I'm sorry I was slow to respond, but it looks like Tonytran had the same experience I did and my figs look just about exactly the same size as his (both the plant and the fruit). As for whether they will ripen or not, I just don't know. I have had 3-4 ripen already, but they seem to be odd-balls since the vast majority of my fruits are still a little larger than marbles. My season, by the way, is about 6 months or so....the last frost is usually in mid April and the first frost usually in mid-October. I am in middle Tennessee, btw. I uncovered my Chicago hardy figs in mid April and they appeared completely dead. I cut the dead wood back to about 8 inches up from the ground, at which point I saw a little green so I stopped. Nothing happened for like a month or so (which makes their eventual growth and fruit more amazing) but then it slowly started to grow back. It grew slowly until around July, then took off and put out fruits as it grew. Its now about 4 foot tall and has lots of small green fruit. Again, my situation sounds and looks very much like Tonytrans, so I guess it isn't THAT unusual after all. BTW....the 10 new figs I planted THIS YEAR are about 3 feet tall and also have a good deal of fruit. They aren't nearly as thick in fruit or brush as the ones that are 3 year old re-starts after winter kill. If you have other questions let me know.

Hi, lovetogarden: If you plant a fig tree in the ground, be prepared to winterize it during the winter months every year! My zone is 5 or 6? I have 1 in-ground fig tree (maybe a Kadota), it was indoored for several years previously. It was moved to the ground last summer. The roots were getting too heavy for me to move the pot in and out of the house. As I had no prior experience of winterization, last year was a first try of that. I DO NOT have the strength and no one to help me to bury my 3 and a half feet tall fig tree, so: By myself, I put a lot of dried leaves, a wire cage, old carpet and 1 large cardboard box for the tree. I am sure that I gave my fig tree enough insulation, but the top branches of the tree died of mold. I assume this is due to I did not keep the tree dry (not covering the whole thing with a plastic cover, melted snow went into the tree). Well, at least it is NOT DEAD and growing well again! Now my tree is about 1 foot high with lots of new growth at the base of the tree. What I`ve learned it is tricky to winterize the fig tree when the weather is not stable-1 day cold, then the next day is hot! Moisture builds up in the tree when it is insulated that can cause mold. This coming winter I will do the winterization in several steps. To put the insulation up, I will do it in 2 steps: In November, I will put the initial insulation. I will put in leaves but not too much. Then around December 21 when the temperature drops significantly, I will put more insulation for the tree and this time I will make sure I put a plastic sheet to cover the whole thing. To remove the insulation when Spring is coming, I will do this in a 2 steps also. Because April is still not warm enough to uncover the fig tree, I would not want to remove the insulation and then have an early frost kill my fragile, beloved fig tree! It is much safer to remove the insulation in the beginning of May! Maybe after reading my post will convince you enough to put your fig tree(s) into a pot and do the shuffle for the winter months!

I'm trying to build my soil and I have read stories where even the hardest clay changes simply with top dressing every year. It takes much longer this way (years), but the stories have been convincing. I'm leaving the autumn leaves in my garden and I take bags of leaves from my lawn and keep them rather than giving to the county. I try to shred the leaves but we find the process messy and unpleasant (loud shredder) but I usually get a bag or two done which worth about 5 bags unshredded. I use the shredded leaves as a bottom layer of mulch for my vegetable garden and any leftovers for my ornamental garden. The whole leaves are used for the ornamental gardens and back "wild" garden. On top of the leaves, I put shredded hard wood mulch for the ornamental garden and natural bark mulch for the vegetable garden. I use much less than if I only used mulch as I have the (completely free) layer of leaves underneath. My vegetable garden gets turned a bit every year as I plant new, so I have seen the best change in my soil as the broken down mulch from the previous year is incorporated into the top few inches as I break up the soil and create a smooth planting base in the Spring. I'm starting to compost again and hope to have my own compost to use as another layer. My county doesn't do this, but others nearby will deliver for free to residents truck loads of compost (I'm so jealous). You might want to look into your local services to see if they either deliver or allow pickup of mulch or compost for residents. I'm really excited for you and your project! I think you will have an amazing woodland garden!

Anna, What I have read is that Italian Honey Fig is another name for White Marseilles. However, I believe there are a number of different light colored figs that have a honey like sweetness, that go by the name Italian Honey Fig. I suspect there are many different light colored fig varieties from Italy (It's a big country of avid gardeners!), that go by the generic name Italian Honey Fig. ALso, since White Marseilles is supposed to be a French fig, yet is also called Italian Honey Fig, figs that produce light colored, honey sweet fruit no matter where in the world they come from, are probably automatically called Italian Honey Figs by some people. Confusing, isn't it? Moses