Hi I finally got my key a couple of days ago. So yes the plan I posted is a mirror image. I forgot that there is a door to the closet. I wonder if I close up the door, and move the door next to the toilet bowl, and remove the door for the toilet bowl, if that will work. But it might be weird to have the entrance to the closet next to the toilet. I got some better measurements. The length of the tub is 62". But there is 2 inches of wall on one side of the tub, which I think is hollow. I don't know why it isn't flush with the wall where the doors to the closet and toilet are. The width of the tub from the wall backing is 41". From that same wall to the side of the vanity is 58". To the side of the cabinet is 59". I am tempted now to put a 59" x 32" tub (or maybe a 60"!?) next to the vanity (along the same wall), and I will have 32" to work with for a wall in shower on the doors side? Or any suggestion would be good. Few days ago, I came up with this: From forums But I think this is going to cost big time, involing moving the toilet, and half of the vanity, redoing the floor, wall,etc. And I don't know if the entrance to the closet would be too small (3 feet). By the way, I don't know how the DWV plumbing is run. Any thing I need to look for?

I'm not a shower/plumbing/tiling expert, so take my information as such. Please consider doing searches in this forum (search box at the bottom of the forum pages) for curbless shower and shower tile size. It has been discussed multiple times and there is some great information out there. Depending on the type of drain and the layout of the tile, smaller tiles may be required to accommodate appropriate slope of the shower floor for drainage. You definitely do not want a flat (or concave) area where the water sits. The whole shower area must slope to the drain. Also, as gina_w points out, smaller tiles provide better grip. That's not to say it can't be done ever, but it has to be done right in order to make certain there is proper drainage and that the flooring isn't too slippery. You must have a certain amount of height between the drain and the "edge" of the wet space. If a drain backs up some, you want a little room for error rather than having water flow out of the waterproofed area. I believe this is building code and certainly the safe/smart thing to do. Typically this is done with a curb. If you want curbless, you must have all of the space sloped to the drain. Do a search in the forum on curbless showers and you'll find a lot more information. A friend recently remodeled her bathroom and opted for curbless. Because of this, the whole room is sloped and she now has an increase in flooring height as she enters the bathroom. Alternatively sometimes joists can be carved out to allow this without transitioning the floors, but someone more knowledgeable than me would have to explain how/when this can be done.

First of all congratulation for your new bathroom. I think that the vanity and the granite on the top are looking great and the price is also very reasonable. I also want to remodel mine. Could you give me the overall cost of making it and batthtub refinishing of which estimated time period.

Contractors do not design. They build. You need an actual K&B designer. You have a very restrictive space to get all that you want without turning it into a wet room. You, and your husband especially, need to educate yourself on modern waterproofing systems and how a wet room is properly created. The Schluter system will offer a lifetime warranty if their products are used from start to finish, including their thinset. Look at their YouTube channel. And don’t be so sure that your choice tractor can actually do this properly. Especially if he hasn’t had the wetroom and waterproofing conversation with you. Read below, and have a tough conversation with him on all points raised. https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer