1) There are a couple of reasons I don't like to have nutrients delivered via CRFs during the winter. Even though delivery is closely tied to temperature, there is still some release with temperature change. Since you water4 very little in a cold storage situation, fertilizer can accumulate in soils. If you over-winter indoors, the plants probably don't (or let's say might not) need as much as is being released, so the unneeded fertilizer just adds to the level of TDS (total dissolved solids) and EC (electrical conductivity) in the soil, making it more difficult for the plant to absorb water under what is usually low humidity conditions. This can easily cause leaf tip/marginal necrosis. 2) No changes in fertilizer/or the gypsum additive when using cherrystone vs, granite. 3) That would be the general procedure. There are other strategies you could implement by pruning at other times, but what you mentioned would be most widely favored. 4) Pruning hard CAN include a chop, but it doesn't have to. Pruning hard varies by species & usually (but not always) is closely tied to the genetic vigor of the plant AND its vitality. IOW, you don't whack a slow growing pine to the ground & expect it to back-bud, but you CAN do it to a maple or a Pyracantha, quince, Cotoneaster ...... you get the idea. Often, it includes removing lots of branches & pruning all secondary branches back to 1-2 buds, but again - it varies. My usual strategy is: Tropicals: Root prune in the month before their most robust growth & leave canopy intact. Prune canopy after the tree has reestablished & is putting out lots of new growth (2-3 weeks later) Deciduous: Root prune AND prune canopy at the same time in spring, just before buds move. Evergreens: Root prune later than deciduous, as the trees in the landscape are leafing out, but leave canopy intact. Prune canopy after tree has reestablished & is pushing new growth. 5) If the fir bark is 1/8-1/4", it's just perfect for the gritty mix. I paid $17 for 3 cu ft bags this weekend. I'll let you decide what's appropriate for your situation. 4 II) ;o) I grow some terrestrial orchids in the gritty mix & they love it - multiplying nicely. For some others, it may be too water retentive, but I'm not an orchid grower. I'm sure some variation of it could find favor with many if they tried it, though. A friend of mine, also a bonsai practitioner, (and I'm only telling you what HE said) once spouted loudly that, "Orchids are but baubles and beads in the horticultural world when compared with the beauty of bonsai." I don't know if I buy the whole parcel or not, but it was very clever & made me laugh at the time. The lady orchid grower he was teasing at the time couldn't quite hide that she was at least mildly offended .... in spite of the fact it was probably only offered for the laugh. Maybe not though, knowing him. ;o) Thank you for the kind words sir/mam. I'm very glad you find help in my offerings. That knowledge is what keeps me coming back. ;o) Al

overproduction is called a mast year : https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffcm&q=mast+year&ia=web it can be.. but not always... is the year AFTER some weather event... very cold winter... drought.. etc .. as the flowers bloom before the drought .... it wouldnt be adverse to the nut production the year of teh drought .. inartful english there.. hope you can figure what i mean ... https://duckduckgo.com/?q=oak+flowers&t=ffcm&iax=images&ia=images perhaps mary is not mowing her grass often enough ... perhaps dont wait until the grass is tall enough.. and just keep mowing the trees .. if you keep cutting off the leaves.. soon or later.. the tree will use up stored energy..and die ... ken

I bought a small (6 leaves or so but most likely a cutting propagation) stephanotis exactly one year back. It was indoors for the winter in a sunny SE window, had a cool unheated month in january, grew some last fall winter, a lot more in spring outdoors in partial western sun but no buds till I spied tiny buds yesterday. I am not sure what triggered the blooms, the ironite I fed a couple of times, some epsom salt a month back or so, the watering getting neglected to the extent that leaves become soft, droopy, wilty, the dry cold windy weather off late. Anyhow, I am thrilled. I will update how this turns out.

Well my opinion , is thus first to those who suggest cutting down the oak .They might check their local ordinances,you must acquire a permit before ever even thinking of harming these majestic trees. If you do and are caught by code enforcement it could cost you in hefty fines and having to plant many oaks for the one you destroyed all based on the girth of the trunk. Now to the planting of Bromeliads if you spend no time at all outside these plants are great as mosquito breeding grounds as they hold water in their throat and mosquitos will lay their eggs there ensuring blood sucking varmints galore. Some people have already made some great suggestions . My favorites are as follows Azaleas ( there are a lot of choices in flower colors and sizes. Azaleas are shallow rooter. So buying smaller one gallons can assure better results. Amending the soil by using Miracle grow potting soil will give you a great start. Remember if you want showy flowers in Feruary and March prune after flowering stops and never ever prune after 4 th of July . Otherwise you will cut off the buds. So cut only rooster tails ( tall scraggly unruly branches that grow twice as tall as the rest of the plant. Ferns are great and thrive under oaks and are fairly maintenance free. ,they also spread filling areas with little output of money. My favorites are Holly Ferns, Foxtail ferns and the old standard Boston ferns. A little fish emulsion amended into the soil prior to planting can garner good results. Camelias, Hydrangeas, are awesome as they live all year round . annuals can sometimes give you many months and even years of pleasure ( as they can reseed themselves) caladiums ( which are bulbs ) in a grouping surrounded by impatiens are wonderous way to get color in the shade of an Oak . Remember watering during hot months and a little osmocote mixed into the potting mix and sprinkled around each flower can give give your flowers months of food thanks to its time release formula. Philodendrons of all sorts are also a good choice. Mondo grass, liriope ( big blue or Aztec ( variegated) Asiatic jasmine is somewhat minimal maintenance and there are new varieties out, that have bright pink foliage mixed in and these newbies just love the shade. Oak leaves make a great natural mulch ( as when the leaves break down the turn the soil slightly acid P.H. And this is ideal for all the plants I have mentioned above. Also consider large boulders water features like a small water fall .running water splashes onto plants and the sound of water has a calming and cooling on humans when it is hot . Last the shade from large trees especially oaks can drop temperature by a few degrees . Couple that with a slight breeze and you will appreciate the shade of an oak especially on a hot day. Try to buy oaks from a reputable nursery. Live is the majestic tree that outlives most humans two three fold or more. Laura oaks are fast growing a six foot tree at planting with loving maintenance can see growth of twice to three times its height and width in 3 to 5 short years. Look around your neighborhood or surrounding coomunity if you spot an oak take note as to what plants are growing under oaks with your own similar exposure. To the person that stated sandy soil is just around your tree. Florida soil is primarily sandy . Last consult your local nurseryman,He will be the best investment . Rob