Need help with new growth on rose leaves
patty57
5 years ago
This is happening on a 3 yo Marianne who has been perfectly clean all season so far. I saw aphids on these new canes about 3 weeks ago, so I spayed with a soap mixture which seemed to get rid of them then. The new canes still grow and the leaves continue to show signs of underdevelopment. In the first picture, the leaves are not looking health directly under the second pictures's new canes. I may spary with my Bayer product for fungus. No bugs on backside of leaves.
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Help - curling leaves on new growth
Comments (11)Hi, I live in Raleigh,NC, it is zone 7b, very humid,a lot of bugs and diseases.This particular bed is in a back yard next to the porch, 12 feet away from a shadow box fence. But there are pine trees behind a fence, and roses don't get morning sun up till 1p.m. Nothing grows next to theme, only lemon grass as a ground cover. I do not use weed killer, I pull them by hand, and I do not even fertilise back yard (grass ) because we have dogs. I spray roses every other weekend for bugs and disease. This is something different, I decided to take soil test, I have not done it for e few years already. I did one thing differently to these roses this spring; I used compost tea earlier in the spring. Is it to concentrated ? But I used it on another ones, they are OK ....See MoreNew rose growth on Old Garden Roses?
Comments (2)Most European OGRs bloom on old wood -- even many of those which repeat. So what happens is that new canes (thick shoots from the base) will grow this year, and next year will bloom on laterals on last year's canes. After the first flush, if you cut back the laterals on last year's shoots, they'll bloom again (if the rose repeats). Basically, they bloom on new shoots growing from last year's canes. This is the case for most of the long-caned Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals. Some of those with an extra dose of China or Tea will bloom on new shoots the same year, but 'Zephirine Drouhin' isn't one of those. So if this rose is new for you, don't expect much in the way of blooms the first year -- sometimes not much the second year, either. The rose first needs to grow its layer of canes which will mature and then flowerHybrid Teas and Floribundas have heavier doeses of China-derived repeat-blooming genes, and so they will bloom on new shoots their first year (hence their being able to take hard-pruning in Spring and still flower that same year). :-) ~Christopher...See MoreBare Root Roses -How much growth is too much for a new rose?
Comments (4)I think it's the wax on the canes, not the tiny buds you see there that caused the problem. The cheaper growers wax canes so that they stay green on store shelves. I've never had a waxed cane do well even where I am (and in Coastal Cal I'm in a much cooler zone than Arizona). The buds were fine -- leave them on. But ditch the waxed cane bareroots, unless you can imagine the plant without those particular waxed canes and still see a decent plant worth buying. Some bareroots are waxed only at the tops, and those ones are usually ok, because the bottom of the cane is all you need. And by the way, I've tried everything from fingernails to credit cards to hiar driers to get that wax off before hot weather burns the cambium layer of the canes -- nothing seems to help those canes to survive. They all die anyway....See MoreI need Help planting a cutting that has leaves and new growth
Comments (2)You always want to remove all the leaves from a fresh cutting so they don't draw all the moisture out of the body of the cutting. It's going to need that sap to grow roots. These are some useful things I've learned in rooting plumeria cuttings: 1. Root in the growing season. Spring is best but summer works, too. 2. Water the mother plumeria tree well the day before cutting. (If it's a cutting from someone else's tree, the healthier it is the more likely it is to root.) 3. Callus the cutting at least a week. In other words, let the cut end dry out and harden. (All leaves should be removed immediately after cutting.) 4. Use a clear container for rooting, then you can actually see those roots! 5. Coir and perlite seem to be the materials least likely to cause rot. 6. Put the cutting in shade outside. The clear container will create sunburn if not in shade. Water only once, when you put the cutting in the container. 8. Forget it exists for the next two months. Seriously, FORGET it! Don't touch it, don't move it, don't water it. (Rain won't hurt it in my experience, but tap water is another story.) Hopefully after 1-2 months the leaves will begin growing back and you'll know the rooting process has begun....See More
patty57
5 years ago
Patty W. zone 5a Illinois
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agopatty57 thanked Patty W. zone 5a Illinoispatty57
5 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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