https://www.unitedtile.com/products/HOME/PRODUCTS/PROUCTS-PLANK.aspx

The easiest is to get unfinished hardwood for the new and have the old refinished to match in your case you might even get lucky and fid some matching. Probably now is a bit awkward with some closures but I would see what samples you can find. It mentions the floor is new so a better chance of matvching. That kitchen is quite an issue I think I would deal with that first before doing the floors since they can come later after you have decided exactly what you are doing.

The Loba 2K Supra AT + UVProtect (be careful, Loba UV is their UV CURED polyurethane...not the same! Not the same!) is super easy to work with and the colour change over time is MINIMAL. Bona Traffic HD + NordicSeal = will NOT block the STRONG YELLOW from popping back up. Will NOT stop it. Imagine getting a beautiful pale (almost white) looking floor and then 1 year later (ahem...one year = 12 months = not very long) you get a HEAVY yellow tinge to your flooring....ohhhhh dear...! The COST is the cost. Bona HD and Loba AT (the top line of the top lines) = most expensive finishes on the market. They are also the MOST STUNNING on the market and they are also the TOUGHEST on the market. You get what you pay for. Remember: your floor is THE MOST ABUSED 'decor' item in your home. It gets almost the same amount of abuse as your ROOF! Go ahead and ask yourself if you are willing to go 'cheap' on a roof? Instead of paying for the 25 year roof, you decide to go cheap and go with the 15 year roof...You'll save a little in the short run (about 25%) but you will pay DOUBLE inside of 12 years! Now you have spent 75% MORE because you chose the cheap version instead of the best of the best. Floors are the same. My question is: Why are you refinishing the maple? Is there EXCESSIVE wear on it? Can you see raw wood? Is the finish crackling or splitting or peeling? Is this a PHYSICAL repair/replace or is it COSMETIC? Your current floor is timeless. Your inspiration photos are for white based floors over oak. You will never achieve the look with Maple without some SERIOUS investment of funds. As for the 'white' look, it is going out of fashion in a hurry (depending on where you live). The East and West Coasts of USA (and all of Europe) have gotten over the white look. They are trending towards 'light natural' colours...which is EXACTLY what you have. In 5-7 years I predict your expensive 'white' floors will be unfashionable/dated to "That's so 2017!" The colour you are looking at (as inspiration) will come in (over Maple) at $10/sf or so. Or at least it SHOULD. You can add the UVProtect by Loba with Bona (I'm 99% sure you can...it states it can be added to any water based finish). And then you pay for the Bona Traffic HD ($150 - $180/gallon) and then you pay for the NordicSeal (more money) and then you pay for the EXTRA WORK to do all of this. And that's assuming the maple ACCEPTS the colour. Maple HATES taking stain/colour! It goes blotchy and ugly. Worst case scenario it looks like your floor has a bad case of acne. Best case scenario it looks 'pale' and that's about it. Be VERY careful what you do with a colour that is already out of fashion in much of the 'trendy' parts of the USA. Floors are very expensive and are very disruptive to refinish.

I've had sand & finish in place hardwood, engineered/glued down hardwood, and now LVP in a guest house. While I LOVE the real hardwood over 3/4" subfloor best for the softer feel on my feet and rich look, I'm satisfied with the look and wear with the engineered hardwood we replaced it with. (when we went from family room only wood floor to whole house wood floors, we had to put in engineered floors (or thought I had to), as we didn't have space underneath the appliances for the additional 3/4" subfloor). We recently installed LVP (SPC) flooring and it's my least favorite. While it looks great in photos, it has a plastic look and feel. I wouldn't do it again personally. It's possible that I just chose the wrong LVP. For what it's worth, our current engineered hardwood floors have been through two floods. In each case, we had fans and heavy machinery in the house for 3 weeks pulling out water. Contrary to water mitigation folks, who recommended we replace the entire house floors, we never did and 95% of the flooded boards still look good as new. The other 5% have the surface finish peeling, but lucky for us, it's mostly against the baseboards and isn't too unsightly. I need to get it repaired some day, but haven't bothered to so far and it's been 4 years.