Have a "Shell" Built Inexpensively and go from there?
cbrass86
5 years ago
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Virgil Carter Fine Art
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agocbrass86
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Should my shell beans have color?
Comments (5)If the beans are still white, they are not yet fully ripe. The red-speckled shelly beans (such as "Lina Cisco's") tend to develop red streaks on the pods as they ripen. These streaks darken as the seeds within approach maturity. When the pods begin to shrivel - which is the prime shelly stage - some of these streaks become purplish, and the pod will be noticeably limp just below the stem. The beans will have the best color at that stage. As Farmerdilla mentioned, that stage does not last long. To get the best-colored beans requires frequent picking; I would recommend at least ever other day, if not daily. However, some prefer the mix of green (or white) and color; in which case, for bush beans such as "Lina Cisco's", you would only pick them once or twice, and perhaps let some go for dry seed. The shellies will usually be a pale version of the dry seed, so the darker the color in the dry seed, the more color will be retained as shellies. (Some will turn gray or white regardless of their markings.) Black and the near-black maroons & blues produce some of the prettiest shellies. The shellies below (from a Hungarian bush bean) all have dark maroon-black markings when dry, so they retain much of their color even after cooking. "Giant Red Tarka"...See MoreIs there a place to go in Portland for inexpensive trees???
Comments (5)Always inspect for quality and pay only for healthy stock. Starved, blighted, rootbound etc. specimens do not amount to good value. A plant in poor condition at planting time may continue to dwindle away and eventually die rather than bounce back. Installation of a diseased plant may result in pathogens infesting the planting site. In addition to the ubiquitous deformed (bound, kinked, j-rooted...) roots pandemic even among otherwise healthy nursery stock root rot is common here, as is foliage mildew of rhododendrons. Many retail lots are operated by people loathe to spend any money on upkeep; I am sure they would love to not even have to water if they could get away with it - and places like Home Depot (and too many independent operators) actually sometimes appear to be making the attempt....See MoreHelp with inexpensive DIY paludarium ideas???
Comments (20)Yes, swords are tolerant of lower light levels. My husband used to grow them in his planted discus tank, and they did very well. I have no experience with bacopa, so i can't comment on that, other than that I thought i read once they needed med-high light levels. I can't say for sure though. You need to replace the bulbs every 6 months because you will have them on for about 12-14 hours every day. That is way beyond what most people use them for (just as bulbs in lamps), and after about 6 months, they will loose most of their effective light output. Of course it still looks just fine to the human eye, but your plants will really suffer. Plants need a LOT of light, much more than we need just to see normally, so you really can't go by how bright a light 'looks' to you. Another factor is that the bulbs tend to burn out the blue end of the spectrum first, and blue light is very important to plants. The human eye, however, can't see blue light very well (we're best suited to seeing yellow light, which is not that helpful to plants), so again, you can't tell how good a bulb is for your plants just by looking at it. As for buying on eBay, I have no idea. I've never really looked at bulbs there. I have bought some things on eBay, and I've learned to be very, very careful. Ask the seller lots of specific questions. You can get great deals, but you can also get ripped off big time. Compact fluo's are a little confusing, because a seller could say that they are selling 75 watt bulbs. Now does this mean they use 75 watts, or that they output light equivalent to a 75 watt incandescent bulb? If the former, then they would be putting out way more light, and would be great for your terrarium. If the latter, then they are probably more like a 20 W bulb (energy usage), and you would need more of them to light your terr. sufficiently. To give you a general idea of how much light you'll need, I have an 85 gallon tank. It is 48"w x 18"d x 22"h. I have three bulbs (with an excellent reflector, I might add. Makes a big difference) that total about 80 W in their energy usage. They output the equivalent (as compared to incandescent bulbs) of 240 W (I think). The important thing is the lumens though. That is the actual light output. And I can't remember how many lumens they put out right now. I know I saved a box, but I can't find it right now, so I'll try to find it later and tell you. You really need to get a good reflector though, because otherwise you are going to loose half of your light (the topside of the bulbs, that faces away from your terrarium). Since your tank is about twice the size of mine, I would double the amount of light I have, and then add some extra, because of your increased depth. You will be able to tell if you have enough light by the way your plants grow. If they grow nice and compact, retain good leaf colour in variegated and coloured plants, and if some green-leaved plants get a nice reddish tinge to them, then you have plenty of light, and that's great! If colours fade and plants appear to be stretching towards the light, you need to add more. Also, if you grow nepenthes, the pitchers will get better colour in higher light. Don't really worry about having too much light, because it is very hard to burn plants with fluo's. They would have to actually touch the bulb, or be suddenly put directly under one after having been growing in very shady conditions for a long time. Oh yeah, I will be adding another bulb to my light hood this weekend. So based on the number of bulbs alone, you will need about 10 (of the average HD kind). If you can find higher watt bulbs on eBay, then you'll need fewer of them. And make sure you don't replace all the bulbs at once, because that can also shock and burn some of your plants. Stagger them. Since you'd have about 10 bulbs, you'll be replacing about 1 bulb a month. I always write at the base of a bulb when it needs replacing. Otherwise you just can't keep track of them all, and some could be a year old before you get around to replacing them....See MoreDoes the coping go over the area where gunite shell was formed?
Comments (4)pooldreamer, It may depend on the type easement. Normal fence setbacks are usually measured to the waterline. Some utility easements are measured to the back of the bond beam. Allow 1' measurement from the back of the beam to the water. I've also had stipulated measurements to the actual steel placed in the pool. Good idea to call the local building department for clarity or whoever provides the inspections....See MoreUser
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
5 years agoMrs Pete
5 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
5 years agoUser
5 years agoSuru
5 years agoStephanie Chatel
5 years agoUser
5 years agochisue
5 years agoAlyssa Mintus
5 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
5 years agogalore2112
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5 years ago
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