At least they didn't use straw flowers
Rob Blomquist
5 years ago
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Rob Blomquist
5 years agoSoCal Stewart (San Diego, Ca Zone 10A/10B)
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Didn't know I was landscaping-handicapped until the DW told me so
Comments (19)In your picture, you have an area in the lower left that's open. If that's not your property, you need no stepping stones, and just connect that across with a curved be. If it is, then connect it but put in steps for access. Juniper and arbs won't do in shade at all. Even in part shade, they're ratty. Again, for full, deep shade, there are also yews, boxwood, and some azaelas/rhodos for the deepest shade and there are tons more options for lighter full shade. Clethra anifolia is one of my faves that grows where you are. I have holly growing in deep shade, but you have to accept that it'll have a looser habit. Kalmia latifolia and some camellias work, too. This site is pretty decent, though you'll have to filter the results by zone and whether they are deciduous: http://navigator.gardenpilot.com/ShrubsFullShade.html For sunnier areas, there's nothing in the world wrong with arbs. They have a great shape and habit, and make a lovely backdrop to a busy perennial bed. There are other options for a small space, though. Picea pungens 'Iseli Fastigiate', Cham. pisifera ("Golden Mops" and others), Cham. obtusa Hinoki, (these three are okay for part shade--most conifers are NOT) Bird's nest spruce, dwarf Alberta spruce, and hundreds of other dwarf conifers are great options. There are also non-conifer options like Sky Pencil holly and other Ilex crenata cultivars, many other hollies, and hordes of others. Some of the new camellia hybrids are safe, especially against a building, and a fer pyracantha, too. All these broadleaved evergreens are suited to part shade, too. (In fact, in warmer areas, camellias prefer shade.) Ornamental small trees have their place, too, like the hardiest of the Japanese magnolias, dogwood, and redbud....See Morecompost in tumbler didn't get hot
Comments (4)It doesn't need to get hot to make compost, and the volume of a tumbler is probably too small to retain much heat anyway. The rule of thumb is at least a cubic yard for a hot pile, and that's with the bottom insulated by the ground. If your batch is deficient in N though, it will take a long time to get compost. If it seems like the straw is not breaking down, you can add more greens. Are you putting your kitchen scraps in every couple of days? One problem with a tumbler is that compost takes awhile to 'finish', i.e. the long cool curing stage after initial breakdown. Where do you put new stuff in the meantime? As soon as you have one pile (or tumbler) you need a second one. A cheaper option is to empty it into a wire cage or bin and let it cure awhile while you start a new batch....See MoreOK, Seeing is Believing, I didn't WS this, plant it, BUT !!!!!!!
Comments (3)Made me laugh when I recognized it immediately. LOL...after the first year of doing this for all the kids in the family for Easter I made sure to keep a list of where all the plastic eggs were. My brothers-in-law and I were all wandering around like idiots trying to find the last eggs since I always had one of each color for all the kids. Of course, the criers were the ones who were missing an egg or two. I thought it was one you'd hidden in some year past and just uncovered it in your garden....See More'fairy castle cactus with pink straw flowers' care?
Comments (42)I tend to disagree with some of the advice in that link: sand for play boxes is usually too fine, it is specifically good packing sand to make sand castles and sand cookies and similar...if it was coarse, it would not stick together. So that info is, IMO, incorrect. You need to find what is referred to as Horticultural sand - much grittier, with bigger particles. Most of us do not use sand at all (very few ppl do, and they have lots of knowledge and experience with growing succulents). You would be much better off reading info on this forum: ppl giving advice grow (and many, like Jeff above), have been growing succulents for years. Our goal is to keep plants healthy, and #1 is usually drainage problem: mix needs to drain fast/well, and soil with fine sand will not provide drainage. Perlite is available to most. It is good idea to sift or rinse it, to get rid of dust. Pumice is anorher excellent substrate, not always readily available. Chicken grit/small granite gravel, is another ingredient excellent to use. There are many more inorganc ingredients that could be used. MG bagged potting soil is considered not good enough and many will not use it (including me). You could make much better draining mix by using just sifted perlite and Cactus&Succulent soil in 1:1 ratio. If you already have MG soil and want to use it, I would suggest to add even more perlite (60-80%). If you have pumice, use it instead of perlite. Or mix it with perlite, and use much less soil. Adding grit helps a lot. Grains of different ingredients should be approx. of same size: 4-6mm is good. It could be tad smaller, but, IMO, 2mm or less is too fine. Over 6mm gets to be too large. Many succulets do not need very large pots. Try to find out where some grow naturally: most in very 'rocky' areas, with literally no soil (or very little), and many on and in-between the rocks: tight spaces. So size of the pot is not always a problem. Bigger is not neccessarily better :) Repoting is usually not needed every year, and if repotting, it is better to go up just a bit - if plant needs it. Succulents could be grown in large pots - but drainage is even more important. Lots of water retaining soil that will fill up large pot will take very long time to dry up and cause lots of damage. If you provide good drainage (and have space for it), you can grow tiny plant in a wine barrel.... There is ton of info here, from good and experienced growers. Not like on some blogs, that offer incorrect info (at least partially) - often not based on experience, but incorrect info passed down. ETA: I just re-read blog you posted link to: here is contradicting info offered within 2 or 3 paragraphs: ..."The type of sand I buy is just the stuff they sell for use in a sandbox (I buy it at either Home Depot or Lowes)"... ..."Just don’t use sand from the garden, the beach, or a sandbox (you never know what nasties will be in that sand)"... Do not use play sand - either from the bag or a sandbox... Anything will work for short period of time. But if you want to grow succulents for a long time, keep them healthy - try to provide good drainage and good light....See MoreRob Blomquist
5 years agoSoCal Stewart (San Diego, Ca Zone 10A/10B)
5 years agoKara 9b SF Bay Area CA
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoasclepiad_fan
5 years agokingd Z6A michigan
5 years agoasclepiad_fan
5 years agoLiz (Virginia z6b)
5 years agoRob Blomquist
5 years agoCasualSweater
5 years agoPaul MI
5 years agoKara 9b SF Bay Area CA
5 years agoRob Blomquist
5 years agoCasualSweater
5 years agobragu_DSM 5
5 years agotsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
5 years agoRob Blomquist
5 years agoewwmayo
5 years agoKara 9b SF Bay Area CA
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoCrenda 10A SW FL
5 years agoRob Blomquist
5 years agoCrenda 10A SW FL
5 years agoasclepiad_fan
5 years agoewwmayo
5 years ago
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