I want to thank all of you for responding so quickly. The KD came up with the design, we found an independent contractor (MISTAKE) who agreed to work in conjunction with the KD and do the install. When this problem cropped up, he said we had hired him to hang cabinets and that is what he has done... We had called the KD to come look at the install. She said her installer would have caught this before it reached completion point and brought it to her attention. After reading your responses, we contacted the KD. She has agreed to fix the problems. She will order the additional pieces required fix the issues. I am happy that she agreed to do this. Thanks for posting the links, pictures and suggestions. It helped us when we talked things over with her. You guys are the best. I was reading all the posts and getting inspiration from the forum posts when we were looking at cabinets, granite, sinks, faucets, the whole enchilada. Our cabinets are Omega Brookside Cherry(nutmeg), oak hardwood floor golden/honey finish, faucet Delta Leland, granite Brazilian sand, backsplash will be almond travertine with slate and frosted glass accents. We used both knobs and pulls, Amerock Padma in pewter finish. Again I want to thank all of you for being my guides through this. I didn't ask, but read, and took my inspiration from your posts.

To fix the wobble, get a ceiling fan blade balancing kit. We used one on a fan years ago & it totally fixed the wobble. Any of the big box stores will have the balancing kits--look in the fan dept. There will be a display with various fan repair items like new switches, pull chains, balancing kits.... Should cost <$5. (The pull chains may be causing the ticking noise.) As to the gap, I would use some caulk backer rod in the worst of the gap & just caulk it. You can make backer rod out of most any type of foam--pool noodles, packaging foam, foam insulation board.... If you're more ambitious, the ceiling can be leveled out by floating drywall mud and feathering it out. But I'm not keen on drywall work & sure not keen on overhead drywall work. Then you gotta' worry about matching textures, etc. plus having to repaint. Caulking would be good enuff in my world. Use a paintable caulk (I like Big Stretch) and touch up the caulk with ceiling paint if you have some leftover from when the ceiling was last painted.

Cut a few small openings in the drywall big enough to get fingers in there so you can gently rock drywall to make it lose so it drops down to make it flush with the molding, Patch the holes. Before you cut holes, remove the trim from the recessed light, its looks like being close enough, and stick a flat bar between the housing and drywall and see if it can be done that way, if yes drop it down and put the trim back and if needed touch it up. In most cases, this is a very quick fix. Good luck

Everyone’s ceiling is uneven - everyone’s. It is Kitchen Cabinets 101 to scribe the middle piece of the crown molding so that it follows the uneven ceiling, but because it’s the middle piece, the rest of the crown molding disguises the uneveness of the scribed middle piece. One of our Kitchens Forum members Buehl described it better than me, so I am copying and pasting her explanation: A 3-piece crown molding consists of top & bottom molding all the same size throughout the kitchen. In the middle is flat "filler" piece that varies in height, depending on the ceiling height. By varying this filler piece's height, you accommodate the different ceiling heights w/o affecting the crown itself...this way the difference isn't noticeable. If you vary the top crown piece's height, it will be much more noticeable. In this pic the "Stock-S" piece is the "filler" piece...simply a flat piece of the same wood as the cabinets and finished the same as the cabinets. It is scribed to the ceiling and varies in its height in line with the variation in the ceiling.