I am a relative newbie at growing citrus myself, so take my comments with a large grain of salt. But, they are based on what I have either experienced myself or read about, mostly on this forum. As someone, who grows citrus trees in pots and moves them indoors for the winter, I thought Id share what little I know. Some of this overlaps what jean001 wrote, but I was on a roll, so just kept typing. 1) Leaf color change and leaf drop. Change of leaf color and dropping leaves could be the result of: a) Lack of key nutrients. Most people use some form of fertilizer for acid-loving plants, like Miracid, or, if you are lucky enough to find it, one specific for citrus. Also, many people supplement with foliar sprays that contain micronutrients, like Superthrive, fish emulsion, Spray-N-Grow, etc. Don't fertilize too frequently and many people dilute the fertilizer relative to the label instructions. Many also use a time release fertilizer, like Osmocote, but at a lower concentration than on the label. Potted plants tend to lose fertilizer more quickly, since it washes out, but they can also accumulate residue salts in the pot, which can be seen as a white crust on the surface of the soil. Potted citrus benefit from routine flushing of the pots with lots of clean water. In winter indoors they need even less fertilizer and many stop fertilizing completely until the trees go back outside. It depends on whether or not you see any growth that would justify fertilizing. b) Too much fertilizer. You can over fertilize citrus, but I don't know how that is evidenced by the plant, since I try to stay on the lean side with fertilizer. I suspect you would see the leaves brown or Âburn before they dropped. c) Pot size: If citrus trees are too small for the pot, then the roots can rot, because the soil around the roots stays wet, even if it appears to be dry at the edge. General sizing recommendations I have read are: one-year old plants: 8 -12 inch pot, two year old plants: 10  14 inch pot. It depends more on the condition of the plants than on their specific age, since some grow faster than others and different nurseries provide trees of different sizes for the same reported age. Personally, I like my citrus trees (all true dwarf) to get a little root-bound, since I think it minimizes the risk of root rot, although you have to be careful to water more frequently. I pull slowly and steadily on the trunk, and if most of the soil in the pot does not lift out with the roots, I do not transplant that tree into a larger pot. Probably stunts the growth of my trees a little, but thatÂs okay, since they have to be moved in and out of the house. d) Change of location: It is drier with less light inside and generally a more stressful environment for all plants, but especially for those that have been kept outside all summer. Some react by dropping leaves. If this happens, you should see new leaves and/or stems sprouting from just about every old leaf junction within a month. Some people mist their indoor citrus or keep them on trays of pebbles to raise humidity. Personally, I donÂt, more because I am lazy than for any other reason, and my trees did not mind last winter. You will definitely need to water less than when they are outside. If the plants are not getting enough direct sun each day (and they need several hours), you may need to supplement with artificial lighting. 2) Ants Ants are usually a sign of scale, since they Âgrow the scale on plants to harvest the sticky sweet Âhoneydew the scale releases. Scale is usually on the undersides of leaves and can be hard to spot initially, since it will be small and green, eventually hardening into larger, brownish ÂscalesÂ, hence the name. Eradication of scale can be done by washing with soapy water, spraying hard with jets of water, using a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol, scraping with your fingernail, spraying with horticultural oil, which is usually Neem oil, or just giving up and spraying with a pyrethrin-based insecticide, which is non-systemic and does not leave a residue. Watch for re-infestation, since it is hard to get them all the first few times. If you have ants living in the soil of the pot, they will probably keep re-infecting the tree. In my opinion, you need to eliminate the ants completely; do not co-habit with them. Either use a pyrethrin-based soil drench and afterward rinse the soil really well, or else put an ant bait station on the soil and let them bring it back into the colony to kill it. Most bait station contents are rated as non-toxic to mammals, but you need to consider that some will be brought into the soil, so rinse it well after the ants are gone. Since you donÂt have any fruit and are unlikely to have any set in the near term, you donÂt need to worry about residues in the fruit. 3) No growth Citrus trees go through stages of growth and rest. And, they may be recovering from the transition from outside to inside. If they are healthy, they will eventually start sending out new growth. Be sure not to overwater during this time, since, with few leaves, they are not transpiring much water and they can easily get root rot. 4) Dropped fruit Most fruit is not kept by the tree to mature, because it would overstress the tree. This is especially true for young trees and even more so for citrus in containers. The recommendations I have read are not to even let citrus set fruit if less than two-years old, so more energy can go into developing strong roots and lots of canopy growth. You are probably just seeing the normal response of a young tree. Hope all of this helps a little. narcnh

Yes. When using Firefox (the one I just updated to), if I type http://www.google.com I now get directed to igoogle...always. In my version of Firefox (3.6.17) it is no longer possible to get the the plain old, cleaner-looking Google.com homepage anymore. Raven, the links you sent did not help to remedy this. Even the mentioned http://www.google.com/ncr sends me to the same page, iGoogle (personalizable page). I guess that's how it has to be with this version of Firefox. On the other hand, IE still let's me go to http://www.google.com. Although I'm not a Mac user, I read a thread on a Mac forum that mentions this iGoogle redirect as far back as 2005.

What John said about you only need to pollinate if you want seeds is true enough to be a general rule. One exception is minneola tangelo. Those trees don't like to produce reliably without pollenation. Even with it they still sometimes don't want to produce reliably. It's such a commercial problem that universities have done studies trying to understand why it's an exception to the rule.

Yes. . Photos, which I assume, belong to those who pay to advertise their business and have nothing to do with your specific search. What I notice is when I am searching I get local listings. I know one gal who told me she pays houzz to get her business noticed…advertising fee. I have no problem with that, but I don’t want to see gardens when I am looking for a specific color on walls. I have been on houzz for years. I love it, but as it grew it changed. Early years you could post a dilemma and also post on “other”. I met some great friends, two of whom I am still very close. We called ourselves “OLLDS”... old ladies love design. Emily was the moderator and she, frequently, would chime in. I don’t see anyone like her now. It is like you are on your own. She added a lot and refereed many confrontations. Miss that “family” feel, but, hey, houzz is a business.