Inactive / Dormant buds? - Fiddle leaf ficus lyrata tree
Hello Friends!
I have a question regarding my fiddle leaf fig tree. I own 2 plants one of which I've had for 2 years in a bush form and second one I purchased this March (2018) as a tree form. When I bought it it was already pruned with no new branches but with tons of buds forming on on them so even though it didnt look too appealing in the beginning I was confident it will eventually grow into a nice full tree. This is how it looked in March right after purchase:
(Please note it did not stay in this corner , I moved it the next day into a brighter spot)
Six months went by and it started forming new branches growing very quickly - the only problem is only top buds turned into branches and the rest of them stayed exactly the same as they were in the beginning , not changing even a bit. So now the tree grew just one new branch per one old pruned branch so essentially the whole pruning did not make any difference as there's exactly the same amount of branches as there was before only now growing in weird directions :p
Here's how the tree looks now in September 2018:
It grew a ton and seems pretty happy where it is. I was just wondering if the fact that so many buds remain inactive (dormant?) is normal or is it a sign of something going wrong? And what would be solution to this if there's any? If the answer is I just need to be patient and wait few more years Im happy to do that I was just wondering if theres any way I can encourage those buds to grow somehow. I tried a little trick in June and made notches above few of the buds to see if it helps somehow but with no success. I dont think I'll be cutting or notching anything now as we are approaching fall where I live but if anyone has some tips or recommendations of what may help I would greately appreciate it.
For the reference , buds don't look dead or dry, here's them now:
Some of them are very big and looked very promising in the beginning the only problem is they stayed the exact same for six months and it seems like all the plants energy goes into lenghtening existing branches instead of forming any additional ones and they are slowly getting dangerously long :)
Also for the reference - I water the tree weekly and add plant food every second watering with half the strenght of fertilizer during growing season. It sits in front of a very bright big south facing window - not in direct light but close to it ( i tried to put my other fiddle closer to the window than that and it got burned so I guess this spot is optimal). The plant is healthy, new leaves are big and lush with no sign of stress. Here's it's position:
I know there's some very experienced experts here so I put my trust in wise people on this forum :)
Comments (6)
Agata Sobocińska
5 years ago
Isaio Shirataku
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoHi, from the pictures you posted, it doesn't look like those buds are alive and actually may not even be buds at all. FLF always grow new buds from the nodes also called auxiliary buds. They never in my experience grow out randomly from the trunk. General bud formation takes about 2-3 weeks time. If they are brown they are dead. Side shoots always will appear green, but the apical meristem has brownish reddish sheaths that give the appearance the meristem is dead when in fact it is not. If the sheath is dried out there's a possible it's dead. They should be slightly waxy and not dried out until the new leaf unfurls to full size. If your plant is lengthening it's branches and they are becoming spindly it's a sign it is not getting enough light! I grow my FLF's in full sun. Here's a pic of two branches that were originally buds.
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How to: Propagation of Ficus Lyrata by Leaf cutting.
Comments (38)That's not the only way to propagate actually. My parents own a microbiology laboratory. Plant tissue culture is a way to grow just about any kind of plant from just a singular plant cell, though the most commonly used type of cells in this process are meristematic tissue such as the root tip and axillary bud tips. All plants have this kind of tissue. To have such a narrow-minded field of thought is a detriment only to yourselves. Tissue culture is actually better anyway, so you don't have to destroy an entire bud and root tissue is always plentiful. It also has a higher success rate than when you just try to propagate at home. The tissue culture process can easily be replicated at home as long as a sterile environment is provided. All you really need is a medium to suspend the tissue culture in such as agar, in a temperature controlled environment. Though the suspension medium differs greatly from what kind of plant is being produced. Orchids, for example, require higher levels of malto-detrixin and banana powder to successfully grow. Since there's not much tissue culture done of Ficus lyrata, it would be necessary to find the right suspension medium that yields the highest rates of cell division....See MoreFicus lyrata, fiddle leaf fig tree
Comments (5)missjellyfish, generally, pruning side-shoots, suckers etc. will promote the growth of the terminal shoot(s). When the required height has been attained, the terminal shoot can be cut off. This will stimulate lower buds to grow. The canopy is developed by judiciously removing or cutting back shoots. Here are some images....See MoreFiddle Leaf Fig/Ficus Lyrata newbie
Comments (16)Hi, Sarah. The cultural issues most likely to cause wilting are over-watering, under-watering, high temps, and a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution. The later is usually accompanied by necrosis of leaf margins on lyrata, unless the high level of salts was due to a very recent fertilizing. If it wilted while the soil was still damp, your issue would probably be related to the effects of over-watering and/or the heat. Water and nutrient uptake is an energy driven process. It takes oxygen to burn (convert) the food (carbohydrates - from photosynthesis) into the energy that drives root metabolism. Too much water in the rhizosphere (root zone) means too little air means not enough O2 means the work of water uptake is compromised. The heat increases the rate of respiration increases water demand and exacerbates the issue. I would: Shade the pot to help keep roots cool if the plant has direct sun hitting it Use a wood dowel or bamboo skewer to test the soil, waiting to water until the soil is nearly but not quite dry. When soil is at first dry to the touch, there is still 10-15% additional water left that the plant can access - so a built-in margin for error. Flush the soil thoroughly the next time the plant needs watering by pouring a volume of water equal to the pot capacity up to 10 times, using room temp water; this, to rid the soil of accumulating salts. Then, fertilize the plant with a soluble fertilizer with a 3:1:2 NPK ratio. RATIO is different than NPK %s - ask if you'd like me to explain the difference. After flushing the soil, water on an as needed basis. Don't let the soil remain saturated for extended periods. I can also help you learn how to deal with soils that hold too much water, if you think that's an issue. I'll wait on your comments before I offer anything else. Al...See MoreFiddle leaf fig pruning for branching success! Ficus lyrata
Comments (2)Look forward to your updates - what a beautiful healthy plant!...See MoreAgata Sobocińska
5 years ago
lasweet92
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoI would put it closer to the window at other end of sofa. These guys love light, if the sun is bright and direct wean it into it by using the sheers. Tropical trees. Also, you can take the brace off and wiggle the tree as if its swaying in the breeze, it will strengthen the trunk. I think Al has suggested brushing the trunks to thicken them. The trees tend to grow straight and need prodding to shape them indoors. Pinch, prune, notch. I have a few dormant buds after chopping and am wondering the same thing. I know mine grew much more the brighter light it gets.
lasweet92
4 years ago
FrozeBudd_z3/4