You don't want anything to impede the exchange of gases in a container plant (we want oxygen to be able to get IN and CO2 to get OUT), nor the evaporation of excess moisture from the medium. Contrary to what most people seem to think, containerized plants benefit from ample watering....as long as the medium is fast draining and very porous. The act of drenching introduces oxygen to the whole root/soil system - a huge benefit to any plant grown within the confines of a pot. Worm castings are truly not a benefit to a container grown plant, either. A very small amount won't hurt, but there's really no need. Remember, container growing is an entirely different art/science than in-situ growing. We can't apply too many of the same principles to both, particular when it comes to the soil/root SYSTEMS. You might find some interesting information over in the Container Forum. The subject of mulching has been discussed many a time. (worm castings, too)

I would say hold back a little and sow in stronger natural light and longer day length. Little will be gained by sowing now under lights, and may easily result in inferior plants. Impatiens come in tropical to hardy - annual to perennial and sub-shrubs. A striking perennial one to look out for is the 'Congo Cockatoo' Impatiens niamniamensis. A garden bedding type is the 'Novette Series' which are fast growing perennials usually grown as annuals. There are many other series, varieties and cultivars grown annually from seed for summer use outdoors and most may be pot grown in cool conditions with maximum light. Another spectacular species with silvery foliage and purplish-red flowers is 'Marianiae' It is tropical and will require a temperature into the 70sF. There are countless cultivars within the group "New Guinea Hybrids" All should be good for indoor cultivation given a light spot but not in direct sunlight. They are perennial but often treat as annuals to obtain fresh, vigorous plants each year. Grow Impatiens in a rapid-draining medium and water copiously during the summer months. Never let the roots stand in water. If keeping over winter reduce watering to keep the soil just moist. When propagating be it seed or cuttings keep the temperature even; a fluctuating temperature is not good particularly at this time. My Website Peter

I’m starting to think there might be an insect issue however. One of my other cuttings has an inflo on it and has begun dropping buds like crazy all of a sudden :( They go from healthy looking to turning black and falling off within what seems like hours. I’ve lost 3 already this morning.

Esmeralda, They look to me like a type of: sunflower, thistle, nettle, etc., seedling, cultivated or wild, even possibly zinnia or dahlia seedlings. They may be some kind of squash family seedling: cucumber, zucchini, or melon. How they got into your fig pot could be any possibility, like: wind blown in, present in the potting mix before the fig was planted in the pot, accidentally or purposely dropped/ planted into the pot by an animal, especially squirrels, who knows? In my estimation, they are harmless, just pull them out as you find them if any more appear. If you are adventursome/curious, carefully pot a few up, and see what they turn out to be. If they turn out to be weeds, pitch them. Moses