-$4/sf for subfloor preparation based on conditions found upon carpet removal. Please check your quote. If it ins't mentioned, it MAY NOT exist. If the subfloor prep was NOT done...then we have our FIRST suspect. Yep. First of MANY. Second thing that throws up red flags for me: the installation instructions do NOT mention "underpad" of any sort. That means it is NOT allowed. Please check to see if your installer used 'underpad' (like the stuff found underneath laminate flooring). An example of this is the 'laminate' floor installation instructions SPECIFICALLY MENTION the use of underpad...but the SPC/vinyl does NOT. Now we get onto the EXPANSION gap (the thing hidden behind the baseboards). It needs to be a minimum of 10mm thick (7/16" or so). It must be MORE if the long run is MORE than 20 ft. Now for the door areas. Do you have t-molding through EACH and EVERY DOOR? A photo will confirm that. And the MAXIMUM RUN (ie. down a hallway, into the living room, around a corner into the dining room and out the laundry room) is 40 ft. Do you have a maximum run that is MORE than 40ft? If you do, is there a t-molding SOMEWHERE in that run? If not, then the installation is wrong. The Uniclic system (the click edge system) is very good but it has limitations as to how much it can handle if the floor has long runs. The numbers I've shown above are NORMAL for Uniclic. Uniclic MUST HAVE t-moldings in doorways. The expansion gap MUST be observed. The 'flatness' rating of the floor MUST be observed (it cannot be wavy, lumpy or bumpy). If you have runs that are more than 40ft long, you must have 'in-field expansion gaps' inserted to REDUCE the length of a continuous run. These things can cause movement or bouncing of a floor. Which is why you need to have a look at the preparation (should have cost you $2-$4/sf depending on how BAD the subfloor was underneath the carpet). You then have to look whether or not an underpad was used under the floor. And then you have to look to see if the expansion gaps (at the walls) were maintained as well as t-moldings through doorways. My guess: the subfloor prep was skipped. But you still have to check all of the above. Because if things were missed, you have no warranty due to 'installer error'.