There are several problems here as I see it. First and foremost being the fact that someone let these out of the shop like this. That right there is very concerning. As LWO stated this attempt at a "Henerybuilt " look was done by a shop that is not capable of that level of work. I've done this kitchen a few times. You have to be well versed in all aspects of the trade to pull this off well. Mostly you have to care even if it cost you. As far as the defects most of what I see is glue over spray that was not properly cleaned off then showed up when a clear coat was applied. This banding was not done with a machine but by hand with contact cement spray. An edge bander doesn't leave that kind of glue behind or it would be pointless. This glue needed to be cleaned off with a solvent and sanded carefully. These are common problems with low-tech equipment and unskilled labor. There could also be some burn through of the veneer where it meets the banding which is where that is going to happen when you are trying to level out the face especially if what I suspect what was used was off the shelf pre laid-up walnut plywood veneer which is really thin. This also has to do with the dent and ding issue. The thin veneer but mostly the substrate it's bonded to. The way a company like Henerybuilt and the way I also do it is to use selected architectural veneer in raw bundle form and have it laid-up yourself. The quality and thickness of the veneer is much higher and you can request any substrate you want like Medex which is what I like to use. I wouldn't ever use the 1/8" wood banding (either does Henerybuilt) don't like to see a seam around the door. Just use the thicker edge banding 1.2mm and blend it in. Sorry none of this what should have been done helps you right now but the more you know the better you can make your case. The main issue is the glue and the clear coat. Never heard of catalyzed enamel unless you mean catalyzed varnish. Don't have a lot of experience in extreme temperatures (it's 80 today here in LA) but I know there can be all kinds of curing problems and the materials have a recommended range of use. Even here many people use equipment to heat the material and temp controlled rooms for a better finish. As far as a fix without knowing exactly what was done it's hard to say if anything can be done. Stripping off the finish and cleaning the glue if veneer isn't damaged then re-coating is a long shot. Making new doors is probably the way to go. I would just address the issue of the discoloration with them and see what they have to say about that and how they plan to correct it before I got into telling them how to do their job correctly. Let us know.

I realize that we live in the days of expecting to keep cabinets only 10 to 12 years - mostly due to style changes, but I really don't understand that since a good cabinet can last decades. I recently refinished my cabinets with all wood doors and face frames. They are now about 20 years old. They fit my home and are not taking up space in a landfill. Painted cabinets are usually MDF or MDF / wood combinations. They cannot be refinished to wood since there isn't much, but they can be repainted if they hold up. I would look for a sturdy cabinet that can last a long time, even if you do not intend to be in the house long. A potential buyer often can spot poor cabinetry

General Finish. Arm-R-Seal. Wipe-on. Oil urethane Data Sheet You could also use 100% Tung oil with proper drying time between coats. 100% Tung Oil

Hang tight! I'll send you some more pictures that weren't really "polished" enough to post online anywhere. We rely on customers to send pictures of the finished product, and most of the time (unfortunately) we never hear back! Many times when people DO send pictures too they might not be exactly "complete" with the remodel. It is what it is!