Solutions for 1960's designed sunken living room plus railing options
jkoehler77
5 years ago
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midcentury modern flooring options - I need help!
Comments (20)awm, thank you! Our house isn't Architectually Important or anything, but I really love it. And I totally agree about split-levels. They get a bad rap, but when they're done right, they're very interesting. I'm so thankful that the previous owners did such a nice job on the addition - it really works with the flow of the house in a very seamless way. Although the cosmetic details aren't my thing, the overall flow really enhances the house. So it sounds like the consensus is to not do flagstone in the breakfast room, and to use the same flooring in the LR/DR, kitchen, entry and breakfast room - perhaps with the exception of a stone area in the entry. Any votes for trying to recreate the original flooring in the kitchen and entry - a mosaic tile? These are the original tiles that I've dug out from under the edges of the existing flooring. (yes, I go on "fact-finding" missions in my own house. I think of it as domestic archaeology!): To be clear - I wouldn't do the same colors - I'd use a mosaic tile but in a different colorway. I'm pretty sure I don't want to do this, but the purist in me thinks it could be interesting. Thoughts? Too weird? Too impractical?...See MoreSunken room with baseboard heating is cold
Comments (5)Wow, 4-8 degrees is a lot and way too much. Was the sunken room added later? This room has three exterior walls, I bet. Zoning can work, but running a single room, completely separate small zone with a big boiler can lead to awful short cycling. If an efficient boiler is going to be installed eventually, a low mass model, it won't work well at all. What kind of fuel is used for the boiler? Natural gas, I hope. The best approach might be to improve the insulation and air sealing in the room. If that is not enough, adding more emitter need not be very expensive. In 1961, most probably Al fin-tube convector was probably used. You can add length by lining more wall with added convectors. You can put in higher capacity emitter of the same length. It will cost more, but you can add panel radiators or take out the baseboard and install all panel radiators. It is a sunken room so maybe you bring the floor level up a little and put in radiant floor heat, but this will be the most costly. It will, however, be the most comfortable heat you ever had if done right. If you add radiators and keep the existing zones, thermostatic radiator valves (TRV) can add some control for the temp in the individual room -- not too costly probably. No matter what you do to add hydronic heat to this room, you should hire someone that is knowledgable. It might be simple, but if not and it is goofed up, you might cause other problems and be worse off. A good hydronic installer might come in and quickly determine that your system is designed with a very large heat drop from boiler outlet to boiler inlet on the other end of the loop. If the bedroom in question is the last room in the zone, the simple solution might be to move that room to the boiler end of the loop meaning that it gets hotter water (maybe 20 degrees hotter) and more heat. Calculations will immediately show if that will work or it won't. Back to the beginning, insulate and improve air sealing first for the biggest bang for the buck, especially if you have fuel oil or propane heat. Here is an article that I just ran across. It is more about other issues than adding heat to a single room, but there is a section about added emitters including several approaches illustrating the questions involved. It might help you and others. don't get too bogged down in the calculation detail if you don't want. The diagrams and descriptive prose are pretty easily grasped. http://spacepak.com/modules/news/upload/%7B7C28944F-EA07-4E17-B21B-79B37040FA07%7D_water_works.pdf If that link does not work, search "Authored by John Siegenthaler Lowering Water Temperature in Hydronic Heating Systems" Sieganthaler has written many good articles about hydronic heat systems that are pretty easily grasped by people that are not engineers....See MoreSectional Mistake / Designing an Old Farmhouse Living Room
Comments (9)Scary with no banister on your stairs. I see a hand rail. Is that sufficient? IMO the ladder should be on the wall with the art work on it (beside the dining room) Put the TV to the left...more in the middle of the wall. Take away the end table beside it...Add a floor lamp in the corner behind your sectional and a lamp on the end table. Sheer curtains will soften your room. Is one of the end tables .. the one by the TV....low enough to be used for a coffee table? If too high, maybe look for a small ottoman or small table or stool to use, if you think you have room for it....See MoreKitchen/Living Space Layout dilemma!
Comments (2)Really either layout would work, they are basically mirrored images. But I guess I would reframe it this way... The kid/office drop area, I wouldn't do a built-in and I wouldn't want it near the dining table. It will get cluttered, and at some point the kids will outgrow the space and go to their rooms. Will it really be used for a home office space? Or just a catch all? Would rather it be in an area that could be reconfigured over time and taken over like in the seating area. Love the idea of doors to the outside, will you have a patio/ deck area? If not, please add.:-) If yes, the idea of the doors would be great to do one long deck along the run of the kitchen. Not sure what your outside landscaping is, but a grill area with seating is perfect off a kitchen. It would be a good time to think about the outside at the same time laying out the inside. Good luck!...See Morejkoehler77
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