Are you kidding me? I want modern high gloss doors too, but ALL of these cabinets are CRAP!!! They are all particleboard and MDF! No offense, but that is EXACTLY what Ikea is! At least Ikea prices it's cabinets at a rate that matches the lifetime they will last: 5-7 years. I LOVE St. Charles, but I imagine they cost well over $50,000. Anyone know for sure? I really want vintage metal cabs, but they just do not fit my kitchen. That's why I'm trying to go Mid-Mod in WOOD - NOT PARTICLEBOARD! The Ultracraft cost $17,000 a few years ago? Ikea costs $7,000 today for the same thing. Granted, their sizes suck (none of the turquoise glass doors I want fit my kitchen). For $17,000 you can buy wood cabinets from PA and order custom high-gloss doors from another company and still probably have the carcasses custom painted. After seeing these prices for particleboard, those plywood cabinets are actually looking like a bargain (though NOTHING compares to the solid wood cabs in my original kitchen). And all this "Green" marketing is B.S.! Particle board and MDF do not last - MDF disintegrates in water! Wood lasts. Having to dump and replace your kitchen every few years is as far from "green" as you can get! Nevermind all the toxic resins and glues used to make particleboard and MDF. FYI: If you truly want to go modern and are willing to pay $2,000 a cabinet (what these "lower end" ones average), then do yourself a favor and go with solid stainless steel - they'll last forever. It's mostly custom (outdoor kitchens), but many offer interior options with colorful non-stainless doors. St. Charles is powdercoated steel (you cannot paint / powdercoat stainless). Personally, because I know the costs of the raw materials and I can build, do everything myself, I know that ALL cabinets are a major rip-off - the cheap ones are CRAP and not worth the money / time to install something that won't last, and the high-end ones have exhorbitant markups (mostly sales/ design, less actual manufacturing) built-in that is well into the hundreds per hour. The only reason I don't want to build my own cabinets is because I don't have a dedicated woodshop and I've never worked with Blum glides (very technical) and I actually want my cabinets to function and last at least 50 years. Therefore I am looking into having my bases truly CUSTOM (to my exact specs) built and I'll probably build the uppers myself. For example, I need a custom 14-15" deep base 4-drawer cab for my dishes that is 24" wide and 39" high with 12" Blum Blumotion undermount full-extension soft-close glides, solid 3/4" maple dovetailed drawer sides, 1/2" plywood drawer bottoms. The 4 drawer boxes ((3)-8"hx21"wx12"d", (1)-3"hx21"wx12"d) should cost no more than $230-300 (that's high - I'm trying to find a boxmaker willing to do dovetails and the 1/2" bottoms). 3 solid maple (not plywood) 10" x 24" slab drawer fronts should cost about $60, and one 5" x 24" maple slab front should cost about $15. Then I need the cabinet made - I want 3/4" plywood sides and solid face frames - the material alone should cost no more than $100-150 (prices keep going up every time I check). That would be $405-525 materials cost - that includes the labor to make the drawer boxes with attached glides and thedrawer fronts. To that I'd add $200 for the labor to build the simple cabinet carcass and install the pre-made drawers and pre-made drawer fronts. That would be $100 per hour. (A real cabinet maker can make a 15"x24"x39" cabinet in an hour easily, then installing / aligning the drawers should take another hour. If it takes longer than that for a professional, they are a joke (read woodweb - many of them do face-frames in 10 minutes). Total MAX for a top-of-the-line ALL WOOD cabinet like this should be no more than $625-750. Then paint and hardware - that I'll do myself - .75 Liters of Fine Paints of Europe Hollandlac Brilliant high gloss $30 and primer $35. Plus sandpaper / brushes (have those) = $75. 4 Mid-Mod knobs ~ $40. All-in-all, the cabinet should come in well less than $1,000. Heck, at that rate, based on savings compared to the cabinets listed here, I can buy a good paint sprayer. Even if this was a full-depth 24" cabinet it would only cost about $150 more in materials (longer glides, longer cab sides and deeper drawer boxes - all other dimensions would be the same). It actually costs a lot more per square foot to build a small cabinet like I need, but I have no choice.

I believe that the OP is really asking about interior window trim, not window "frames", as was stated. Windows, themselves, are made from many materials, by many manufacturers and come in a gazillion profiles, depending on material(s) used for manufacture. Here's common terminology for interior window trim: When it comes to the design and construction of window trim, there are a variety of historic styles, such as this: The OP is asking a modern variations such as: or or even: As every architect and finish carpenter knows, this "simple" appearing, modern details are every bit as time consuming and expensive as the traditional approaches, since they take much more care and time in measuring, cutting and fitting the various materials, and accounting for the inaccuracies and often poor and often mis-aligned wall framing materials which are common in today's residential construction. Of course, anything is possible in construction if one is willing to throw enough money at it...

Eugenia, it is okay not to know this, but a common mistake I see all of the time: clients want to add finishing touches. That is just one step in the process and the last one. The beginning step of designing is deciding your goals both functionally and stylistically. They should work cohesively with the rest of your home. Then, a floor plan. Then, careful measuring to make sure you are choosing the right furniture and other elements. I hope that makes sense. Choosing the wrong items at the wrong time causes costly mistakes.

The image with two 24x36 is not quite it. Too small. I can't decide if three will be the right proportions. I'm assuming you're using hangers that have been left there, as the bottoms of the art are too low. You could put painter's tape in the finished size on the wall to get an idea of the scale. Taller? def wider, more square?