Love my angled plugmold which I have on my perimenter cabinets as well as island. I also love my Kichler Linear Lighting. It adds a soft and elegant ambiance. As far as being expensive, everything in my remodel was expensive. It's all about trade offs and priorities. Here is a link that might be useful: Angled Plugmold

You mean the breaker box? I have one that's in the house, too. I found a picture frame that's just a bit bigger than the box and the frame projects out, so when it's hanging on the wall, it completely covers the box. I added a poster with thin plexiglass. It's pretty big, so I wanted it to be lightweight and easy to move when we need to access the box. My second idea was to just completely trick out the box...a tassel pull on the ring, colored edging trim and giant letters spelling out "BREAKER." I decided that the idea was too tacky and weird even for me, so I went with the poster instead. Another idea...build a fake low profile decorative cabinet and frame it out around the outside edge of the breaker box. Something similar to a bathroom medicine cabinet, if that makes sense. You could even add a cork board or chalk board to the front, if that would be useful in the laundry room. If someone was smart, they would just make decorative doors for those things. They're usually in garages and basements where it doesn't really matter, but some of us end up with them in interior rooms, smack in the middle of a wall.

So you're somewhere that conduit is required everywhere? Chicago? I can't help you with the codes there, sorry. As for BX, those letters are sometimes used as a generic term for metal clad cable. However, it's a trademark (originally owned by Sprague). It refers to a particular brand, kind of the way Romex is sometimes used as a generic term for NM cable, even though that's a trademark too. The reason some folks get their backs up at BX is that it has a safety problem. With the original Sprague BX, which IIRC was in common use by the 1940s, the armor was used as the grounding conductor (equipment ground). That was a big mistake. As BX aged, the armor turns oxidized, and stopped making good contact with each other. The resistance of the ground increased drastically. When a ground fault happened, the armor could heat up red hot. Fires started this way. Today there are different metal clad cables available, such as MC. MC has an insulated copper ground wire included so that the armor is no longer needed or used for the grounding conductor. Whether these kinds of cable are allowed in your area, and under what circumstances, I don't know. I sure hope your electrician does. I'm still having some trouble figuring out what's happening in your photo, and matching your description to it. I don't see a 4 inch run of what you call "BX" anywhere. I do see what looks like a junction box toward the top right, and a second one beside it, but that's a lot more than 4 inches away from the box at the left. They look like some kind of flexible metal-clad cable is going to at least the left one. You seem to be saying that one of those is to be connected to 120v power, and the other is to carry the low voltage output of the LED power supply to the lights, yes? I'm guessing that these boxes are right under where you expect your upper cabinets to mount. If that's so, I don't understand the need for the second box. The power supply is going to be plugged into the receptacle under the cabinets, yes? So it'll be exposed under the cabinets anyway. Why not just run the LV wiring from it right up and then secure it along the underside of the cabinets? Why mess with armoring the LV wiring? Why put it inside the wall at all? Assuming your local codes don't prohibit that armored stuff for LV wiring, and as long at it's totally separate from the line voltage wiring, I guess it's OK. You can terminate it any way you like, as long as it's done safely. Watch out for sharp edges that might cut insulation; that's what those little red bushings are for. As I mentioned before, if you go to an electronics part supplier that serves hobbyists, you'll find lots of different sizes and shapes of plastic and aluminum project boxes for your low voltage wiring connections. BTW, your electrician isn't connecting your cabinet lighting receptacle to one of the countertop receptacle circuits, is he? That's not allowed. Just checking.

Now there I'm afraid I can't help you. I can suggest what might work here in the States, but I'm sure the rules are different where you live. When I go to Europe, I look at houses there. French people move out and they take the light fixtures with them! The cables hang out of the ceilings, with no boxes, even in recent installations. The wire colors are different. In an old house I saw an ancient switch hanging from a cable over the head of the bed, at just the right height that you could turn off the room lights after you're snuggled in for the night. Now, that's civilized. Main panels there look totally different from ours. Often they hang right out in the open, on kitchen and living room walls, with computerized meters beside them. A 60 amp main there is like 200 amps here. They might have 8 branch circuits, maybe 12. It's an electrical world I don't know. I'm kind of lost there, but I'm a geek, and I'm fascinated, and I want to learn more. I must be the only tourist who's at least as eager to check out the hardware and DIY stores as the museums. But I digress, sorry. I think Canada is probably closer to the US in its electrical practices and codes, but I just don't know. I hope that someone else here knows. I can only suggest that you head for the public library and do some reading. Visit job sites where houses are being built and wired, if they'll let you. Go see the jobbers where the electricians buy their materials, if they'll talk to you. Maybe there are websites aimed at Canadian electrical DIY. Getting back to a point I made before, maybe your code says that some voltage under X volts (48 volts here) is intrinsically safe, and you can use any junction box you want. Then you can put a power supply somewhere safe and run low voltage wiring to your LED lights. In that case you can probably (check the codes!) use anything reasonable for your junction boxes, such as plastic electronic project boxes. Sorry I can't be of more help.