tree covered yard - advice for mediocre lawn
Platypus
5 years ago
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Yardvaark
5 years agoemmarene9
5 years agoRelated Discussions
advice on first steps to trying to fix front yard lawn
Comments (4)" That leaves fescue and your only grass possibility unless you want to take down the trees." that sounds simple. ill look into getting fescue seed. "Now is a bad time to plant new grass but a lot of people do it. Those are the people who complain in July that they have a full crabgrass lawn. That's what happens if you seed new grass in the spring. You get all the summer weeds. If you want to nurse this lawn through the summer, then late August is the best time to seed the fescue." okay. ill nurse this lawn through the summer and seed fescue in august. so nursing means trying to keep on top of the weeds (really, the lawn isnt that large, so i think this is doable) and watering whatever i have that is green deeply and infrequently. correct? ill plan on that. ill pull out those weeds in the strip as well and try to keep it bare over the summer till august. im not in any rush. i just want to do my best to try to have the yard looking better than what it looks like now....See MoreLawn issues (tree roots drying out lawn, uneven ground, grading e
Comments (1)Can you post a couple pictures? The best time to photograph a lawn is when a cloud goes overhead. It would be good to see from far enough away to see the trees and then a close up of the dry spot in the middle. Did you have Marathon in Calabasas before? If not where? And what was your watering regimen (how often and for how long)? Can we assume you are watering this lawn the same way? When were the last two times you fertilized, or have you fertilized yet? Hopefully your close up picture will help someone here to identify your current grass type. Different grasses can be eradicated by different means. Sometimes it's as simple as stopping watering. I'm not sure you will ever be able to apply enough water for those trees. That is a lot of timber to keep moist. The tool which professional landscapers use to prep a garden is a box blade pulled behind a tractor. This is what it looks like in action. The ripper bars you see on the box blade (like a rake sitting above the soil in the blade) can be used to remove most small roots, but there is a limit. When you get ready to get rid of the trees, you might want to consider major stump removal, not grinding, and root removal throughout the rest of the yard. For those two jobs they might bring in a small bulldozer or other heavy equipment....See MoreRenovating lawn in dog's fenced yard
Comments (3)Thank you for the pictures. You can't imagine how much better that is than our collective imaginations. You are not overthinking this. You are thinking it through properly. It's just a lot to put down all at once, but I thank you for going to the trouble and not scattering it all over the place. Your soil is poor and thin not because of anything that has been done to it, but because you have not been using organic fertilizer at least once a year. There is a FAQ on organic lawn care in the GW Organic Gardening Forum. Check that out for a basic primer on the new approach to inexpensive organic lawn care. If you want to improve your soil very quickly, go straight organic and go often. This year rather than using corn (too expensive) I have been using alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). When I wrote the Organic Lawn Care FAQ, corn was selling for $3 per bag. This year is was $15-20 per bag while alfalfa was "only" $12 per bag. Alfalfa is a better fertilizer than corn anyway, so it's a much better deal. I've been on these forums for 10 years. There are two approaches to getting rid of creeping charlie that work. One is to dig up the top six inches of every square inch of the yard and pull out all the roots. Start in one corner and go as far as you can. When you come back, start AGAIN in the SAME CORNER and repeat because you will have missed some. At least the second time it goes much faster. Continue doing and redoing the area until you have nothing but soil. Or the other approach that works is to use non-organic chemicals. I will not address that approach in this forum because this is an organic forum and because the people here are not well versed in the use of the chemicals. If you decide to use something like RoundUp, check into a lawn forum where the members know how to use it. The same goes for bermuda. You can get rid of them, though. Sand is not a problem in the soil. In fact I prefer sand to anything else when I'm leveling or filling in low areas. If that was your jar test I just commented on, you have mostly sand anyway. Good news there is that sand does not compact like other soils do. Bad news is that sand does not develop a structure like other soils do. Tree work will not involve equipment. You will get a crew of men who climb trees like monkeys and drag stuff to the front where the equipment is. Drainage needs to be addressed. You'll need an on site landscaper to fix that for you. For your small lot he might use a tractor with a tool called a box blade or he might just use a group of labor guys. The tractor would be done in 10 minutes. Dog urine is only a problem when the basic soil is not fertilized. If you had adequate fertilizer down, dog urine becomes instant fertilizer. When you don't have the biology right, then that instant fertilizer burns the roots. If you are interested in an alternative turf grass, look into the wheatgrasses that might do well in your area. They are normally considered a prairie grass, but when you sow the seed like a lawn and mow it a few times, it looks like one of the best lawns you'll find. Here is a picture of a wheatgrass lawn in Utah. He's in a high desert area and waters his lawn beginning in late May or June. Mowing is monthly. His is a mix of wheatgrasses, blue grama, and strawberry clover. When seeding you might try doing half the yard at a time. At the bottom of your steps you need a landing. It can be a easy as several inches of shredded tree mulch or it could be more formal like a wooden landing or even stone....See MoreNeed advice on lawn/shade trees for new build
Comments (2)St. Augustine is a warm-season grass that goes dormant (brown) in winter, so best to wait until spring to plant for zone 8....See MoreRevolutionary Gardens
5 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
5 years agoPlatypus
5 years agoPlatypus
5 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agoYardvaark
5 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
5 years agoPlatypus
5 years agoChanabelle
5 years agoemmarene9
5 years agoEmbothrium
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSkip1909
5 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agotdemonti
5 years agoPlatypus
5 years agoYardvaark
5 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
5 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
5 years agoYardvaark
5 years ago
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